How to remove the oil pan ?

[hou30guy]

How do i remove ny oil pan from my 2011 ss so i can drill and tap for turbo return line need help asap plz and thxs

[JCunningham]

have to remove engine or drop subframe. You can also cut the crossover out and weld it back in. There is some one on here that makes brackets to make the crossover bolt in.

[Soybeanrice]

Easiest route is getting the cross member cut and turning it into a bolt on like jcunningham said.

[Bo White]

www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=390453

[nikon2003]

Just did the cross member cut method myself. Worked out great

[JerTM]

Originally Posted by Bo White

www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=390453

Where did you get the brackets for the welded in crossmember?

[JakeW1990]

Even with the crossmember cut out (yes, I have mine flanged and bolt removable as well), to completely remove the pan, there's a great chance you're going to have to either drop the sub-frame around an inch or go by Advance Auto and grab the universal valley lift plate like I did. Bolts onto the valley plate under the intake manifold and allows a hoist to lift the motor up so you can have whatever access you need. Otherwise, the rack and pinion catches the front lip of the pan and pushes it into the pickup tube and you still can't get the pan off.

I guess if you have electric steering you won't even have to worry about it. Remove all of the 10mm oil pan bolts, 1 10mm bracket holding the power cables and AC lines, 1 10mm holding the power cables on the passenger side and I think 1 more originally on the driver side- maybe not. Last 3 times I've taken my pan off I haven't re-installed the driver side because its pointless and time consuming working from 18" jack stands. 1 10mm transmission dust cover on driver side and 1 10mm dust cover on the starter. 2 15mm transmission bolts located on the bottom of the bell housing. 2 18mm motor mount nuts- you won't have to lift the motor to the point the studs come out of the holes, even if you do it takes 10 seconds to re-align it.

The above procedure works without buying the flanges for the removable crossmember section if you use a cherry picker and lift the motor a few inches. You can rent a hoist for $30/day.

Please note, you will have to cut it out and weld the flanges onto your very own crossmember if you buy the kit. If you aren't a welder or fabber, I advise you to take it to a shop.

My pan has been off 3 times in the last 2 weeks and 5 in the last couple of months- unfortunately I have become a professional oil pan remover/install.

Have fun.

[CFD]

Actually if you remove the bolts for the steering rack it comes out without dropping the cradle or raising the motor

[JakeW1990]

Originally Posted by CFD

Actually if you remove the bolts for the steering rack it comes out without dropping the cradle or raising the motor

I would agree completely with that being I only have to raise the engine 1", but I have never removed the rack and pinion so I only instructed on how to do so by my means. Those tiny fluid lines look like they can bend real easy and so I deferred removing that at that exact moment. Lol. I may look closer at it if I have to go back in...But whoever is asking about who to purchase the flanges from, CFD is the guy soooo you can PM him since he commented in the thread. Lol.

[JerTM]

Food for though, you should get an alignment any time you move the rack, even if it looks like it's back in the same spot.

[CFD]

Originally Posted by JakeW1990

I would agree completely with that being I only have to raise the engine 1", but I have never removed the rack and pinion so I only instructed on how to do so by my means. Those tiny fluid lines look like they can bend real easy and so I deferred removing that at that exact moment. Lol. I may look closer at it if I have to go back in...But whoever is asking about who to purchase the flanges from, CFD is the guy soooo you can PM him since he commented in the thread. Lol.

I've not done it that way but I believe you just loosen or remove the bolts you don't need to touch the line or anything else. Maybe No White will answer that. He's done it that way.

[Bo White]

I just unbolted the rack and slid it forward.

[CFD]

Originally Posted by Bo White

I just unbolted the rack and slid it forward.

I mention this to everyone that buys the flanges and from what I've been hearing it works with all of them. When I first came up with the idea I was pressed for time and did it at a friends shop. I wasn't sure where I was going so I cut the cross member dropped the pan almost to the point of coming out so I just unbolted the baffle, took off the filter and flushed everything there. I actually drove around for a couple of weeks with no crossmember before I thought of the flanges so I suspected it would come out all the ways with a little playing around. Unbolting the rack and moving it seems to be the best way to go.

[Bo White]

You will need to align your steering wheel afterwards. There is slack in the bolt holes of the rack so you may have to loosen and shift a couple of times to get it back straight.