Alignment Help Thread

[Scourage]

I've been keeping an eye on the suggested settings with a 1" drop, but how does changing tread width effect things? Wider tires obviously

[Info@PeddersUSA.com]

Originally Posted by Scourage

I've been keeping an eye on the suggested settings with a 1" drop, but how does changing tread width effect things? Wider tires obviously

does not actually affect the alignment that much but it can change the way the car handles. I.E. a split configured tire might look great, but the handling is reduced as compaired to having a oversized tires front and rear being equal.

What tires/tire size were you thinking of?

mike
dms

[Hotchkis]

We have worked on quite a few 5th Gens at our R&D center here in California, as well as on-site at Willow Springs during several track tests. With our Hotchkis springs and OE alignment capabilities, the vehicle can adjust camber from -0.4° to -2.6° for the front and -0.7° to -1.8° for the rear. No need to buy a kit or anything like that. For your situation where tire wear is important on a street driven car, we suggest the following alignment specs:

Front:
Camber: -0.75° to -1°
Toe: 1/16” total toe in

Rear:
Camber: -0.8°
Toe: 3/16” total toe in

Hope this helps!

[caverman]

Originally Posted by Hotchkis

We have worked on quite a few 5th Gens at our R&D center here in California, as well as on-site at Willow Springs during several track tests. With our Hotchkis springs and OE alignment capabilities, the vehicle can adjust camber from -0.4° to -2.6° for the front and -0.7° to -1.8° for the rear. No need to buy a kit or anything like that. For your situation where tire wear is important on a street driven car, we suggest the following alignment specs:

Front:
Camber: -0.75° to -1°
Toe: 1/16” total toe in

Rear:
Camber: -0.8°
Toe: 3/16” total toe in

Hope this helps!

Thanks.....

I have another question for you. One of the Pedders guys suggested the following about loosing the bolts, driving around slowly, and then re-tighten before alignment. It definately sounds logical....should I do this for the Hotchkis springs as well. Also, I'm assuming I won't need to cut the bumpstops?

The most important step in installing lowering coils is to time the OE rotational bushes to the new ride height. EVERY control arm bolt must be loose: front LCA, front radius arm, rear toe, trailing, inner lower... With the bolts loose drive the Camaro SLOWY around the lot and on to the alignment rack rails. With the weightbof the car on the wheels tighten all the bolts. The bushes are now timed to your new ride height. This means your second set of springs the bushes are now working with your new Peddes lowering coils.

[Bruce@raymondsperformance]

It realy doesn't matter with who or how you lower your car,Loosing the control arm pivot bolts and retightening them with the wieght on the tires should be done.This is called timing the bushings,if not done the ride can be slightly stiffer and will cause the bushings to fail premature.This applies to the factory rubber bushings.Most aftermarket bushings piviot by design unlike the factory bushings.

[caverman]

Originally Posted by raymo1

It realy doesn't matter with who or how you lower your car,Loosing the control arm pivot bolts and retightening them with the wieght on the tires should be done.This is called timing the bushings,if not done the ride can be slightly stiffer and will cause the bushings to fail premature.This applies to the factory rubber bushings.Most aftermarket bushings piviot by design unlike the factory bushings.

Thanks....it makes sense to do this.

By chance does anyone have a pic of the Control Arm Pivot bolts and any of the other bolt locations that should be loosened before alignment? I'm going to have the Alignment guy do it but since I don't know 100% which bolts need to be loosened I would like to see a pic so that I have a clue as I watch what he losens.

[Info@PeddersUSA.com]

Originally Posted by caverman

Thanks....it makes sense to do this.

By chance does anyone have a pic of the Control Arm Pivot bolts and any of the other bolt locations that should be loosened before alignment? I'm going to have the Alignment guy do it but since I don't know 100% which bolts need to be loosened I would like to see a pic so that I have a clue as I watch what he losens.

With the exception of the cradle bushings, if there is a bushing on it, you should loosen it. The biggest culpret is the upper rear control arm bushing, which is, of course, the hardest to get to.

mike
dms

[caverman]

Originally Posted by dms

With the exception of the cradle bushings, if there is a bushing on it, you should loosen it. The biggest culpret is the upper rear control arm bushing, which is, of course, the hardest to get to.

mike
dms

Ok....one more question on this. Does anyone know if the bolts need to be re-torqued to a specific number? Or...just have them get it as tight as they can and then re-check in a week or so?

[Info@PeddersUSA.com]

Originally Posted by caverman

Ok....one more question on this. Does anyone know if the bolts need to be re-torqued to a specific number? Or...just have them get it as tight as they can and then re-check in a week or so?

The predictable response will be all bolts need to be torqued to GM specs, and also review the 1 time bolt/nut policy by GM

mike
dms

[caverman]

Originally Posted by dms

The predictable response will be all bolts need to be torqued to GM specs, and also review the 1 time bolt/nut policy by GM

mike
dms

Anyone know how I can find out what the GM torque specs should be on the different bolts?

[Info@PeddersUSA.com]

You need to confirm these torque measurements.

thanks
mike
dms

[Scourage]

Originally Posted by dms

does not actually affect the alignment that much but it can change the way the car handles. I.E. a split configured tire might look great, but the handling is reduced as compaired to having a oversized tires front and rear being equal.

What tires/tire size were you thinking of?

mike
dms

Took it to the dealer today for an alignment, 1" drop, 275/40 Pirelli's up front, 315/35 Nitti Invo's on the rear.
Gave them the recommendations from the site, street 75%/track 25% is what I was shooting for.
Front;
Camber -1.4
Caster 8.0
Toe 1/16" in

Rear;
Camber -0.9
Toe 1/16" in

When I picked it up, I see they got Camber and Toe very close to what I wanted, but Caster on the front is 6.0 with a note on the invoice saying caster is not adjustable. I thought that was just rear only on the non-adjustable caster.

Appreciate any input and whether I need to clarify the camber issue with the dealer.

[Info@PeddersUSA.com]

Originally Posted by Scourage

Took it to the dealer today for an alignment, 1" drop, 275/40 Pirelli's up front, 315/35 Nitti Invo's on the rear.
Gave them the recommendations from the site, street 75%/track 25% is what I was shooting for.
Front;
Camber -1.4
Caster 8.0
Toe 1/16" in

Rear;
Camber -0.9
Toe 1/16" in

When I picked it up, I see they got Camber and Toe very close to what I wanted, but Caster on the front is 6.0 with a note on the invoice saying caster is not adjustable. I thought that was just rear only on the non-adjustable caster.

Appreciate any input and whether I need to clarify the camber issue with the dealer.

Caster is not adjustable on the front. But Pedders makes an eccentric that will make it adjustable and will add 1.0 to 1.25 degrees caster. It does require slotting the hole which will take about .5 to 1.0 hours to complete

Reducing your rear camber to 50% of the front will reduce your plowing when driven very aggressively. Also taking the front toe to .1 degrees toe out each wheel will make a positive affect as well.

There is a signficant thread or 2 on the caster eccentrics.

mike
dms

[Scourage]

Guess I missed that one. I've seen the threads on the eccentrics and was waiting to see what I could get done with the alignment first.
I know it feels a lot better than it did before the alignment.
I may have upset a few neighbors as I was driving around the round-about just down the road.

Looking at hitting the track for the first time this weekend.