Stroker motors out there?

[resdwells]

I am having to pull the motor in my 2011 SS due to a spun bearing. I'm debating on upgrading to a full forged rotating assembly with the additional stroke to get a few more cubic inches. Just wondering if there is anyone else who has done so recently and if they have any words of wisdom etc.

Thanks!
DW

[adam0311]

Did a few 402s and 416/417s when I was a tech. What questions do you have ?
What are your goals?
Do you have a budget?

[christianchevell]

Boring the standard block is not done its just honed, and can only go .020 over as the sleeves are thin and cast in with the block not being removable. Spinning a bearing you should still be able to salvage most parts of your engine and maybe just need to turn the crank and use one different bearing. What ever is wrong a forged short block can be going on 5 grand, Bought mine from EBAY from a place called SAG performance group/custom engine supply and shipping was free. Second choice for price I think was ebay Thompson motorsport, and I know some shops in Florida do them up for cheap also. I bought a special windage tray from MAST for my stroker and it still did not give enough clearance. The deal with a stroker is what compression ratio you want and if your going to use boost and knowing the parts. Making sure the oil pickup is at the right height and the place doing it has to clearance the lower part of the sleeves and clearance the con rods also on them...... And balanced is better than the stock specs, I also go with a good harmonic balancer.

I had a valve drop due to shot springs... over rev damage came to haunt and I could see why the pushrods were slightly tweaked. SO the springs were stressed....And the engine was so strong.....Itr was the slightest of ticking..

Anyway I went big and gained 40 ft lbs all across the board and HP fell only slightly with a much more mild cam.

My pistons are RaceTec ,Molnar rods and crank...Molnar makes names like Wiseco k1, Callies etc... Racetek the former owner of JE piston now going for the NICHE markets to keep busy,,( JE being like the largest in the world he got tired of freezing ol Detroit and moved to CAL and got bored retired). SO research and shop around, I got my engine in the winter during slow time and saved a bunch as the price jumped in the better weather...

You could spend a fortune on a storker or go smart , I teamed mine up with GMPP CNC ported heads...$1200 with the hollow stem intakes from Summmit just a little more than new stock.....

SO parts add up, forged crank, rods, pistons is around $2500.. then machining & Assembly, And if your block can be honed the pistons rings have to match the cylinder size, and you want a shop to clearance it right and install everything right. My new block 12-1300 new bought by the Machinists in Angola Indiana close to the factory...? Bare..

[resdwells]

I plan to have a blower installed once I pay it off. (2yrs to go) Figured while its apart i might as well go with a forged rotating assembly to make life easier in the long run.
Leaning towards the 4" stroke kit at the moment.

[2012LS3VERT]

I went with a 416 stroker. I bought a short block because my block was hosed (oops, shoulda went with heads studs, lol). I wouldn't go bigger if a blower is in the future. The 416 has a 4" stroke and 4.07" bores. The same stroke and a 4.08 bore is the more common setup (418 cid), but the 4.07" bores is just a minor cleanup and leaves almost stock cylinder wall thickness. For a N/A setup, you can get a 4.1" stroke and build a 427, but again, if a blower is in the future, I wouldn't have the piston coming that far out of the bottom of the bore.

[2012LS3VERT]

Oh, and I went with 10:1 compression because I already had the blower, and is what I would recommend if you are planning boost in the future.

[SSBUSDRVR]

You will get plenty of opinions here but not as many as what CAI or Headers or Exhausts are the best lol So here is my 1 Cent. Don't cut corners just to save a buck. Build it right the first time. Lower the Compression Ratio since you are going Boost and you don't have to Stroke it Can always just build the Bottom End Strong and stick with Stock CI.
Don't waste money on an Aftermarket Intake. Spend it elsewhere. The Stock Intake flows well.

[Anthony @ LG Motorsports]

Originally Posted by resdwells

I am having to pull the motor in my 2011 SS due to a spun bearing. I'm debating on upgrading to a full forged rotating assembly with the additional stroke to get a few more cubic inches. Just wondering if there is anyone else who has done so recently and if they have any words of wisdom etc.

Thanks!
DW

Think about the end goal of the project...like a few others have said if you are going to go forced induction think about it now.

Power output...given nothing else changes you will pickup 10-15 hp at the tires and about 35-45 rwtq by going to a stroker setup.

I don't always think you need to drop compression because you are going boosted. Heck I have done 14 psi on a 11.7:1 setup just fine with some meth and pump gas, just have to make sure the combo is right.

As stated above, most rotating assemblies (crank/rods/pistons/pins/rings) should run you in the $2400-2600 range for good quality stuff. That being said you can drop $4400 on a crank alone if you absolutely wanted to.