Dual oil coolers for serious track duty

[Woodsman44]

My main focus was to try to get 100% airflow to each cooler. If you did that with the connectors at the top then maybe 40% of the top cooler would sit behind the bumper bar. You lose 2.5" with the connectors and the coolers are 6" tall. I tried to mount the top cooler upside down and the bottom cooler right side up but the connectors got in the way. I thought there was more room to play with until I actually had the coolers in position.

Also, I think I'll be removing the bowtie for track days since it sits right in front of the top cooler.

[hcsi99]

After completing another track day during a 85 degree day I found that my single oil cooler set up did not work. After a lot of searching on the Google machine looking at other peoples set ups and experiences, and a few oil cooling 101 documents I found I decided to upgrade my set up trying to use the parts that I have.

Air flow is a big part of cooling, and with half of my cooler being blocked a combination of the metal crash bar and the plastic piece that goes over the cash bar, some cutting was going to be required to let some more air in.


I ended up cutting the center section out of the crash bumper and boxing it in so it still have some strength.


I also trimmed the section seen here in the red to let more air through the lower grille opening.


For the coolers I wanted to use another Silver Earls 16 Row to match the cooler I already had, but found out that the silver was no longer made.

I could feel the OCD building in side of me, so I ordered two black Earls
16 Row Oil Coolers (EAR-41600AERL). The cooler bodies are 13 inches wide, 5 inches high, and 2 inches thick. I made a custom bracket out of aluminum that I picked up at my local big box hardware store.


I was able to mount the coolers between two frame rails using the thin metal taps that are part of the frame rails. I forgot to take pictures of this before I put the black plastic factory air ducting back in (sorry). I also mounted the coolers a half inch from the AC condenser. I read that the close the cooler, condenser, and radiator are together, the less likely turbulent air will be formed passing through any of the said cooling components making air use much more efficient.


I was able to use a hole in both sides of the frame rails that was already threaded to mount my lower cooler brackets that I made by bending some more aluminum. I don't remember the size of the bolt, but I ended up taking the bottom bolt from the washer tank and trying it, and it was the correct size and thread pitch, so I took that bolt with me to find two more.


With the coolers installed I filled both coolers with oil and installed the hoses. I primed the oil system by holding the accelerator to the floor while cranking the engine (this cuts the injectors and will not let an fuel in to the cylinders) for 10 seconds then taking 30 second brakes. I repeated this 4 times.


I started the car and quickly jumped out to check on my cooler only to find a large amount of oil coming from the passenger side cooler.
I shut the engine down and started my investigation. The oil was coming from the top outside port area, but I couldn't tell if it was the cooler or the fittings so I swapped the left and right fitting and tried again. Oil still leaking from the same side, so it was the cooler. I wanted to take the car out the next morning for a car party my friend was having so I ended up installed the silver cooler that I took off (same cooler just silver) and after a 15 minute swap job, no more leaks. I let the car get hot monitoring the oil PSI at different RPMS. 1,000 RPM oil pressure was 41 psi (minimum is 24), 2,000 RPM oil pressure was 48 psi (minimum is 35), 3,000 RPM oil pressure was 61 psi (minimum is 38). After about 45 minutes of running I checked everything over to make sure I didn't have leaks, then reinstalled the front bumper. Unless you get down and look with a light you can't even tell that the silver cooler is there. I ended up sending the bad black one back and getting another that I will install this winter when I'm not driving the car. I outlet the area of the black plastic inside bumper cover that I trimmed to let more air in.
I drove the car for a few days checking and rechecking to make sure no leaks had developed as I had a track day coming in a week.


Results:
It worked! My first track session was early afternoon, and the ambient temp was 85 degrees. I think the hottest I saw was 275 in my first session. The only issue I had was a lot of fluctuation in the gauge (auto meter 6348 Sport Comp Digital Temp Gauge with sensor). The sensor is monitoring oil going to the cooler. At times the gauge would drop 100 degrees, or all the way 0 at times, but oil pressure was fine. I'm thinking I have a wiring issue. The gauge read accurate when the car was in a straight line. The video is my 2nd session. I have another track day Sept 13th at a different track.

[BaylorCamaro]

Given my power output and how how I'm running at the track I think I need to follow Orange Crush's set up. I've been reluctant due to fear of oil pressure drop, but it sounds like he didn't have any issues. But part of that may have to do with his baffling.

Originally Posted by hcsi99

All of the oil pressure reading are in line with GM specs as far as hot minimum psi at a specific RPM. Street temps seem to be around 20 degrees cooler as well. My next track day is tomorrow so stay tuned for results.

Where can I find GM specs for hot minimum psi at specific RPM's?

Originally Posted by hcsi99

I let the car get hot monitoring the oil PSI at different RPMS. 1,000 RPM oil pressure was 41 psi (minimum is 24), 2,000 RPM oil pressure was 48 psi (minimum is 35), 3,000 RPM oil pressure was 61 psi (minimum is 38). After about 45 minutes of running I checked everything over to make sure I didn't have leaks, then reinstalled the front bumper. Unless you get down and look with a light you can't even tell that the silver cooler is there. I ended up sending the bad black one back and getting another that I will install this winter when I'm not driving the car. I outlet the area of the black plastic inside bumper cover that I trimmed to let more air in.

Basically what I'm looking for, was this found in the manual or somewhere online?

[hcsi99]

It helps when you work for a GM dealer but I can post it.

[hcsi99]

6.2 LSA
Lubrication System

• Oil Capacity – with Filter

7.6 liters
8.0 quarts

• Oil Capacity – without Filter

7.1 liters
7.5 quarts

• Oil Pressure – Minimum – Hot

165 kPa at 1,000 engine RPM
241 kPa at 2,000 engine RPM
262 kPa at 3,000 engine RPM
24 psig at 1,000 engine RPM
35 psig at 2,000 engine RPM
38 psig at 3,000 engine RPM

[BaylorCamaro]

Originally Posted by hcsi99

6.2 LSA
Lubrication System

• Oil Capacity – with Filter

7.6 liters
8.0 quarts

• Oil Capacity – without Filter

7.1 liters
7.5 quarts

• Oil Pressure – Minimum – Hot

165 kPa at 1,000 engine RPM
241 kPa at 2,000 engine RPM
262 kPa at 3,000 engine RPM
24 psig at 1,000 engine RPM
35 psig at 2,000 engine RPM
38 psig at 3,000 engine RPM

Awesome, thanks!

[hcsi99]

No problem.

[L99CAMA2011]

Originally Posted by X25

You're very welcome, and let us know how it goes!

Regarding using inline thermostat, Michael @ImprovedRacing doesn't think it would make much of a difference:


Regarding coolant temps, FYI, Synner posted this on my build thread.


Regarding timing/power v.s. coolant temps" I do have an uncut version of my last session, and you see the climb of temps around lap 3-4, and the subsequent quick drop in temps. Whatever the case, my trap speeds seem to be pretty constant, making me believe that I do not lose power. I'm wondering if my OEM thermostat gets a bit stuck, and opens all the way only when heated up a bit:

My coolant temps from the stock display is usually 222 max on track with out an oil cooler upgraded setup. What do you think my oil temps would be since I don't have a gauge at the moment?

[L99CAMA2011]

Originally Posted by X25

I've heard some say it's 280 degrees F for dino oil, and 320 for synthetics. I mailed my oil sample from the track day when I hit 297 degrees (maybe even more). I expect to see it in great condition, which would prove that synthetics are up to task (for me) up to 300 degrees F, not that I'd ever hit it again (I hope); we'll see.

Guess it's a good thing I switched to Motul true Ether core motor oils for track use. I heard they can handle the higher temps better.

[X25]

Originally Posted by L99CAMA2011

Guess it's a good thing I switched to Motul true Ether core motor oils for track use. I heard they can handle the higher temps better.

True, those class V oils are better. That said, if Mobil1 is already more than adequate for the job, do we really need it? Another issue is that those who use the expensive oil usually don't change it as often as those who use regular synthetics. Depending on how you use the oil and the motor, changing it more often might protect the engine better in the long term. Again, class V oils are indeed better suited for heavy duty use, there's no question, but wanted to bring these points up to consider as well.

[White_SS/RS]

I don't think the conversation should be about what temp the oil can handle since Mobile 1 claims their oil will endure 400+, the question should be what temp can the engine itself handle. That is probably the true limiting factor. I also question, what does Chevrolet do regarding oil temps when they conduct their endurance testing. It's not beneficial to run additional coolers to keep temps in check and turn around and sell it without one. We may be over analyzing and overthinking the oil temp issue.

[X25]

Originally Posted by L99CAMA2011

My coolant temps from the stock display is usually 222 max on track with out an oil cooler upgraded setup. What do you think my oil temps would be since I don't have a gauge at the moment?

I'm sorry I must have missed this question. We don't know if the OEM oil cooler's heat exchanger is a bottleneck itself in terms of transferring heat to the coolant. If so, the oil and coolant temps could easily diverge as they go higher. I actually would expect this to happen, since it happened to me on the C6 Z06, and the system we have here is not much different. If this is indeed the case, then it would be very hard to guess oil temps from the coolant temps.

[Orange Crush 1LE]

Originally Posted by White_SS/RS

I don't think the conversation should be about what temp the oil can handle since Mobile 1 claims their oil will endure 400+, the question should be what temp can the engine itself handle. That is probably the true limiting factor. I also question, what does Chevrolet do regarding oil temps when they conduct their endurance testing. It's not beneficial to run additional coolers to keep temps in check and turn around and sell it without one. We may be over analyzing and overthinking the oil temp issue.

Agreed. I don't know about the LS3, but according to the Viper chief engine designer, not-to-exceed limits on the V10 are:

255 F coolant
300 F oil

As long as you are comfortably below those, run a quality synthetic, and change the oil after a hard track event, you should be safe. We've been seeing Camaros running hotter than 300 F oil temp, which is concerning to me. I backed off when my oil hit 290 F and put in the oil coolers at that point.

[wakespeak]

So I landed at the C7 forum and a lot of the guys there are ducting air from the front grill right to the factory oil cooler. I may try this as I have already done it for the brakes.