V8 manual question

[rviper24]

Bring this back! So what is the verdict on removing the spring? Yay? Nay?

[acammer]

I'm going to ping Frankwjr to comment here. We recently discussed in another thread his removed spring and his results. I think he'd find this discussion interesting.

I never did remove mine - for fear that the the transfer port to the reservoir would not open. Frank says that's not an issue - I'll let him provide some more input.

[Hooper]

I've had mine off for over a year. I'm a very good driver (Rain Man LOL) and been driving manuals for 30 years, and its amazing how much smoother the car drives. Further, I think it actually performs better under load. Lastly, absolutely no clutch slippage whatsoever. The spring's pressure curve is definitely an engineering flaw and I wish I had removed it from day 1.

[frankwjr]

per all of the previous peeps posts(and acammers poke) I too agree that the spring is not necessary...this http://www.rangeracceleration.com/Clutch_Care.html is what I follow to ensure the hydraulics are workin good...I personally have smoked this clutch 3 times BAD(literal cloud of clutch smoke)..in my sig you see what the car is doing and I leave the line at 5k or ABOVE when launching...if that spring really WAS required my sh!t should have grenaded long ago...don't take this the wrong way but I think a lot of peeps "think" they can drive a stick....only thing wrong with this clutch IMHO is it DOES NOT like heat....only time she's slipped even a little(when not my fault!) was doing round robin runs at the 1/4 ....hope that helps....peace out...

[christianchevell]

I have never been bothered by the spring myself...LOL The mid engagement window of the clutch is great and stock clutch or lt1s Monster both feel about the same and never had a problem that some have had with the spring on the pedal action pulling the pedal down or dead pedal.... or irregular spring tension feel in the movement of the pedal and usually just cover the pedal driving rarely not covering it on long drives as city driving is a lot of shifting.... I also though drive a 88 dodge truck with a 4 speed for work though that's pedal is limp as anything....

[xc_SS/RS]

I'll say the stock clutch can handle some abuse. I've smoked mine at the track really bad as well. Thought it was my burnout!

One thing I have found to help is to use the stock reservoir on the car, or upgrade to one with a large fluid capacity and a large enough outlet. I found the GTO reservoir would actually cause my clutch to hang up. Switched back to the brake fluid reservoir and no more clutch hanging unless it was really hot.

After I found that out I tried the Lingenfelter return spring. Once it was installed I no longer had a sticky pedal. If I bleed the clutch and brakes fully the pedal feels amazing for a few days and then it slowly starts to feel like crap.

I think the reservoir cap can cause problems as sometimes it does not keep a tight seal (fluid gets between the rubber and cap). When it has a tight seal, clutch feels great. I can't tell when the seal gets bad but I can tell a difference with a clean seal on the cap. This might affect the return of the pedal? Someone with a better understanding of hydraulics let me know if that is right or not...

Next thing I want to try is the stainless clutch line, but at that point I'll be dropping in a new clutch...

Can someone explain what this 'over spring' does?

[acammer]

Originally Posted by xc_SS/RS

I'll say the stock clutch can handle some abuse. I've smoked mine at the track really bad as well. Thought it was my burnout!

One thing I have found to help is to use the stock reservoir on the car, or upgrade to one with a large fluid capacity and a large enough outlet. I found the GTO reservoir would actually cause my clutch to hang up. Switched back to the brake fluid reservoir and no more clutch hanging unless it was really hot.

After I found that out I tried the Lingenfelter return spring. Once it was installed I no longer had a sticky pedal. If I bleed the clutch and brakes fully the pedal feels amazing for a few days and then it slowly starts to feel like crap.

I think the reservoir cap can cause problems as sometimes it does not keep a tight seal (fluid gets between the rubber and cap). When it has a tight seal, clutch feels great. I can't tell when the seal gets bad but I can tell a difference with a clean seal on the cap. This might affect the return of the pedal? Someone with a better understanding of hydraulics let me know if that is right or not...

Next thing I want to try is the stainless clutch line, but at that point I'll be dropping in a new clutch...

Can someone explain what this 'over spring' does?

Check out the video in this post for a good idea of what the spring does. Basically, it's there to assist in push the clutch down and holding it to the floor, and then it helps ensure the pedal travels completely to the top.

I run the GTO reservoir and the Ideal Garage clutch master cylinder. I have had no issues with a sticking pedal at any point, before or after those modifications. If you're still getting hangs when it's real hot, and you're 100% confident it's bleed properly, it might be time to go through the hydraulic system part by part.

The master cylinder is easy enough to change and may be a good place to start. If you decide to replace that, I'd consider the Ideal Garage clutch master cylinder. It's a modified OEM unit that flows a higher volume - opening the clutch faster and further for a given amount of pedal throw. It helps with fast shifting, some guys (like me) would encounter a grind or lockout on the 1-2 shift because the clutch was not disengaging sufficiently before starting the shift.

[xc_SS/RS]

Originally Posted by acammer

Check out the video in this post for a good idea of what the spring does. Basically, it's there to assist in push the clutch down and holding it to the floor, and then it helps ensure the pedal travels completely to the top.

I run the GTO reservoir and the Ideal Garage clutch master cylinder. I have had no issues with a sticking pedal at any point, before or after those modifications. If you're still getting hangs when it's real hot, and you're 100% confident it's bleed properly, it might be time to go through the hydraulic system part by part.

The master cylinder is easy enough to change and may be a good place to start. If you decide to replace that, I'd consider the Ideal Garage clutch master cylinder. It's a modified OEM unit that flows a higher volume - opening the clutch faster and further for a given amount of pedal throw. It helps with fast shifting, some guys (like me) would encounter a grind or lockout on the 1-2 shift because the clutch was not disengaging sufficiently before starting the shift.

So I think I’ll be taking that spring out tonight to see how it feels. Watching the pedal snap down like that is weird!

I haven’t gotten any hangs with the return spring on the pedal. Works great and shifts well. I have wanted to try the IG master to help the 1-2 shift so maybe I’ll start there.

[rviper24]

I've had my spring out for a few weeks now and I like it alot better!

[STALKER]

So in conjunction with removing the spring, who out there is running the GTO Reservoir, and Lingenfelter Spring at the same time? Also what is the consensus on the GTO Reservoir? I actually have all the parts to do it on my bench, just haven't installed it yet.

Ultimately this is the combo I think I'm going to go with...Just wanted to hear from some guys running that combo.

The only clutch issue I have experienced is one time the pedal stuck to the floor after a hard run on the car through the gears. I haven't tracked the car yet, but plan to, and I'm sure this issue will become more prevalent when I do if I don't do something about it now.

[gearhead6873]

So I test drove a 2018 SS the other day and loved everything about the car except the clutch. Hated it. Searching the net lead me here. Does anyone know if the gen6 has the same spring and has anyone tried to remove it on a gen6? Results? I really want that car but the clutch is almost bad enough to keep me from buying it. I know this is the gen5 forum, but I posted about this on Camaro6 and everyone there came down on me like a ton of bricks. They all think I'm crazy and just keep telling me to "get used to it". At least those posting in this thread seem to share my opinion about how this clutch feels.

[GPz1100]

It's been a while since I test drove a manual SS. 2016 model if I recall. What specific issue did you have with it? How long have you been driving manuals for?

I've been driving stick for 2+ decades over a number of different vehicles. I thought the clutch in the '16 MY had pretty good feel, wasn't stiff like that in my 4th gen. I do recall it grabbing near the top of the release as opposed to middle or closer to the floor.

[gearhead6873]

35 years. Overly soft with a springy, "cam" feel right at point of engagement. Just like people in this thread are describing the gen5 clutch. So I'm specifically asking if anyone happens to know if the gen6 has the same return spring set up that can be removed?

[phk36]

I have test driven four other gen 5 Camaro’s for a friend who bought an automatic.
One was as bad as mine the other three were really nice.
I ordered my Lingenfelter spring a month ago unfortunately it’s still on back order.
I do not know if the three other cars had that spring but I can tell you mine is worse than the one bad one I drove.
I wish I had bought an automatic. I know I would have more than 12,000 miles on it by now.
Just another problem to go with my shit convertible top that was never addressed properly