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Old 06-27-2020, 05:17 PM   #15
InFiD3ViL


 
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Can't find mine, only the dipstick itself. I know I have another tube somewhere lol.

But yeah, you are definitely missing the lower piece, But based on this pic, should it be in the dipstick whole still? It has a flange that doesn't allow it to fall in from what I can see.
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Old 06-27-2020, 05:17 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by 07-SRT View Post
Yes, it goes through the block into the pan. I would pull the starter and buy a GM dip stick tube extractor bit. Similar to an EZ- out
I never even knew that existed. I will have to look into that.
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Old 06-27-2020, 05:20 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by InFiD3ViL View Post
Can't find mine, only the dipstick itself. I know I have another tube somewhere lol.

But yeah, you are definitely missing the lower piece, But based on this pic, should it be in the dipstick whole still? It has a flange that doesn't allow it to fall in from what I can see.
If you look at my picture again I think that flange is still on my dipstick tube you see in your picture. It looks like mine broke about a quarter inch into the block. Kinda thinking educated guess probably right where the rubber o ring is
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Old 06-27-2020, 05:26 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by gsxrturbo View Post
Id fish it out with a magnet threw the drain plug
That might be a possibility if the broken end fell out of the block all the way to the bottom of the pan. I’ve never seen one of these motors with pan off to see whereabouts the dipstick tube sits. If it’s closer to the back it should be fine to do this. If it’s closer to the front and it gets in the front of the pan I’m concerned running the motor it’ll Jam up with the rotation of the crank. Therefore I really don’t want to run it. The magnet may work for the tube but I’ll have to hope that rubber o ring stays on the end of that tube didn’t/doesn’t roll off magnet will not pick up rubber
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Old 06-27-2020, 09:05 PM   #19
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Why the hell would they design it like this. Really GM?
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Old 06-27-2020, 10:05 PM   #20
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Idk but I think I got an idea that may or may not work. I’ll remove the exhaust manifold and starter Drain the oil, hoping the remaining piece hasn’t fallen down into the pan. I will feed a thin rod down hopefully through the remaining piece down through the oil drain hole. Then with a small dia screwdriver drive the remaining piece down into the pan. Which will then follow the rod to the drain hole. It’s am idea I feel worthwhile to try.
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Old 06-29-2020, 02:49 PM   #21
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Another quick question. Does anyone know if the hole in the engine block has a taper to it fitting the form of the dipstick tube? Meaning it won’t fall down into the oil pan?

My plan is I have a Piece of wire I want to run down through the hole (hoping the broken piece is still in the dipstick hole) through the oil drain plug hole. Then with small dia rod or screw driver push the Broken piece into the Oil pan. Obviously broken piece follows the metal rod down to the oil plug hole.

I don’t want to drive on the broken piece downward if that won’t work and there is a taper down there. I’ve never had a motor out and down to have any personal knowledge on this
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Old 06-30-2020, 11:58 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by Scooter18155 View Post
Another quick question. Does anyone know if the hole in the engine block has a taper to it fitting the form of the dipstick tube? Meaning it won’t fall down into the oil pan?

My plan is I have a Piece of wire I want to run down through the hole (hoping the broken piece is still in the dipstick hole) through the oil drain plug hole. Then with small dia rod or screw driver push the Broken piece into the Oil pan. Obviously broken piece follows the metal rod down to the oil plug hole.

I don’t want to drive on the broken piece downward if that won’t work and there is a taper down there. I’ve never had a motor out and down to have any personal knowledge on this
Nobody has an answer for this? I still haven’t gotten the thing out yet I looked up the specifically made tool for this seems to run $75 which is quite a bit for one time use thing. I been trying to use a tap and seems that not working very well for one reason or another.
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Old 06-30-2020, 02:46 PM   #23
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Going way, way back to my teen years I remember my father having the same dilemma with his (now my ) '71 Olds. He cranked a self tapping screw in the end and pulled out the broken portion with vise grips. Desperate times call out for desperate measures. Try soaking the area with penetrating fluid, the o-ring may be petrified. Obviously proceed with caution since you don't want to make a bad situation worse.
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Old 06-30-2020, 04:08 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by ariZona28 View Post
Going way, way back to my teen years I remember my father having the same dilemma with his (now my ) '71 Olds. He cranked a self tapping screw in the end and pulled out the broken portion with vise grips. Desperate times call out for desperate measures. Try soaking the area with penetrating fluid, the o-ring may be petrified. Obviously proceed with caution since you don't want to make a bad situation worse.
I’ve tried using a tap however my t handle I have to big and won’t rotate in that small area. I’ve tried putting a socket on the end of the tap instead of the t handle. However the tap I think will work kinda fits between socket sizes go figure lol. It’s like whatever I try I can’t win. If I don’t figure something out by the end of the day I’m going to suck it up buy the tool specifically made for it tomorrow I guess. I really concerned about the hole being tapered and trying to drive it into the pan will just drive it in deeper and getting it stuck even worse
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Old 06-30-2020, 06:49 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by Scooter18155 View Post
I’ve tried using a tap however my t handle I have to big and won’t rotate in that small area. I’ve tried putting a socket on the end of the tap instead of the t handle. However the tap I think will work kinda fits between socket sizes go figure lol. It’s like whatever I try I can’t win. If I don’t figure something out by the end of the day I’m going to suck it up buy the tool specifically made for it tomorrow I guess. I really concerned about the hole being tapered and trying to drive it into the pan will just drive it in deeper and getting it stuck even worse
They make specific sockets fot the end of taps. You can get them on amazon for fairly cheal
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Old 06-30-2020, 06:59 PM   #26
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They make specific sockets fot the end of taps. You can get them on amazon for fairly cheal
Interesting I didn’t think they made those. I see Irwin makes some. And they sold at Lowe’s might pay a tad more but it’ll save waiting for them in the mail.
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Old 07-01-2020, 07:00 AM   #27
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I might be a little hesitant to use a tap or easy out on a smooth bore hole like this. If you score the block you'll wanna file it smooth or the new one will just get stuck again. I know people do it, I just think at this point, where you have already had a malfunction, dropping the oil pan so you have access to both sides of this situation seems logical. From the oil pan side you might be able to use a punch and free it up and out.
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Old 07-01-2020, 12:30 PM   #28
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That sucks, sorry about your luck. That tube definitely broke off, since it was stuck it is probably still in the block and didn't drop into the pan. Pan isn't too bad If you get the kit to change the crossmember under the pan to a bolt in style I believe. I haven't done it myself.
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