2014 SIM 1SS/1LE Search & Build Thread

[cdb95z28]

More thoughts on the master cylinder reservoir cap diaphram

Concerning the seal/gasket/diaphram:

-The wetness observed is from fluid seeping thru the slit due to pressure build-up within the MC
-This is normal. Do not overfill the reservoir. I keep mine a little below the full mark. I just did a track day on the 8th, I had zero leakage onto the MC,
-Early thoughts were that the reservoir was leaking at the seam. This is not the issue. Some of those had the MC reservoir replace under warranty
-The Dorman diaphram has the slit as does the OE diaphram. If you drive the car hard enough over a sustained period of time, you will most likely find fluid outside the reservoir.
-The slit in the diaphram is there for pressure release, and it should not be blocked. The fluid then travels thru a small channel on the backside of the black OE cap (remove the diaphram from the cap and you will see this) where it then finds its way onto the top of the MC reservoir.
- The fluid comes thru the slit upon a rise in pressure, but the tightness of the slit (enter suggestive comments here )keeps the MC sealed during normal situations. The MC reservoir must be isolated from atmosphere so the fluid does not absorb moisture.
- If you were to completely seal the MC reservoir, you will lose the pressure relief (valve) this pressure then builds in the rest of the system, where you will most likely feel it first (if severe enough) in the clutch hydraulics as a stuck pedal. This is if you are still using the MC reservoir as your clutch reservoir also (OE). I have a separated clutch reservoir.

The system works if the details are looked at. A little fluid spilling on the MC reservoir is not a red flag or a reason to reinvent the wheel.

[Firefighter]

I've been eyeballing the Pfadt/AFe coil overs for some time now. The Ride Techs were in the running before AFe started making the Pfadt set up again. I like the lighter and relocation of the weight from the inverted tubes.

I also reluctantly keep in mind that JPSS is working on coil overs based on/in conjunction with Penske.

[AG1LE]

Originally Posted by Firefighter

I also reluctantly keep in mind that JPSS is working on coil overs based on/in conjunction with Penske.

I have a set of Penske's for sale, used less than 1 year

[Firefighter]

Originally Posted by AG1LE

I have a set of Penske's for sale, used less than 1 year

Don't think I haven't looked at those... too bad it's out of my budget right now.

Those Penske's are definitely better than the Ride Techs...

[Pushrod Pete]

Originally Posted by Firefighter

I also reluctantly keep in mind that JPSS is working on coil overs based on/in conjunction with Penske.

is this confirmed?!

[Firefighter]

Originally Posted by Pushrod Pete

is this confirmed?!

Last I heard he is. It was told to me to expect a premium price...

[AG1LE]

Originally Posted by Firefighter

Last I heard he is. It was told to me to expect a premium price...

I heard this a long time ago, but his recent builds have used other brands. Since I have Penske's, I was particularly interested, but I don't think anything has come of it.

[Firefighter]

Originally Posted by AG1LE

I heard this a long time ago, but his recent builds have used other brands. Since I have Penske's, I was particularly interested, but I don't think anything has come of it.

Either way they'll be out of my budget. The Pfadt/AFe are on the upper end of what I'm willing to spend.

I'm planning on running with my Hotchkiss Springs on my 1LE shocks. They are probably good for another 15K-20K miles. Then on to coil overs.

[cdb95z28]

By request:
Template for my remote clutch reservoir, Rule is for size reference. Open in paint or whatever you prefer, go to print>preferences>effects>% of nominal size>90> OK. Apply then print. Check your printed sheet for proper size with a ruler vs. the reference. Adjust as necessary. Second design moves the reservoir higher. See info within this thread as to why. Also take note on moving mounting holes to be more balanced. Cut out template and trace onto aluminum or steel. Stainless steel would be cool! The mounting screws (to the master cylinder) are 6mm. The bolts for the Wilwood mount are 1/4"-20.

See post # 29 on this thread for more info
YOU are responsible for the quality and integrity of this bracket!

[cdb95z28]

Behind on my updates, I've been busy! So many suspension changes to the car, some kinda wild (Z/28 struts + BMR 1" springs)
Now I'm on the Z/28 struts and springs with the OE 1LE rear bar and Justice Pete's front 27mm bar on the middle hole. With the Moreno camber plates the car sits way high at the nose, otherwise it feels great. I am missing the precison of the OE 1LE setup though.

[cdb95z28]

I removed the Morenos camber plates, and that dropped the nose. I reinstalled the OE upper strut mounts and the awesome feel is back. There is nothing wrong with the camber plates, I believe that they reduce steering friction so much that it mutes some off center feel. The OE mounts have more resistance to them. The car feels so confident now, it is less busy. Also add what the camber plates at max negative camber does to the steering axis inclination(SAI) and how that affects the scrub radius, which also affects the feel. I stepped back on the caster too, to about 7.2*, Now I'm looking to max out the camber to -2.0 for the track w/o camber plates. I'll be adding the Corvette ZO6 front calipers (vented pistons) ZL1 2 piece rotors and Ferodo pads for my next track day in September. Thanks to Norm Peterson here on the forums for his insight on some things I was feeling with my previous setup. He brought to my attention some dynamic principals on suspensions that were helpful.

[cdb95z28]

This spring/summer was insane. I played with the car so much and threw tons of different combos at it. Springs/ARBs/Alignment. Completed a process for repeatable home alignments. This is a big deal, as this saves time and money in alignment changes form street to track and back.
I am currently on the Z/28 springs and DSSV's with the Z/28 front ARB and OE 1LE rear ARB. The DSSV's have alot of rebound damping. Yes it is more firm than the 1LE stuff, but the chassis response is another level. My only wish with the Z/28 stuff is that it doesn't do much to lower the car. It did drop the rear some, but the front was pretty much the same as the OE ride height. And I am running the Z/28 front strut mounts as they did offer a better feel and I believe they offer more dynamic caster than some camber plates. I'll post up more details on my setup soon, but with every turn of the steering wheel it is pure enjoyment, moreso than with the OE 1LE setup.

The increased rear stiffness does make the rear tires spin easier when putting power down in a turn. I may put the OE Z/28 ARB on. It is smaller than the OE 1LE rear ARB, so that may help. But others who have the Z/28 stuff (and the Z/28 rear ARB) have had similar issues, dropspeed for example.

[cdb95z28]

Just some pics going back to last winter:
Brake duct routing





View from inside engine bay looking at hood vent



Brake duct inlet @ fog light. I also have the Z/28 brake ducts. Lots of air moving through the front wheelhouses.

[cdb95z28]

A few pics from Pitt Race in September, SCCA Track Night in America:
The blue C7 Z51 is owned by my buddy Marco. Check out his youtube page CarGuy11: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCaD...CSh07pfUwlyFMA



Love the Porsche 911 GT3 RS
The day was almost perfect. Of the 3 track days I did this year, this was the hottest by about 20*. New suspension set up and new brakes, but I was within 1 second of my personal best. Under similar conditions I would have beat it. The ZL1/CTS-V/C7 non CCB brakes were great, the Raybestos ST43 pads work great. I ran them on the street for a few days after and while they are noisy (I kinda liked it) they still offered very good cold braking, but the initial bite was too much for the street, even when cold. I'll post some brake pics soon. I was running the Z/28 springs/struts and a JPSS fron ARB set on the middle hole and the OE 1LE rear ARB. Car had understeer. The following day I installed the Z/28 front ARB and this was a big change. Too bad I did not get back to the track, gotta wait till next year.