Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums - Camaro5.com
 
Bigwormgraphix
Go Back   Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums - Camaro5.com > Technical Camaro Topics > Suspension / Brakes / Chassis


Reply
 
Thread Tools
Old 03-09-2016, 11:17 AM   #71
BMR Sales



 
BMR Sales's Avatar
 
Drives: Race Car
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Seffner, FL
Posts: 5,785
Timing the Bushings can be done when you are getting it Aligned, but not the same thing.

Keep calling around til you find someone that knows what they are doing. Or Print the beginning of this Thread out and take it with you.
BMR Sales is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-23-2016, 11:48 AM   #72
p.s.
 
Drives: 2014 v6 manual
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: upstate ny
Posts: 58
I can't find one place that will do this in my area. I've gotten laughs from a few places after showing them these instructions. Also got a quote of 400+ from a big chain shop. I'm trying it myself but I can't get the inner control arm loosened.
p.s. is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-31-2016, 06:24 PM   #73
Airbornesldr12
RunEmIfYouGotEm
 
Airbornesldr12's Avatar
 
Drives: She wears midnight blue ls3 m6
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Chicago
Posts: 85
Just got mined timed and alignment at stanfa in south holland IL after 1" slp spring drop,rides better and once again this forum comes thru again
Airbornesldr12 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-20-2016, 01:25 AM   #74
GSoccerCam
 
Drives: 2010 LS3
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Nashville TN
Posts: 176
So it might be a silly question i know.. but in the pics it shows front and right rear ... do we just match it on the left rear ? Or is that all for the rear suspension to reclock? Sorry if its silly in advance...
__________________
2010 LS3 FORGED BOTTOM END. BUILT TOP END WITH BTR COMPONENTS AND A GPI CAM
GSoccerCam is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-20-2016, 02:38 AM   #75
MarioSS
 
MarioSS's Avatar
 
Drives: 2010 Camaro SS (RS LS3)
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Jo
Posts: 306
Quote:
Originally Posted by GSoccerCam View Post
So it might be a silly question i know.. but in the pics it shows front and right rear ... do we just match it on the left rear ? Or is that all for the rear suspension to reclock? Sorry if its silly in advance...
Applies on both sides

Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk
MarioSS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-30-2017, 07:57 PM   #76
Avalnch

 
Avalnch's Avatar
 
Drives: Rally Yellow Camaro+Avalanche
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Vancouver
Posts: 1,108
Do the aftermarket components that are poly/delrin with an aluminum sleeve need to be "timed"?
Avalnch is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-05-2017, 01:30 PM   #77
OmniCamaro
US Veteran
 
OmniCamaro's Avatar
 
Drives: 2011 Silver Ice Metallic 2SS/RS A6
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Bossier City, La
Posts: 1,404
I'm going to attempt to "time bushings" with the car on jack stands. My theory is I can use a jack to lift the knuckle (ensuring I protect it with wood and/or something else soft) and then tighten the bolts while it's under load.

I'm going to do it this way because I'd like to get it done BEFORE I drive it for the alignment. If I can't raise it high enough at least it'll be better than tightening it all at the full down position.

I'll post back with how it works out.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
__________________
Dear Lord, give me the strength to carry on despite my Camaro addiction!
JRE iTSX tune, full cat-less Dynatech exhaust, CAI intake, Stillen Slotted/Drilled Rotors, RB braided brake lines, BMR lowering springs, (reserved for definite future MODS)
OmniCamaro is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-05-2017, 01:44 PM   #78
KillboyPowerhead

 
Drives: 2015 Z/22
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 786
I was thinking of doing this too with my springs. Just make sure to drive around the block first to make sure the wheels are settled (if you haven't driven around with the new springs yet), then measure from the bottom of the rim up through the centre of the wheel to the fender to see where the wheel sits, then jack up the wheel that far. Let me know how it works out
__________________
Overkill Tuned; K&N Typhoon Cold Air Intake, Ported 80mm Throttle Body/Intake Manifolds/Manifold Spacer; Solo Performance High-Flow Cats, Cat-back Exhaust; Vitesse Motorsports Throttle Controller; Elite Engineering E2 Catch Can; BC Racing BR Coilovers; JPSS Delrin Radius Rod Bushing Inserts, Sway Bars; Pegasus Aluminum Rear Cradle Bushings, Camber/Caster Plates; Z/28 Toe Links, Trailing Arms, Upper Control Arm Bushings, Rear Shock Mounts
KillboyPowerhead is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-05-2017, 03:37 PM   #79
camaro500

 
camaro500's Avatar
 
Drives: 2017 Jaguar F Type R Tuned 498awhp
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Canada
Posts: 872
Quote:
Originally Posted by OmniCamaro View Post
I'm going to attempt to "time bushings" with the car on jack stands. My theory is I can use a jack to lift the knuckle (ensuring I protect it with wood and/or something else soft) and then tighten the bolts while it's under load.

I'm going to do it this way because I'd like to get it done BEFORE I drive it for the alignment. If I can't raise it high enough at least it'll be better than tightening it all at the full down position.

I'll post back with how it works out.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
This will not work. You must time the bushings at driving height. Meaning driving the car back and forth in the driveway and then rolling up ramps and timing the bushings.
__________________
JRE cammed w.full bolt ons 444rwhp/422rwtq SOLD
2017 Jaguar F Type R
''Life moves pretty fast. If you don't stop and look around once in a while, you could miss it.'' - F. Bueller
camaro500 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-26-2017, 10:58 AM   #80
KillboyPowerhead

 
Drives: 2015 Z/22
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 786
Any time you change the height of the vehicle you should time the bushings, however, if you're making only a minor change, like 1/4" or less, you may not need to bother (just think: you're tires change about 1/4" in diameter throughout their life), although if you can time the bushings yourself you might as well do so. Also, I think those BMR arms might have a different style bushing which does not need to be timed, but maybe someone else can confirm that.
__________________
Overkill Tuned; K&N Typhoon Cold Air Intake, Ported 80mm Throttle Body/Intake Manifolds/Manifold Spacer; Solo Performance High-Flow Cats, Cat-back Exhaust; Vitesse Motorsports Throttle Controller; Elite Engineering E2 Catch Can; BC Racing BR Coilovers; JPSS Delrin Radius Rod Bushing Inserts, Sway Bars; Pegasus Aluminum Rear Cradle Bushings, Camber/Caster Plates; Z/28 Toe Links, Trailing Arms, Upper Control Arm Bushings, Rear Shock Mounts
KillboyPowerhead is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-26-2017, 11:02 AM   #81
edog


 
edog's Avatar
 
Drives: 2010 2SS/RS IOM
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: F'BURG VA
Posts: 3,803
Quote:
Originally Posted by KillboyPowerhead View Post
Any time you change the height of the vehicle you should time the bushings, however, if you're making only a minor change, like 1/4" or less, you may not need to bother (just think: you're tires change about 1/4" in diameter throughout their life), although if you can time the bushings yourself you might as well do so. Also, I think those BMR arms might have a different style bushing which does not need to be timed, but maybe someone else can confirm that.
Thanks

The bmr style arms have the nipples for greasing. Those wont bind. Only the control arms are stock, So I guess I can see loosening them up.
__________________
NOVI1500 ECS SC, 13lb boost, LS3 Conversion 113/225/238 COMP CAM, Pro Yank 3600, 1-3/4 Doug Thorley Tri-Y LT/HF cat, X-Pipe, Lingenfelter dual fuel pump, ATI super damper pulley, Ported TB, 160 therm, Tranny cooler, Pedders sways/end links/sub frame bushings, BMR trailing arms & toe rods, 1" Eibach Drop, 3.45 gears. 705HP/589TQ
edog is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-27-2017, 03:04 AM   #82
FKNGRSY
 
Drives: 2014 1SS
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Canada
Posts: 158
I unbolted the outer lower control arm bolts today to help drop my struts and I can say timing your bushings is a must. The inner lower control arm bushings have zero play in them in the sense that if you move the control arm (in the same manner lowering a car would) they spring back into oem position HARD. I was skeptical at first but now I definitely understand timing bushings is a must. Ive never had a car with the metal sleeve bonded to the rubber. Strange.
FKNGRSY is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-27-2017, 10:58 AM   #83
edog


 
edog's Avatar
 
Drives: 2010 2SS/RS IOM
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: F'BURG VA
Posts: 3,803
Do you need to reset the end links when you raise or lower? My endlinks are pretty tight. Do you need to adjust them to allow control arms to have better travel?
__________________
NOVI1500 ECS SC, 13lb boost, LS3 Conversion 113/225/238 COMP CAM, Pro Yank 3600, 1-3/4 Doug Thorley Tri-Y LT/HF cat, X-Pipe, Lingenfelter dual fuel pump, ATI super damper pulley, Ported TB, 160 therm, Tranny cooler, Pedders sways/end links/sub frame bushings, BMR trailing arms & toe rods, 1" Eibach Drop, 3.45 gears. 705HP/589TQ
edog is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-27-2017, 01:02 PM   #84
KillboyPowerhead

 
Drives: 2015 Z/22
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 786
Sway bar links don't need to be timed as they are a ball-joint type joint. When you put on the coil-overs/springs you'll be removing the links so when you tighten everything back up simply bolt down tight with some blue loc-tite.

Factory links are not adjustable; you can get adjustable front links which I guess would be good for racing so you can corner-balance the car, but otherwise I wouldn't bother; for the rear if you want to adjust them you need to cut them - the ideal mounting position for the rear bar is centered over top of the mount of the control arm (link pointing straight up and down), so if you lower the car you could cut the link shorter but be careful how much you cut off!

Edit: just noticed you have a 2010. If you don't have the new style rear bar I highly suggest going that route. What I said about cutting the link applies to the new style links. I guess with the old style bar your adjustability is pretty limited even with modifications.
__________________
Overkill Tuned; K&N Typhoon Cold Air Intake, Ported 80mm Throttle Body/Intake Manifolds/Manifold Spacer; Solo Performance High-Flow Cats, Cat-back Exhaust; Vitesse Motorsports Throttle Controller; Elite Engineering E2 Catch Can; BC Racing BR Coilovers; JPSS Delrin Radius Rod Bushing Inserts, Sway Bars; Pegasus Aluminum Rear Cradle Bushings, Camber/Caster Plates; Z/28 Toe Links, Trailing Arms, Upper Control Arm Bushings, Rear Shock Mounts
KillboyPowerhead is offline   Reply With Quote
 
Reply

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
DIY: LS3 Camshaft Install (a lot of pictures, may take a moment to load) robertway Camaro DIY & HOW-TO instructions & discussions 306 09-19-2020 11:03 AM
Timing bushings gtfitter597 Suspension / Brakes / Chassis 41 07-09-2014 12:02 PM
Put More Power To The Pavement With Pfadt Engine Mounts And Differential Bushings!!!! Apex Motorsports Transmission / Driveline 28 11-27-2010 11:46 AM
clunking after bushings and lowering rtkjadams Suspension / Brakes / Chassis 12 10-01-2010 11:56 AM
Urethane Bushings from Energy Suspension Bewenched Suspension / Chassis / Brakes 1 04-30-2010 06:12 AM


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:22 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.9 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2021, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.