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Old 07-17-2019, 11:30 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by sixty9fordkiller View Post
I used that before in my 69 camaro (thats where my screename comes from btw ) and they are prone to failure. With these flow valves, im planning on opening them once a week and letting coolant circulate. I know where you're coming from. I dont like the idea of coolant just sitting in there and not circulating
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Originally Posted by sixty9fordkiller View Post
get a brass one if you do go that route, xc_SS/RS. My experience is that the plastic ones get brittle and crack over time.
Ahh good point I could definitely see the plastic piece leaking after some time. Did you find an H piece that's 3/4" & 5/8"?
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Old 07-17-2019, 12:12 PM   #30
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Ahh good point I could definitely see the plastic piece leaking after some time. Did you find an H piece that's 3/4" & 5/8"?
i like this one the best so far
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Old 07-17-2019, 04:11 PM   #31
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Powertolove - I too have read (in this same forum i believe) that some have done the correct repair (windshield and dash out) only for it to fail again. The very reason i decided against it at the last minute. I almost took the car in 2 weeks ago to get that done. Cancelled the appointment the day before.

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Yep the truth of it is they never address the real issue. The actuator doesn't feedback to the controller so the controller powers it until it breaks the door. Of course GM will never admit to this mess.
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Old 07-17-2019, 05:42 PM   #32
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Ok everything is ordered


(1) ultra pro ball valve 10an (5/8")
https://www.holley.com/products/plum...arts/230510ERL


(1) ultra pro ball valve 12an (3/4")
https://www.holley.com/products/plum...arts/230512ERL


(2) -10an Female to 5/8" barb
https://www.holley.com/products/plum...ts/AT700111ERL

(2) -12an straight female to 3/4" barb
https://www.holley.com/products/plum...ts/AT700113ERL

(1) Katech heater hose relocation kit
https://store.katechengines.com/heat...-kit-p273.aspx

(1) By aluminum by pass H pipe including 1/4" NPT brass flow bridge. 5/8" to 5/8" on the "from pump to heater core" side and 3/4" to 3/4" on the "from heater core to pump" side. Greg cut me in on a bit of a deal
https://jagsthatrun.com/collections/...ional-hose-tee


i spent a total of $449.15 on this only because i want it to as close as bulletproof as possible. I wanted high quality valves and h-pipe. That was the bulk of the cost, btw

It is possibile to do this for a lot less using a couple of less expensive $30 valves from jegs or summit and a plastic hpipe and probably a couple of gates hoses 28479 and 28472




Im also attaching an image of another custom LS swap water bypass H-PIPE i came acorss. Looks nice too
https://www.lojkits.com/products/ls-...r-bypass-block
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Old 07-18-2019, 08:24 AM   #33
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Saw the LOJ one too but I'm confused about how it works exactly. Does it need the Nissan temp sensor or something??
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Old 07-18-2019, 08:34 AM   #34
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no sensor is needed if using it on a car that came natively with an LS motor. Just use the allen plug that comes with it.

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Old 07-18-2019, 08:47 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sixty9fordkiller View Post
Ok everything is ordered


(1) ultra pro ball valve 10an (5/8")
https://www.holley.com/products/plum...arts/230510ERL


(1) ultra pro ball valve 12an (3/4")
https://www.holley.com/products/plum...arts/230512ERL


(2) -10an Female to 5/8" barb
https://www.holley.com/products/plum...ts/AT700111ERL

(2) -12an straight female to 3/4" barb
https://www.holley.com/products/plum...ts/AT700113ERL

(1) Katech heater hose relocation kit
https://store.katechengines.com/heat...-kit-p273.aspx

(1) By aluminum by pass H pipe including 1/4" NPT brass flow bridge. 5/8" to 5/8" on the "from pump to heater core" side and 3/4" to 3/4" on the "from heater core to pump" side. Greg cut me in on a bit of a deal
https://jagsthatrun.com/collections/...ional-hose-tee


i spent a total of $449.15 on this only because i want it to as close as bulletproof as possible. I wanted high quality valves and h-pipe. That was the bulk of the cost, btw

It is possibile to do this for a lot less using a couple of less expensive $30 valves from jegs or summit and a plastic hpipe and probably a couple of gates hoses 28479 and 28472




Im also attaching an image of another custom LS swap water bypass H-PIPE i came acorss. Looks nice too
https://www.lojkits.com/products/ls-...r-bypass-block
This information is pure gold. It's going in my files incase my blend door on either of my camaros goes out. Thanks for doing the research and putting this together!!!
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Old 07-18-2019, 09:10 AM   #36
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i should have everything delivered by monday. i will do a write up thread on the procedure and measurements (its pretty straight forward tho, not a big deal) with pictures. The heater hose relocation i was going to do anyway (the LOD manifold is gonna go on in a little over a month from now and i didnt want the heater hoses there anymore)


Im just glad that i dont have to pay $1700 plus the cost of the r&r and new windshield

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Old 07-18-2019, 09:37 AM   #37
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Hello all, my car is scheduled to go to have the actuator replaced monday so this is extremely awesome information to find.

Just to make sure that i have this all correctly, I could buy the device from the LOJ kit, plug it in, and be done? that is freaking awesome, i have to be missing something??

TIA
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Old 07-18-2019, 10:13 AM   #38
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Originally Posted by dddfx View Post
Hello all, my car is scheduled to go to have the actuator replaced monday so this is extremely awesome information to find.

Just to make sure that i have this all correctly, I could buy the device from the LOJ kit, plug it in, and be done? that is freaking awesome, i have to be missing something??

TIA
I think it's a crossover that would go before the Nissan piece that stops coolant flow to the heater core. This way, with an LSX swap in say a 350Z, the coolant is always flowing from the water pump and back.
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Z/28 intake, NW, FAST 102, speed engineering LT's, some exhaust, ATI -10% pulley, GM flex fuel injectors, DSX flex fuel sensor, MGW shifter, HP Tuners, some suspension work, stickers and a little weight loss. 12.63 @113.53
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Old 07-18-2019, 10:57 AM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dddfx View Post
Hello all, my car is scheduled to go to have the actuator replaced monday so this is extremely awesome information to find.

Just to make sure that i have this all correctly, I could buy the device from the LOJ kit, plug it in, and be done? that is freaking awesome, i have to be missing something??

TIA
the LOJ kit is a bypass to enable the use of a heater valve on vehicles that use a heater valve instead an HVAC blend door for heating and ac AND maintain native the coolant flow design of LS equipped cars. What im doing to my car is basically 2 manual heater valves (one for the hot side [the 5/8" side] and one for the return side [the 3/4" side]) and the "H" i got is gonna keep the engine happy as if nothing has changed


installing the LOJ kit alone does nothing at all by itself without a heater valve
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Old 07-18-2019, 10:58 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xc_SS/RS View Post
I think it's a crossover that would go before the Nissan piece that stops coolant flow to the heater core. This way, with an LSX swap in say a 350Z, the coolant is always flowing from the water pump and back.
exactly! the nissan uses a heater valve. the HVAC controls in those cars activate/deactivate a heater valve instead of a blend door. without the H pipe in place, a closed heater valve will block the return to the water pump, the thermostat will go nuts, and the engine would overheat until the heater valve is opened
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Old 07-18-2019, 01:43 PM   #41
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Originally Posted by sixty9fordkiller View Post
exactly! the nissan uses a heater valve. the HVAC controls in those cars activate/deactivate a heater valve instead of a blend door. without the H pipe in place, a closed heater valve will block the return to the water pump, the thermostat will go nuts, and the engine would overheat until the heater valve is opened
And that's exactly how it works lol I asked the company who makes them to be sure
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Old 07-19-2019, 01:10 PM   #42
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Bypass arrived today. Ordered it with a temp switch orifice for the new temp gauge i will be doing along with an oil pressure switch when i do the engine oil heater delete.

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