Brakes not working after sitting over a year.......

[PQ]

Originally Posted by TommyTheCat

I think the bigger cam is definitely going to be causing the vacuum problem just because the car has been supercharged.

Get a vacuum pump or power steering assisted brakes instead of vacuum assisted... if there is a kit. I completely forgot your car is SC

After the tune I'll check out the electric pump or other.

[PQ]

Originally Posted by Mr Twisty

How many separate vac lines come off the S/C? Have you plugged them then checked vac?

There are 4 vac lines. Rear barb for the BAP, brake booster, PCV and evap.

[motorhead]

You have a maggie right? Is the bypass opening all the way with no throttle Input? you could remove the rear blower belt, start the car and idol only to see if the vacuum is higher without the supercharger. If not, I would say it's the type of cam you have if you have no other vacuum leaks.

[thahemp]

Originally Posted by PQ

Ok, this coastdown thing. What is it? Could it be the reason that it still tends to want to die after I back up as I take it out of reverse and go to drive?

That is likely timing related. Your car uses 3 tables generally speaking to determine spark timing. High octane for when your foot is on the gas, coastdown for when your foot is off the gas but you're still rolling, and idle when your foot is off the gas and you're sitting still. A lot of problems arise from not blending these tables properly. Since you can jump back and forth between them, they need to transition smoothly so you don't have huge jumps in spark advance when you let off the gas or get on the gas. There are also tons of modifier tables, but they are mainly to help with other things like IAT, ECT, bad gas, idle correction, knock, etc..

What you're describing is essentially what CFD and I were talking about. On my car when I jump from reverse to going forward... I disconnect the driveline with the clutch. Mine doesn't need as much timing because it's unloaded. Yours still has to push some load. At least this is what we were theorizing haha. Like I said.. I haven't ever hooked up to an auto car and looked at the tune differences.

[CFD]

Originally Posted by thahemp

That is likely timing related. Your car uses 3 tables geoally speaking to determine spark timing. High octane for when your foot is on the gas, coastdown for when your foot is off the gas but you're still rolling, and idle when your foot is off the gas and you're sitting still. A lot of problems arise from not blending these tables properly. Since you can jump back and forth between them, they need to transition smoothly so you don't have huge jumps in spark advance when you let off the gas or get on the gas. There are also tons of modifier tables, but they are mainly to help with other things like IAT, ECT, bad gas, idle correction, knock, etc..

What you're describing is essentially what CFD and I were talking about. On my car when I jump from reverse to going forward... I disconnect the driveline with the clutch. Mine doesn't need as much timing because it's unloaded. Yours still has to push some load. At least this is what we were theorizing haha. Like I said.. I haven't ever hooked up to an auto car and looked at the tune differences.

Attachment 657457

This is what makes me think it may be tune related. I have the same stalling issues mostly when going from reverse to drive or neutral. When logging, during that time, my timing is all over the place.

[thahemp]

Mine still looks pretty wild at idle, but you can see it start to level out as soon as I touch the gas pedal. My transition from reverse to drive out of the driveway is between the two humps at the end of this screenshot. It still dips way down, but mine never stalls. You guys might just need to tighten it up a little down there.

[CFD]

Originally Posted by thahemp

Mine still looks pretty wild at idle, but you can see it start to level out as soon as I touch the gas pedal. My transition from reverse to drive out of the driveway is between the two humps at the end of this screenshot. It still dips way down, but mine never stalls. You guys might just need to tighten it up a little down there.

Attachment 657462

If you think thats wild you should see mine lol.

The similarities between mine and PQ's is what makes me think it's in his tune especially where he has gone through most of the mechanical possibilities.

[thahemp]

Turn off spark smoothing if you haven't already. That did wonders for eliminating the crazy swings in timing under normal driving.

[CFD]

Originally Posted by thahemp

Turn off spark smoothing if you haven't already. That did wonders for eliminating the crazy swings in timing under normal driving.

I haven't touched a thing on mine, still have the base tune sent by Rhino. If I recall correctly, spark smoothening is off.

[JusticePete]

You have a maggie, correct?

[thahemp]

Originally Posted by CFD

I haven't touched a thing on mine, still have the base tune sent by Rhino. If I recall correctly, spark smoothening is off.

I would suspect the same. Ryan is the one that told me to do it when I was fighting timing swings and bucking. He helped me out a lot learning how to tune this thing. Him and Michael Hornback from Straightline Performance. Invaluable!

[Mr Twisty]

Pete, he has a Maggie, and with the pulley changes he's spinning the turbines a bit quicker even at idle.

Maybe try a little carb cleaner spritzes around the intake gasket.

(I just had a feeling of deja vue) ... got exhaust leak?

[JusticePete]

1. Bypass the Maggie supplied catch can. They are prone to vacuum leaks. Does it improve?
2. Spray it. No NOS. Carb Cleaner. With the engine at idle, spray the carb cleaner all around the mounting / gasketed areas. if there is a leak you'll see an immediate change in idle when you spray it.

[PQ]

Originally Posted by motorhead

You have a maggie right? Is the bypass opening all the way with no throttle Input? you could remove the rear blower belt, start the car and idol only to see if the vacuum is higher without the supercharger. If not, I would say it's the type of cam you have if you have no other vacuum leaks.

Bypass is opening fully and no leaks on the hose.

Could be this cam with a stock TC and the 1800 stall?

Those pulleys are a bitch while installed. I do have a small serpentine I can possible put on bypassing the front drive pulley of the blower.

Originally Posted by thahemp

That is likely timing related. Your car uses 3 tables generally speaking to determine spark timing. High octane for when your foot is on the gas, coastdown for when your foot is off the gas but you're still rolling, and idle when your foot is off the gas and you're sitting still. A lot of problems arise from not blending these tables properly. Since you can jump back and forth between them, they need to transition smoothly so you don't have huge jumps in spark advance when you let off the gas or get on the gas. There are also tons of modifier tables, but they are mainly to help with other things like IAT, ECT, bad gas, idle correction, knock, etc..

What you're describing is essentially what CFD and I were talking about. On my car when I jump from reverse to going forward... I disconnect the driveline with the clutch. Mine doesn't need as much timing because it's unloaded. Yours still has to push some load. At least this is what we were theorizing haha. Like I said.. I haven't ever hooked up to an auto car and looked at the tune differences.

Attachment 657457

Vengeance tuned it last time. They absolutely over looked this issue somehow.

Originally Posted by CFD

If you think thats wild you should see mine lol.

The similarities between mine and PQ's is what makes me think it's in his tune especially where he has gone through most of the mechanical possibilities.

Yup. It really is down to vacuum.

So tune, leak, cam caused, or overdrive pulley caused.

Originally Posted by Mr Twisty

Pete, he has a Maggie, and with the pulley changes he's spinning the turbines a bit quicker even at idle.

Maybe try a little carb cleaner spritzes around the intake gasket.

(I just had a feeling of deja vue) ... got exhaust leak?

haha, I did propane torch. Seen it work before but not sure how effective.

Originally Posted by JusticePete

1. Bypass the Maggie supplied catch can. They are prone to vacuum leaks. Does it improve?
2. Spray it. No NOS. Carb Cleaner. With the engine at idle, spray the carb cleaner all around the mounting / gasketed areas. if there is a leak you'll see an immediate change in idle when you spray it.

I do not have my catch can installed yet and my Maggie did not come with one.

I'll try the carb cleaner instead of the propane.