Next big project

[cornerspeed92]

oh hell yeah,that was cool.That track looks so cool,thanks for sharing

[cornerspeed92]

Are those vents on your hood from hexvents.com?

[SSSoon]

Originally Posted by cornerspeed92

Are those vents on your hood from hexvents.com?

Yep. I love 'em.

I also opened up the mail slot last month using the ACS Composite kit, and put a SLP splitter on, all to shove more air into engine bay. When I go to the track, I also remove the rubber trim at the back of the hood (near the bottom of the front windshield) to get air through there. I'm always looking for other ways to keep things cool.

[cornerspeed92]

Nice looking ride man,did you remove your hood liner as well? i see your car is sticking her tongue out at me so back at you

[SSSoon]

Originally Posted by cornerspeed92

Nice looking ride man,did you remove your hood liner as well? i see your car is sticking her tongue out at me so back at you

I tried to cut the hood liner to open it up under the hex vents and just botched it up completely, so took it out. Apparently it is there because the engine can get hot enough to blister the paint on the hood. But once you have holes in your hood, I don't think the air underneath could get that hot, even if the car was sitting still.

[SSSoon]

Spent a day with a guy who builds race cars for a living. Great guy.

First thing first, we got the rear support posts mounted. The gap between the rear interior mounting plates and the fender walls were huge, and the posts were at the wrong angle - could not get the roll bars on without huge spacers underneath and that would not be safe. He ended up deciding to cut the post off the plates, mount the plates to the fender, then measure and fab up new posts and weld them in exactly the right spots. Worked like a charm.

We figured out the seat mounts and he started fabbing up metal plates for each side, and then we ran out of time. More tomorrow.

Here are some pics:

1. Old post provided with the roll bar kit vs. new post that fits. Note how big the difference is!

2. Rear plate ground down with no post on it, fastened to fender

3. Rear passenger side post once installed with interior trim back in place

4. Front passenger side post with trim back in place.

[cornerspeed92]

Thats pretty impressive you can do that,im thinking you need to be my neighbor

[SSSoon]

Originally Posted by cornerspeed92

Thats pretty impressive you can do that,im thinking you need to be my neighbor

Trust me, it's not me doing the metalwork. The guy I am working with builds drag cars and road course cars for a living, from tube frames up. I am seriously impressed with his skills - I'm just the helper.

[SSSoon]

Another day having fun modding the car, but gotta get back to work tomorrow. So, no more until next week some time.

We got the mounts figured out and fitted, the driver's seat anchored and adjusted, a mounting hoop welded to the roll bar, and started anchoring the harnesses into the floor. Good progress but not enough to get me on the track by Monday :( Looks like I'll have to postpone that trip to VIR for another time.

Pics below are

1. The roll bars use a 6mm Allen key but it gets REALLY old turning an Allen key in a tight space. My buddy welded the end of a 6mm Allen key onto a ratchet for me. Works amazingly well

2. Driver's seat installed. Steel strips hook into OEM floor mounts at front and bolt down at back using OEM bolts and locations.

3. Rear brace attached to roll bar

4. Rear post sticking out through finished seat

[cornerspeed92]

Thats a bummer about VIR,but you're sure getting a nice setup!

[SSSoon]

It's been a while since I updated. Work has me by the short and curlies right now.

A few pieces of advice:

1. If you are going to try to get removable roll bars, don't even think of installing them yourself unless you are a welder. It is 100% different from non-removable. With the non-removable you get the holes drilled, put the backing plates on, and crank like hell on the bolts and if it is half an inch out who cares. With removable, half an inch will kill you.

2. If you are going to install any race seats, 99% chance you'll need a welder too. Making the plates that mount to the car, but also, seats like Kirkeys need to attach to the roll bar. That means welding new tabs and loops on to the roll bar. It's a cinch for a welder but impossible for ordinary mortals.

3. If you are going to install race seats and swap them out regularly, kiss your interior goodbye. Mine is already scratched to hell and all I have done is taken the seats in and out maybe 6 times while we were fitting various things. Just about impossible to not scratch something, and metal gouges plastic deep. I'll bring my car to Camaro Fest so y'all can see the seats and laugh at the interior. I bet it will look like a badger got loose in there.

4. No matter what roll bars you buy, they WILL restrict the ability of your seat to move to its rearmost position and to recline. If you are tall and think you'll be driving around in OEM seats with fixed roll bars in place, think again.

5. If I had to do it over again I would just have gone to a local welder who does roll bars. Buying a kit that doesn't quite fit is a major PITA.

6. You'll be amazed how long it takes to get everything mounted.


I am hoping to finish up the final door bar on Tuesday. When it's done, it's gonna be awesome.

Pete

[SSSoon]

Originally Posted by SSSoon

1. The roll bars use a 6mm Allen key but it gets REALLY old turning an Allen key in a tight space. My buddy welded the end of a 6mm Allen key onto a ratchet for me. Works amazingly well

PS the very cool Allen key wrench broke when I cranked on it hard. I'm going to replace the Allen key bolts with regular hex head bolts. If I ever screw up the Allen key head I am completely screwed. At least with a hex head there are lots of options for getting it off. Not so with the Allen as it was deep into the bar, so the head was flush.

[SSSoon]

Finally, finished. We put the last door bar in today, manufactured some plastic shields for the rear posts (out of six inch plastic sewer pipe 90's) so that my kids don't get speared if I get t-boned, welded on new anchors for the rear harness eye bolts (the ones on the bar were sticking straight up, way too high once the eye bolt was threaded in), cleaned up some sharp edges and points, replaced all the trim, and declared victory.

Pix attached: driver's seat, harnesses, and me strapped in. Holy cow, once you are strapped in, if you left the door all the way open you have to completely unbuckle or you can't reach the door handle. It's TIGHT. But feels great.

Drove the car on some windy back roads for half an hour. Feels like a 470hp go cart. It is awesome. Yes you feel every bump but you feel every weight shift, every slight adjustment of everything. Awesome.

I realized I need to insert some foam for lumbar support, but that will be no big deal.

WHEW!

Next projects: boost gauge, some mesh to cover in where I opened my mail slot, a fancy little disconnect for the line lock so it doesn't trip the ABS computer. Also need to change the brake fluid, re-map the boost-a-pump to come on a little earlier (maybe max out at 130 instead of 140) and learn a little more about the new upgrade to Harry's Laptimer. It'll be a busy few weeks before my next track day.

Hope y'all found useful info in this thread if you are thinking of adding racing seats, roll bars and harnesses.

Pete

[cornerspeed92]

Very nice man!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!