Cammed and superchared. Metal on oil dipstick - Page 2 - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

2010reddevil · 09-17-2017, 06:58 AM

Because even with a roller, it's still metal on metal. Without proper hardening of the cam lobe surface, they will wear prematurely. It's a pretty common thing with Comp Cam cores. Cammotion, GPI or others use a much better core for their grind. Hopefully it isn't anything serious though. Good luck!

Jayjellyfish212 · 09-17-2017, 11:01 AM

Sounds like you'll be ok and engine will be fine. Whatever the issue is , it sounds like you found a problem before it became a real problem. Just curious if the cam is a blower cam? Like the guys above said , sounds like cam metal flakes. For a piece of mind maybe pull the oil pan and see if it's clean now. Try to flush everything possible with fresh oil. Hope you find the culprit to the metal flakes. I agree to with you that there is always some super tiny metal specks in the oil when changing.

Camaro Dude · 09-17-2017, 11:19 AM

Oil lab analysis ASAP, so that way, you might get some sort of refund on that defective comp cam (which is what is suspect here).

Hoping it isnt, but lab test ASAAAP plz.

Pollock · 09-17-2017, 11:28 AM

Its is a blower cam. And the cam is roughly 5 years old. I hardly drive the car. Bought it new. Will do an oil sample soon. Have a lot going on.

Camaro Dude · 09-17-2017, 11:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pollock

Its is a blower cam. And the cam is roughly 5 years old. I hardly drive the car. Bought it new. Will do an oil sample soon. Have a lot going on.

Ok. The 5 year window throws any warranty prospects for labour down the toilet...

But a mere 4000 miles accumulated during that time,,,,,well, you know what I'm driving at here

.

I hear ya.

CFD · 09-17-2017, 12:06 PM

For what it's worth, my opinion on situations like this, is that you should do an oil analysis at the least, a possible tear down is needed. Reasoning behind this is that if there was metal in the oil something wore out, broke or came free ( such as with a burr missed during assembly) The fact that there is no additional flaking is possibly because what ever broke or wore out got drained with the oil but the clearances or tolerances of the related components are off and will eventually, if not sooner, do more damage.

Pollock · 09-27-2017, 07:29 PM

I also did the comp cam trunion upgrade. Been reading it has been failing for some. Anyone have any input. Will pull the valve covers in due time.

RankSS · 09-28-2017, 08:42 AM

I did the Comp Cams trunion downgrade and at 3000 miles they were badly worn.
Get those shitty things out of there asap.
I had metal flakes in my filter and am hoping there is no damage caused by this.
I went with Straub bushings. They seem to be doing the job without sabotaging my motor.

BiggFoot · 09-28-2017, 09:06 AM

Well you guys have my attention. I have a Comp Cams custom blower cam and the car has over 40000 miles on it. Still runs like a scalded dog and I am not aware of any issues.

UNRIVALED SS · 09-28-2017, 11:51 AM

Maybe a few details would help.

What's the hot oil pressure at idle? What's the idle rpm?

Do you know what your oil temps where at end of the 30 session?

My own two cents worth. If I'm going to beat on a motor, I run a dedicated racing oil and then change it after. What's a 100 bucks versus all the labor and money involved installing a shortblock. Oil life is relative to the way it is used. Just like anything else.

For what it's worth I think the best case is the trunnions are wearing in the rockers. Not sure how much damage that could do. Oil is draining down off the valve train to the pan and should be filtered before it gets back to the bottom end but it's not the best of circumstances.

racesloth · 09-29-2017, 05:48 AM

Trackdays and extended runs can starve the oil pump - the centrifugal forces in turns pushes the oil to the side fo the pan and at higher rpms the pump can starve. I would bet it is pieces of the cam and bits off of the roller rockers. Pull the intake and a head to inspect. This happened to a buddy of mine. I would not drive it even if it sounds okay as the metal in the oil can then get into the bearings and hammer the crank and rod ends....

hope it is no this though,

Pollock · 09-29-2017, 07:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by UNRIVALED SS

Maybe a few details would help.

What's the hot oil pressure at idle? What's the idle rpm?

Do you know what your oil temps where at end of the 30 session?

Hot oil pressure at 800 rpm idle is a tish over 30psi with mobil 15w50 and a tish under with mobil 5w30. What the car has always been.
The oil needle got near the 275 degree mark on the gauge. I would think it was in the 260 to 265 degree ballpark. Should be nothing for mobil 15W-50. I never go over 1000 miles on my oil. I have changed it 3 time this year so far.

As far as low oil pressure goes. Doesn't the car scream at you if you loose oil pressure. I ran a quart extra for the track and wasn't really pushing the car all that hard as it was my first time.

Anyway I hope to get the rockers off tomorrow.

UNRIVALED SS · 09-29-2017, 09:31 AM

I think you're ok. I would double check the top end just like everyone is saying.

Even if that's not what the problem is, at this point it doesn't matter. If it's bearings you're going to have to freshen it up anyway. 270 degrees on clean mobile 15-50 isn't going to hurt you. Not on one track day and then changing it. You're good on that, so that is reassuring at least.

I would check the rockers and do the oil sample analysis and run it.

Pollock · 09-29-2017, 06:23 PM

So I got 1 valve cover off and pulled one rocker. I am exhausted. The rocker feels great. And the only way to check to see for gaulling would be to disassemble the rockers. Can I put it back together or will I need a new trunion kit.
Might as well check them all but I dont see any signs of this being the problem. The top of the head looks spotless. No metal.

09-17-2017, 06:58 AM	#15
2010reddevil Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS Victory Red 6M Join Date: Apr 2015 Location: Gulf Coast, TX Posts: 1,424	Because even with a roller, it's still metal on metal. Without proper hardening of the cam lobe surface, they will wear prematurely. It's a pretty common thing with Comp Cam cores. Cammotion, GPI or others use a much better core for their grind. Hopefully it isn't anything serious though. Good luck! __________________ 2011 2SS 6A Red Jewel Metallic, Vararam Tune CAI, Magnaflow 3" Competition c/b, Speed Engineering 1-7/8 LT's, Circle D 5C, M/T 275/40R20 S/S, HPTuners tune by Ryan@GPI 12.3 @ 112 ACM as of 12/22/19 Gone on 12/28/19 R I P 2010 2SS 6M Victory Red/Black (old ride) CAI intake, Speed Engineering 1 7/8" LT's, X4 base tune, Flowmaster Outlaw axle-back. 12.6 @ 115 SAR as of 9/19/15 Gone but never forgotten.

09-17-2017, 11:01 AM	#16
Jayjellyfish212 Drives: 2014 1LE Join Date: Aug 2015 Location: Upstate NY Posts: 2,050 View My Garage	Sounds like you'll be ok and engine will be fine. Whatever the issue is , it sounds like you found a problem before it became a real problem. Just curious if the cam is a blower cam? Like the guys above said , sounds like cam metal flakes. For a piece of mind maybe pull the oil pan and see if it's clean now. Try to flush everything possible with fresh oil. Hope you find the culprit to the metal flakes. I agree to with you that there is always some super tiny metal specks in the oil when changing. __________________ Car mods: never enough!

09-28-2017, 08:42 AM	#22
RankSS Drives: 2010 Camaro SS Join Date: Oct 2013 Location: Saskatoon SK Can. Eh Posts: 365	I did the Comp Cams trunion downgrade and at 3000 miles they were badly worn. Get those shitty things out of there asap. I had metal flakes in my filter and am hoping there is no damage caused by this. I went with Straub bushings. They seem to be doing the job without sabotaging my motor. __________________ 2010 Camaro SS RS, Maggie with 3.4" pulley, 60# injectors, ADM dual fuel pumps, ADM Stage 2 Cam with Brian Tooley springs and pushrods, black CAI intake, Stainless Works long tube headers w/gutted cats, ZL1 Diff w/offset bushings, Pfadt lowering springs, Pfadt sway bars, Pfadt solid sub frame mounts, BMR trailing arms and toe rods, Hurst short throw shifter, Painted on Hugger Orange stripes, Forgestar F14 Piano Black wheels, Nitto NT05 rubber.

09-28-2017, 09:06 AM	#23
BiggFoot Drives: 2010 Camaro (M6) 1000+ HP SBE Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Houston Posts: 1,391	Well you guys have my attention. I have a Comp Cams custom blower cam and the car has over 40000 miles on it. Still runs like a scalded dog and I am not aware of any issues. __________________ F-1X, Cog Drive, ATI Super Pulley/Sprag ~ 19 psi Blower Cam Brodix BP BR 3 Heads Kooks LT Headers and full 3" exhaust Fore Triple Pump Fuel System with ID 1700X Injectors - E85 conversion DSS 9” Conversion (1400 hp axles, driveshaft, pumpkin) & Strange 3.70 gears McLeod RXT Twin HD Clutch & Upgraded Slave RPM Level VII TR6060 BMR Drag Suspension Package w/Strange shocks Carlyle 15" and M/T ET Street R radials 10.1 @ 143 mph 1/4 mile

09-28-2017, 11:51 AM	#24
UNRIVALED SS Drives: 2010 Camaro SS Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: El Paso Posts: 704 View My Garage	Details Maybe a few details would help. What's the hot oil pressure at idle? What's the idle rpm? Do you know what your oil temps where at end of the 30 session? My own two cents worth. If I'm going to beat on a motor, I run a dedicated racing oil and then change it after. What's a 100 bucks versus all the labor and money involved installing a shortblock. Oil life is relative to the way it is used. Just like anything else. For what it's worth I think the best case is the trunnions are wearing in the rockers. Not sure how much damage that could do. Oil is draining down off the valve train to the pan and should be filtered before it gets back to the bottom end but it's not the best of circumstances.

09-17-2017, 11:19 AM	#17
Camaro Dude Drives: ‘13 1LE Join Date: Jul 2013 Location: Earth Posts: 3,904	Oil lab analysis ASAP, so that way, you might get some sort of refund on that defective comp cam (which is what is suspect here). Hoping it isnt, but lab test ASAAAP plz.

09-17-2017, 11:28 AM	#18
Pollock LT4 M6 Drives: 2018 ZL1 1LE Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Bloomington, IN Posts: 1,249	Its is a blower cam. And the cam is roughly 5 years old. I hardly drive the car. Bought it new. Will do an oil sample soon. Have a lot going on.

09-17-2017, 12:06 PM	#20
CFD Drives: 2SS/RS L99 BLACK Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Franklin , MA Posts: 6,696	For what it's worth, my opinion on situations like this, is that you should do an oil analysis at the least, a possible tear down is needed. Reasoning behind this is that if there was metal in the oil something wore out, broke or came free ( such as with a burr missed during assembly) The fact that there is no additional flaking is possibly because what ever broke or wore out got drained with the oil but the clearances or tolerances of the related components are off and will eventually, if not sooner, do more damage.

09-27-2017, 07:29 PM	#21
Pollock LT4 M6 Drives: 2018 ZL1 1LE Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Bloomington, IN Posts: 1,249	I also did the comp cam trunion upgrade. Been reading it has been failing for some. Anyone have any input. Will pull the valve covers in due time.

09-29-2017, 05:48 AM	#25
racesloth Dan Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS IOM Join Date: Nov 2013 Location: Georgia, USA not the other one Posts: 1,041	Trackdays and extended runs can starve the oil pump - the centrifugal forces in turns pushes the oil to the side fo the pan and at higher rpms the pump can starve. I would bet it is pieces of the cam and bits off of the roller rockers. Pull the intake and a head to inspect. This happened to a buddy of mine. I would not drive it even if it sounds okay as the metal in the oil can then get into the bearings and hammer the crank and rod ends.... hope it is no this though, __________________ Dan 2010 IOM SS YSI-B, Pat G Cam, Ported CTS-V Heads, ARH LTs MBRP 3" exhaust http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...&highlight=ysi Last edited by racesloth; 09-29-2017 at 04:14 PM.

09-29-2017, 09:31 AM	#27
UNRIVALED SS Drives: 2010 Camaro SS Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: El Paso Posts: 704 View My Garage	OK I think you're ok. I would double check the top end just like everyone is saying. Even if that's not what the problem is, at this point it doesn't matter. If it's bearings you're going to have to freshen it up anyway. 270 degrees on clean mobile 15-50 isn't going to hurt you. Not on one track day and then changing it. You're good on that, so that is reassuring at least. I would check the rockers and do the oil sample analysis and run it.

09-29-2017, 06:23 PM	#28
Pollock LT4 M6 Drives: 2018 ZL1 1LE Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Bloomington, IN Posts: 1,249	So I got 1 valve cover off and pulled one rocker. I am exhausted. The rocker feels great. And the only way to check to see for gaulling would be to disassemble the rockers. Can I put it back together or will I need a new trunion kit. Might as well check them all but I dont see any signs of this being the problem. The top of the head looks spotless. No metal.