06-24-2016, 02:53 PM | #1 |
Drives: 2012 1LT Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Denver, PA
Posts: 450
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Dad, I backed into someone, you can fix this, right?
That's the text message my daughter sent me from work on May 22, with this accompanying photo:
Me, "Umm, I don''t know honey, looks like paint's missing." I worked a bit of magic on it early this afternoon. Here's what it looked like from a better angle after being cleaned up with some of Adam's New Waterless Wash, using one of his Waffle Weave Waterless Wash specific microfiber towels: Once I'd figured I'd done the best I could: Perfect? Not hardly. Much better than it was though. A small dent, and some paint missing, but not too bad I thought! I'm not going to try to touch this one up. With this car being Ashen Grey Metallic, and where the damage is, the black plastic of the bumper is a close enough match to leave this one be. In order to see the damage now you'd have to squat down and look at it straight on. This is a daily driver that already has damage to the rear bumper and is driven by a 21 year old. Good enough. The mark/gouge on the lower rear side of the bumper and valance were there when she bought the car in the spring of 2015. After cleaning it, I clayed with Adam's Visco Clay and Geo Impression Tool to remove any remaining dirt, wax and glaze. Some areas I sanded with 2,000 grit to remove the scuffs, deeper scratches, and to round off the edges where the paint was missing. It's a dry use automotive paper, not the traditional Uni-grit wet paper. No need to measure the paint thickness here; 1.) The paint was missing in areas so it really needs a re-spray, and 2.) I've got a fair amount of practice at this-experience is both an awesome and cruel teacher. Once everything was sanded as I wanted, I moved to my cordless drill with a drill backing plate, attached an Adam's 4" Gen5 Orange Foam Pad and used his Paint Correcting Polish. No need for a microfiber cutting pad, the Orange Foam Pad and Paint Correcting Polish will remove 2,000 grit marks with just a few passes on the drill. I totally obliterated that foam pad though, which is now in the trash. All the sanding marks were gone and I moved to the Rupes Mini with a fresh Adam's Gen5 Orange Foam Pad and his Paint Correcting Polish. This step was to remove the swirl marks left behind from the cordless drill. The cordless drill makes pretty quick work of removing the sanding marks, but will leave marks of its own being it's nothing less that a miniature high speed rotary. I finished up the polishing with one of Adam's Gen5 White Foam Pads and his Paint Finishing Polish, again on the Rupes Mini. A coat of Menzerna Finishing Glaze was applied by hand, and topped with a layer of Adam's Americana Premium Paste Wax; she's good to go.
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Last edited by BRZN; 06-24-2016 at 05:43 PM. |
06-24-2016, 02:55 PM | #2 |
KaBoom1701
Drives: 13' ZL1 Red M6 Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: I.E. SoCal (Yucaipa)
Posts: 8,630
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Not bad.
Good job on fixing that.
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06-24-2016, 03:00 PM | #3 |
Drives: 2015 SW 1SS/RS 1LE Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Brighton, CO
Posts: 2,736
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Nice job!
Much better than the call I got from my Step Daughter, "Hey, can you come here... I rear ended a school bus! Don't tell Mom!"
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06-24-2016, 03:02 PM | #4 |
Drives: 2012 2SS/RS M6 Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: kannapolis, nc
Posts: 378
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nice work Dad!
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06-24-2016, 03:28 PM | #5 |
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Nice work!
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06-24-2016, 04:14 PM | #6 |
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Just FYI, since you have the Rupes Mini, I have one as well, terrific machine.
You can buy an interface and sanding discs from P1500 to P3000, that work with the machine, sanding is easier, safer, and faster then doing by hand. Then you simply switch to a microfiber cutting pad. I haven't used Adams compound, but I'll go out on a limb and say it's capable of removing 2000 grit sanding marks when used with a microfiber cutting pad. Then switch to finishing pad for final polishing. Switch again for application of LSP. Fast, easy, and safe. I use mine for spot repairs all the time on customers vehicles. No heat generated on surface during any application, far less chance to damage paint. Of course it's a good idea to measure the paint first, in your case, you wouldn't be able to get a reading because the rear bumper is plastic, but when sanding on painted metal or aluminum surfaces where you can get a reading, it's beneficial. One machine will do the job, and you have it. Just a suggestion, do as you wish.
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06-24-2016, 04:59 PM | #7 |
Drives: The shiny ones. Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: In the detail shop!
Posts: 5,979
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Nice save Dad!
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06-24-2016, 05:07 PM | #8 |
Drives: 2015 2SS/RS vert, Spring Green Edtn Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Sarasota, FL
Posts: 1,284
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You did an awesome job cleaning up the damage. I'd suggest getting a Dr. Colorchip kit and fill the scratch. I was pretty amazed at how well it blends into the factory paint. Here's a before and after pic of a scratch I fixed on my trunk. There is still a small area that I didn't finish because the clear coat was raised up around it and I didn't have the foresight to hit it with a buffer first.
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2015 2SS/RS vert, Spring Edition Green Flash (2015 - present)
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06-24-2016, 05:13 PM | #9 |
Drives: 2018 Hyper Blue 1SS 1LE Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Brownsburg, Indiana
Posts: 6,231
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I had a similar situation except my son swiped the rear of my car with his (my old) metal wagon. Pissed for a second then pulled out the tools and fixed it
Ryan
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Ryan
* 2018 1SS 1LE Camaro Hyper Blue Metallic Car Build: http://www.camaro6.com/forums/showth...0#post10049680 |
06-24-2016, 05:25 PM | #10 |
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BRZN! WOW!!!
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06-24-2016, 05:32 PM | #11 |
Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS/RS Black & Silver Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Richmond, VA
Posts: 8,228
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Dad to the rescue. Nice job!
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06-25-2016, 12:20 AM | #12 |
Drives: 2015 ZL1 Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Alberta
Posts: 274
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More courage than I have. Nice job
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2015 ZL1 M6
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06-25-2016, 07:17 AM | #13 | |
GEN5 Detail
Drives: 2011 Synergy Series 2SS Convertible Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Northeast, OH
Posts: 1,986
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Quote:
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06-25-2016, 08:36 PM | #14 |
Awesome job.
Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
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