Clutch vibration to clutch is broke

[White_SS/RS]

Originally Posted by Camaro Dude

1000 track miles is IMHO, very impressive, even I'd laugh you out of my service bay, if you came in seeking warranty coverage. I'd literally lol! Lol

I'm being more sympathetic to those who claim that their clutch pedal dropped to the floor after brief track run and/or hard romp on the street even.

I totally agree with that

[CamaroDreams76]

Yep, I think I have the same problem. mine is extremely intermittent though.

[X25]

Here is hoping you get it all figured out.

Does the Z/28 use the same clutch? It'd be interesting to know.. I think I'll try to install the remote bleeder, and if I drop inside, I'll just suck it up and drop the tranny : )

[White_SS/RS]

Originally Posted by X25

Here is hoping you get it all figured out.

Does the Z/28 use the same clutch? It'd be interesting to know..

Not sure, but I would assume so since we have the LS7 clutch in our cars.

[CrystalRedTintcoat]

Originally Posted by White_SS/RS

Well, clutch went to the floor today at the track, had to pull it up with my foot. The slaves about had it too... makes a high pitch squeal and feels gritty and notchy. Just changed the fluid the day before and it's already significantly blackend.

I too just had the clutch to the floor problem on Wednesday night driving home from Sonoma Raceway to San Jose. On the freeway I had to pull the clutch up with the toe of my shoe.

I may have fixed it albeit temporarily. See corner's thread about this same subject where I posted a picture of my brake fluid tester that shows the amount of water in brake fluid.

After I got home I tested the clutch fluid; it's in a separate reservoir from the brake fluid. It had > 4% water in it. I iteratively emptied the reservoir, refilled it, pumped the clutch 40 times, and tested the fluid in the reservoir for water. Each time it had 1-2% water in it.

It took 7-8 fills and purges before 0% water showed up on the meter.

[snarky]

Originally Posted by treplatano

i do understand the motto of "pay-to-play". but if I have already invested 40k+ on the car, and have to invest 3-5K off the bat in driveline upgrades, just to have some fun, then maybe i'd rather play somewhere else.

don't get me wrong, i LOOOOOOOOOOOOOOVE my 1LE, but chevy you've got to do better if you want my money. when it comes down to it, i could have the same amount of fun on a Subraru BRZ for a fraction of the price. If it wasn't for my addiction to power and torque, then i'd be elsewhere. I bought this 1LE to get away from having to upgrade too much on a car.

My last car, I had invested over 50K in it, and made well over 500WHP and weighed half as much.

I know this is really none of your bzness or your concern, but if I go out and purchase a "track ready" car, then if may as well be really F'ing track ready.

For the 38k I paid it is still a hands down the bang for the buck win. Having to replace the clutch someday with a HD unit is not an issue. 30 grand for a 200hp BRZ? No, thanks.

[treplatano]

Originally Posted by snarky

For the 38k I paid it is still a hands down the bang for the buck win. Having to replace the clutch someday with a HD unit is not an issue. 30 grand for a 200hp BRZ? No, thanks.

I never said its not good bang for your buck. To be honest I don't want to jack this thread and turn it, into a rant session. Im sure the OP would rather see more input that might help him solve the issue, rather than nitpicking.

I am also not a fan of any car that has less than 380lb/tq to provide. So the BRZ would be out of the question for me. but for the emphasis of just going out and having fun at a track or autoX - those low HP/TQ drivers never come off the track without a smile.

I get that the clutch is a wear/tear unit, but what we are seeing is "alleged" design failure from factory. Sure 38K/40K is a bargain for all this power and fun, but the moment you gotta start fixing a "design" flaw, and only seeing 8K miles on the ODO - well that's just silly.

OP - i am sorry if it seems I am jacking your thread. I have said my peace, and I hope you find a solution. I did install the reservoir on my car this weekend, and am keeping an eye out for any imperfections on my clutch/brakes. My brake fluid, was not really as dirty as some of the other guys out here, but it had alot of bubbles from overheating. If I find anything else useful I will let you know.

[Camaro Dude]

Originally Posted by CrystalRedTintcoat

I too just had the clutch to the floor problem on Wednesday night driving home from Sonoma Raceway to San Jose. On the freeway I had to pull the clutch up with the toe of my shoe.

I may have fixed it albeit temporarily. See corner's thread about this same subject where I posted a picture of my brake fluid tester that shows the amount of water in brake fluid.

After I got home I tested the clutch fluid; it's in a separate reservoir from the brake fluid. It had > 4% water in it. I iteratively emptied the reservoir, refilled it, pumped the clutch 40 times, and tested the fluid in the reservoir for water. Each time it had 1-2% water in it.

It took 7-8 fills and purges before 0% water showed up on the meter.

Did you pump the clutch 40 times for the first fill, meaning 40x7-8 fills = 280-320 times to pump the clutch in order to achieve a 0% reading on the apparatus?

2nd question would be, how many track sessions, and what length of them, would it take for water to begin contaminating the Dot 4 fluid in your separate clutch reservoir again?

I really do find all of this disconcerting, perhaps I'm over thinking it or being too paranoid.
I don't even want to go to my local track in the next few weeks anymore because of all of this.

[Elvira1le]

with the clutch and brakes on the same reservoir it might be a good idea to see what the fluid looks like and flush it before breaking everything apart.

[Fraxum]

Guys, remember the 1LE is not a track ready car. That is the Z/28. It was built to a price. And a low price at that for what you get for $3,500. Other than the clutch and the lack of brake ventilation the 1LE is a pretty good really fast track car for under $40K. Are we getting spoiled?

And the 1LE has to be very drive-able stock. A lightweight strong clutch assembly will be touchier to drive every day and be noisier with the clutch out at idle, unless you put in a very expensive clutch. Not happening at this price level. And if Chevy did do it, there would be even more people who would complain about the noise and the driving.

You can of course buy a used Miata and race it at 10/10s, have a blast, and not spend 1LE money. But considering if you have the skills, you can run with the big boys with a 1LE. How cool is that?

And with proper care the clutch is fine for occasional track days, but not once every other week. You will have to upgrade for that. Plan on spending $2,500+- to do it right. Or save $500 and DIY.

I am not a Chevy fan boy. But hats off to Chevy for building the 1LE. I hope we see a CA6 version.

[Camaro Dude]

Originally Posted by Fraxum

Guys, remember the 1LE is not a track ready car. That is the Z/28. It was built to a price......

Whilst I agree with everything you wrote above, all things being fair that is, the very first sentence did grab my attention, hence the re-quote and now the question.

I'm sure it's been asked before, but I don't seem to recall a solid answer that left a permenant mark in my memory, so my apologies if I must ask again. What difference is there with the Z28's "track ready" clutch system and the SS's? Basically, are there OEM pars from the Z28 parts bin that a 1LE owner can upgrade the clutch system to, and of course the second part to the question is, are they are bolt-on?

[X25]

Excluding the brakes, and recognizing they are setup at different levels (Extreme performance vs. R-compound), I don't think Z/28 is any more prepped than a 1LE when driven bone stock. In other words, the 'extra' hardware Z/28 has for preparedness is equally offset by higher demands, if not more.

[Fraxum]

Originally Posted by Camaro Dude

Whilst I agree with everything you wrote above, all things being fair that is, the very first sentence did grab my attention, hence the re-quote and now the question.

I'm sure it's been asked before, but I don't seem to recall a solid answer that left a permenant mark in my memory, so my apolougies if I must ask again. What difference is there with the Z28's "track ready" clutch system and the SS's? Basically, are there OEM pars from the Z28 parts bin that a 1LE owner can upgrade the clutch system to, and of course the second part to the question is, are they are bolt-on?

The Camaro does deserve a better clutch and supporting hydraulics, Z/28 included. The Z/28 LS7 clutch is only marginally better. I'm sure it would bolt in. But why bother? The aftermarket clutches are a better choice to put in once the car is apart. I know this is true for drag racing, but for track days? The LS7 clutch might do. I will say after searching the Z/28 forum, clutch problem threads are less frequent than here.

The Tick clutch line improves the flow and the bleeder makes bleeding the clutch system much easier, still a good move either way.

[Camaro Dude]

Originally Posted by Fraxum

The Camaro does deserve a better clutch and supporting hydraulics, Z/28 included. The Z/28 LS7 clutch is only marginally better. I'm sure it would bolt in. But why bother? .......... I will say after searching the Z/28 forum, clutch problem threads are less frequent than here....

Well see now, this is what is agitating me a bit, or is it still premature since far fewer Z28 owners? Or is it time to aim the spot light there?

I'll be watching this one closely, I need to understand.