HPDE mods

[toehead93]

I had no troubles with the auto downshifting, my car was smooth. Up-shifts worried me in some locations at Sebring and Daytonoa club courses because I had no choice but to shift on a curve all out at over 80-90mph and my trans tune made the shifts very crisp which was uncomfortable for me. The trans tune kept the downshift perimeters stock and made the up-shifts short and tight.

Your hands should be at 3:00-9:00 so the paddles are always right at your fingertips, the only time you won't have your hands there is when you are crossing them over for a tight turn but you also should not be shifting at this time so it is no issue. I'd much rather have my hands on the wheel 100% instead of needing to remove one to shift but with a M6 we have too, if you have the choice take advantage of it.

Since you have a 2010 after brakes I would recommend eventually getting sway bars to help get rid of the understeer. You can get the newer LCAs (lower control arms) for cheap. I priced out everything needed to convert to ZL1 sways front and back for $425 when I had my 2010 SS.

[Norm Peterson]

Originally Posted by toehead93

I had no troubles with the auto downshifting, my car was smooth. Up-shifts worried me in some locations at Sebring and Daytonoa club courses because I had no choice but to shift on a curve all out at over 80-90mph and my trans tune made the shifts very crisp which was uncomfortable for me. The trans tune kept the downshift perimeters stock and made the up-shifts short and tight.

Right there is one of the ways where a tune that was optimized for the drag strip and/or greater response on the street gets in the way under cornering-heavy driving. It would be well worth getting a separate transmission tune with somewhat softer upshifts for track day driving. Really nice would be if the upshift quality could be tied to lateral g's as measured through Stabilitrak's yaw sensing, soft engagement in the corners but still firm in a straight line.


Norm

[ZWA SS]

I may look into retuning trans. I didn't like the way it shifted during track use.

[toehead93]

Originally Posted by Norm Peterson

Right there is one of the ways where a tune that was optimized for the drag strip and/or greater response on the street gets in the way under cornering-heavy driving. It would be well worth getting a separate transmission tune with somewhat softer upshifts for track day driving. Really nice would be if the upshift quality could be tied to lateral g's as measured through Stabilitrak's yaw sensing, soft engagement in the corners but still firm in a straight line.


Norm

I was going to to just that along with suspension mods but waited for a 1LE instead. ZWA, I would definitely look into that for $100.

[SPCBA]

Ok another series of mods. Things to make you comfortable while driving. Proper helmet, seat placement, and hand placement.

I have a snell 2010 full faced. My seat and wheel placement is so i can get the best arm angle. Hands are gripping the wheel above the paddles so fingers can shift. No death grips either. Make sure you get belt off your neck. Adjust mirrors to new seat placement (you dont need to look at your car).

[elbob]

Originally Posted by SPCBA

(you dont need to look at your car).

But its so pretty

[boltvette]

Look into a set of Angel Pads. They will allow you to use the steering wheel to point the car and not as a device to help you keep your butt in your seat. Scott at Hallett should have a set.

[ZWA SS]

What is a beginner tire that I could swap for the track days?
Maybe a set of 1le takeoffs, Goodyears.

When you swap to track pad, do you use it on the factory rotor?
I always turn the rotors whenever I've changed pads.

[Norm Peterson]

I like that idea of using 1LE take-offs, assuming that you get the wheels as well as the tires. But if all you get is the tires, you'll be looking for wheels significantly wider than 8" & 9". 10" would be the minimum width I'd ever suggest for open-tracking on 285/35 tires.

Invest in a separate set of rotors for your track pads and keep each rotor with its pair of pads together when they're off the car. For you, it'll be less work (no turning until new pad time) and you won't be machining the pad transfer layer off either (not to mention you'll get a little more life out of the rotors by letting the pads do all of the rotor wear).


Supposedly the various Carbotech pads are similar enough that you can just swap the pads without touching the rotors. Supposedly.


Norm

[ZWA SS]

Thanks Norm. That's what I was thinking brake wise..

[SPCBA]

beginner tires? would just be any summer performance that gives feedback (noise)...popular right now is the Michelin. expensive stuff...

i dont turn rotors with pad replace....just steelwool/sand paper off the old pad. for what its worth Justice Pete says let the pad do the bedding on track haha I do have a seperate set of complete brake system for track tho...

[Norm Peterson]

I doubt you can get track pads hot enough on the street to get them properly bedded. Not without serious risk of getting arrested and a subsequent need for bail money anyway. Let your first track session take care of this and give everything a good cooldown before pulling into your paddock space. No P-brake, please.


Norm

[ApexedSS]

Hawk HPS seems to be garbage at the track so thats out...
I ran 4 track days on stock pads and now they're done. What type of track your on makes a big difference. Im fine with a little squeak, just nothing ear piercing race car loud that is going to make people stare at me stopping up to a red light.

So what is a good pad for daily driving, with sprinted canyons and 2-3 track days a year? Dont want to mess with swapping pads at the track?

[jessrayo]

Originally Posted by ApexedSS

Hawk HPS seems to be garbage at the track so thats out...
I ran 4 track days on stock pads and now they're done. What type of track your on makes a big difference. Im fine with a little squeak, just nothing ear piercing race car loud that is going to make people stare at me stopping up to a red light.

So what is a good pad for daily driving, with sprinted canyons and 2-3 track days a year? Dont want to mess with swapping pads at the track?

I like the Porterfields, They were recommended to me when I was tracking a CTS-V. If the temp is just right they squeak.. Most of the time I don't notice. They are awesome track pads and work at any temp. I like the idea that my brakes work just as well on the street as they do on the track. Never fade...ever.