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Old 03-22-2021, 03:07 PM   #1
RupertPupkin

 
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Crank Case Venting

For you high HP boosted guys, what are your setup to relieve crank case pressure. I have the Mighty Mouse Wild Catch can, which I thought would work, but it didn’t. I want to keep that setup, but what other configuration can I do.

I chatted with Mighty Mouse and they said I can put a pcv line from the driver cover to the filter/charge pipe of my ECS blower. However, I would think it will pull oil in the S/C doing it that way.
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Old 03-22-2021, 04:41 PM   #2
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I run 2 catch cans. One dirty side like yours and one clean side like Mighty Mouse suggested.
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Old 03-22-2021, 05:01 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by Bo White View Post
I run 2 catch cans. One dirty side like yours and one clean side like Mighty Mouse suggested.
You ever pulled oil? What catch can for the driver side?
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Old 03-22-2021, 05:13 PM   #4
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Interesting.... I have my MM installed like yours (but with the check-valve on the can connector instead of inline like your gray color check-valve). In addition, I have a small vent can installed on my driver's side valve cover connector on the rear of the valve cover. I can run 27psi boost so far...
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Old 03-22-2021, 06:01 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by dreksnot View Post
Interesting.... I have my MM installed like yours (but with the check-valve on the can connector instead of inline like your gray color check-valve). In addition, I have a small vent can installed on my driver's side valve cover connector on the rear of the valve cover. I can run 27psi boost so far...
There’s a check valve in the can also, right by the filter.
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Old 03-23-2021, 02:26 PM   #6
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What's the purpose of the filter on top of the MM can? Is there a check valve associated with it to vent to atmosphere if there is pressure? Similiar to the CFM breather. What's the routing of the clean side? I'm guessing that the check valve connected inline with the hose to the intake is to prevent boost pressure from going into the can and crankcase. Could it be installed backwards or not working correctly? Is there an arrow on the valve? Does the other check valve mentioned serve the same purpose? At idle, if you remove the line at the oil filler, you should have vacuum pulling towards the can. It may buck and stumble when you pull it off, due to unmetered air entering the intake.
Most catch cans have 3 ports for supercharged applications. Or use 2 cans.
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Old 03-23-2021, 03:33 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Badbubba View Post
What's the purpose of the filter on top of the MM can? Is there a check valve associated with it to vent to atmosphere if there is pressure? Similiar to the CFM breather. What's the routing of the clean side? I'm guessing that the check valve connected inline with the hose to the intake is to prevent boost pressure from going into the can and crankcase. Could it be installed backwards or not working correctly? Is there an arrow on the valve? Does the other check valve mentioned serve the same purpose? At idle, if you remove the line at the oil filler, you should have vacuum pulling towards the can. It may buck and stumble when you pull it off, due to unmetered air entering the intake.
Most catch cans have 3 ports for supercharged applications. Or use 2 cans.
Check valve allows unmetered airflow FROM filtered catch can to the throttle body connection. When positive pressure in the intake manifold (in boost), the check valve closes preventing a "boost leak" out the can. The larger hose connected from the oil filler cap to the catch can serves to vent the crank case, and also allows a slight venting of the valve cover pulling smellies back into the motor under idle and normal driving (no boost).

Not sure why he has two check valves installed (MM includes one in the can fitting and he has the gray one inline).

I have seen oil spattering (as seen in his picture) when my catch can is filling up, needing to be drained.
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Old 03-23-2021, 03:40 PM   #8
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You asked to see my 2nd installed catch can on my driver's side. It only serves as a secondary path to vent crank case pressure. It's connected to the rear vent port on the driver's side valve cover. So far 27psi boost and no blown main seals.
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Old 03-23-2021, 04:55 PM   #9
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Easiest way to prevent seals from popping out is to vent both valve covers to a can that has a filter on it. Now if you want a dual purpose system that actually cleans your air, then it gets more complicated. I have noticed, with my cam, and driving frequency, i dont really need one. I pulled the intake a while back and there was 0 signs of oily residue.

Let the boost out or you will be pulling your motor to fix seals. Sucks.
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Old 03-23-2021, 07:15 PM   #10
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I’m not nearly high hp or high boost but I run Motion raceworks burndown tubes with their catch can venting each cover with an10 hose.

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Old 03-23-2021, 08:54 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dreksnot View Post
Check valve allows unmetered airflow FROM filtered catch can to the throttle body connection. When positive pressure in the intake manifold (in boost), the check valve closes preventing a "boost leak" out the can. The larger hose connected from the oil filler cap to the catch can serves to vent the crank case, and also allows a slight venting of the valve cover pulling smellies back into the motor under idle and normal driving (no boost).

Not sure why he has two check valves installed (MM includes one in the can fitting and he has the gray one inline).

I have seen oil spattering (as seen in his picture) when my catch can is filling up, needing to be drained.
The hoses I got from MM already had the check valve fitted on there already. There’s actually no oil in my can. The splatter is from my crank seal leaking a lot from me doing pulls.

Quote:
Originally Posted by eLeSthree View Post
Easiest way to prevent seals from popping out is to vent both valve covers to a can that has a filter on it. Now if you want a dual purpose system that actually cleans your air, then it gets more complicated. I have noticed, with my cam, and driving frequency, i dont really need one. I pulled the intake a while back and there was 0 signs of oily residue.

Let the boost out or you will be pulling your motor to fix seals. Sucks.
Yeah. Def sucks, which is part of the game. I just rolled snake eyes.

I’m thinking of altering my setup.

1. Keep MM wild setup- oil fill to the can, then hose from can to intake/tb nipple.
2. Vent filter breather on driver side (no check valve)
3. Vent filter breather connected to valley nipple (with check valve).

Will this work? What can be swapped?
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Old 03-24-2021, 12:39 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dreksnot View Post
Check valve allows unmetered airflow FROM filtered catch can to the throttle body connection. When positive pressure in the intake manifold (in boost), the check valve closes preventing a "boost leak" out the can. The larger hose connected from the oil filler cap to the catch can serves to vent the crank case, and also allows a slight venting of the valve cover pulling smellies back into the motor under idle and normal driving (no boost).

Not sure why he has two check valves installed (MM includes one in the can fitting and he has the gray one inline).

I have seen oil spattering (as seen in his picture) when my catch can is filling up, needing to be drained.
Yeah. Sort of figured the dirty side was from the oil filler neck, since there was no connection to the valley cover or valve cover. But wasn't sure about the breather. If the breather is open to atmosphere, then that creates a parallel path to the intake manifold side of the throttle. So at low rpm, the crankcase is not getting evacuated very well. That may be the reason Rupert states there is no oil in the can. But at high rpm and increased crankcase pressure, the pressure should vent out the breather without an issue. Imo, the breather should have a check valve to not allow outside air in. Now back to crankcase pressure. If the clean side is connected to the intake tube, for n/a, then that would pressurize the crankcase. Or if the check valves are not installed or working correctly, could cause pressure. Even if the hoses were on the wrong port would cause issues, which doesn't appear to be the case.
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Old 03-24-2021, 12:54 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RupertPupkin View Post
The hoses I got from MM already had the check valve fitted on there already. There’s actually no oil in my can. The splatter is from my crank seal leaking a lot from me doing pulls.



Yeah. Def sucks, which is part of the game. I just rolled snake eyes.

I’m thinking of altering my setup.

1. Keep MM wild setup- oil fill to the can, then hose from can to intake/tb nipple.
2. Vent filter breather on driver side (no check valve)
3. Vent filter breather connected to valley nipple (with check valve).

Will this work? What can be swapped?
How is the clean side routed now?
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Old 03-24-2021, 06:48 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by Badbubba View Post
How is the clean side routed now?
Nothing is connected on the clean side.
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