New DSS 1 pc aluminum and axle install issues.

[Imjaybird]

I have a 2010 2SS RS M6 V8 with stock tranny and rear end.
So after waiting for a month my new DSS one piece aluminum driveshaft showed up. After getting everything apart and mounting the end flanges the driveshaft was very tight going in. The recommended gap is 3.25 - 3.75. Mine is 3.10, this being below the min. there is almost no contraction, maybe 0.020. This could obviously cause binding issues. The total distance from the output 3 bolt flange to input 3 bolt flange is 55.25 inches. From the driveshaft u jouint bearing center to driveshaft end cap is 47 5/16.

Another issue is there is almost no clearance to rubbing of the parking brake lines to the drive shaft.

Something is obviously wrong and I'm going to call them in them morning.

Has anyone else had an issue like this? What was your resolution to the driveshaft being too long by about 0.200. Obviously I will find out tomorrow but wanted to know if anyone has tried reducing the rear end plate thickness or something else? Thanks.

[Black_SS10]

I'm sure DSS will get you squared away. They seem very helpful on the forums and anytime I have contacted them. Let us know what they say.

[Driveshaftshop]

all cars are manufactured with tolerances, the Camaro seems to have more of a "loose" one. i would say 1 out of every 800 shafts will have to made a different length, im still not sure why this is. It may br cradle movement or bushings but the cust is to make a measurement on the car and make the shaft fit. just contact up and ill rush one thru.

Frank

[Imjaybird]

Just got off the phone with DSS, apparently my condition is rare, story of my life. They are sending out a shorter driveshaft ASAP.

[Black_SS10]

Originally Posted by Imjaybird

Just got off the phone with DSS, apparently my condition is rare, story of my life. They are sending out a shorter driveshaft ASAP.

Awesome. They are great to work with and stand behind their products. Glad you got it figured out.

[Imjaybird]

So I got the replacement driveshaft installed last week without issue.
I now have a new issue after putting in the new DSS axles. I have a clicking popping noise in the right rear that is fairly constant while in gear, fwd or reverse. Constant being 1 or 2 klunks/pings every 10 feet or so. Never took it over 5 mph and turned right around to my shop. Put back on the lift and did not see anything interfering. Issue sounds like the crush washer noise that has been reported on here. I reused the original factory 3 tab washers, should I have used new ones? I did not remove the hubs when replacing the axles, I undid the trailing arms and pivoted the entire assembly of out of the way .
The internal ends of the factory axels that go in the rear end looked beat up a little bit. The pins on the inside of the rear end look polished like they were being hit by the factory axels.
There is about 0.10 slop in the axles, I can basically move them back and forth in the rear end making them hit something in the rear end, i assume the pins, they are fully engaged though.
Another call to DSS in the morning.

[Black_SS10]

I am really tired so I apologize if this is nowhere near relevant. But did you have the axle clicking before? There is a TSB about the axle clicking and the remedy is new thrust washers and axle nuts. Plus the axle nuts need to be torqued to 199ftlbs. There are a number of 2010 Camaro's that were built, shipped, and sold without these washers even installed. Maybe this could be the problem?

[Imjaybird]

Originally Posted by Black_SS10

I am really tired so I apologize if this is nowhere near relevant. But did you have the axle clicking before? There is a TSB about the axle clicking and the remedy is new thrust washers and axle nuts. Plus the axle nuts need to be torqued to 199ftlbs. There are a number of 2010 Camaro's that were built, shipped, and sold without these washers even installed. Maybe this could be the problem?

No noise before the swap.
I had factory washers on the old axles, which I transferred to the new DSS axles.
The factory washers seemed to have a small amount of rubber on the ID?
I torqued to 199-210 ft-lbs.
I only have 17,000 spirited miles on the car.

[Imjaybird]

Just got off the phone with DSS and was told poping is normal for the first 100 miles or so? If that was the case wouldn't new cars do this then? I'll take it out and cross my fingers.
Just to clarify the noise is steady while driving fwd/rev and not just when putting in and out of gear, but does start as the clutch is engaged. I did hear the noise faintly while coasting in neutral also. My fear is driving it and making it worse or breaking something that could have been avoided by a simple fix.

[MA2010SS]

Make sure the DS isn't tapping the heat shield or brake cables also. I had zero popping noise when I did my DSS DS and axles, did have an issue with vibration from the DS which they replaced and everything was good after that.

[Imjaybird]

Originally Posted by MA2010SS

Make sure the DS isn't tapping the heat shield or brake cables also. I had zero popping noise when I did my DSS DS and axles, did have an issue with vibration from the DS which they replaced and everything was good after that.

Yup, that was one of the first things I checked because it sounds like one of the counterweights was hitting something, but less frequent. More per wheel revolution than driveshaft. I did not reinstall the most reward heat shield.

I'm just concerned it may be something in the rear end as this all started with me breaking the stock driveshaft. I will probably pull it apart tonight and see whats up. Maybe put the rear on stands with it in gear I don't trust driving it and expecting the noise its making to just go away. Who knows maybe the washer fell out when I was contorting the axle into place...

[Imjaybird]

So after much investigation I found the rear sub frame is pivoting up a lot under load moving the driveshaft causing the counterweights to hit the e-brake cable. I made a temporary bracket to pull the cable out of the way but need a relocation kit of some kind. Does anyone know of a brake relocation kit?
Also looks like solid sub frame bushings are in my future...

[MA2010SS]

Originally Posted by Imjaybird

So after much investigation I found the rear sub frame is pivoting up a lot under load moving the driveshaft causing the counterweights to hit the e-brake cable. I made a temporary bracket to pull the cable out of the way but need a relocation kit of some kind. Does anyone know of a brake relocation kit?
Also looks like solid sub frame bushings are in my future...

Wonder if the stock bushings are wiped out?? Solid bushings are great for track use but will drive you nuts if this is your daily driver unfortunately

[Bo White]

I run poly mounts. I've got 80k miles on them.