DSS driveline problem HELP - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

Skoonie · 09-16-2016, 11:56 PM

So after tearing up 3 stock driveshaft support bearings I gave up and bought a Dss shaft. Installed it yesterday and had some terrible noise under load going forward but nothing in reverse. I pulled it back in the garage and took a peek and found it was rubbing on the rear heat shield, the exhaust was still hot so I decided to call it a night.

After work today I tore it back down and removed the heat shield and found it was rubbing in multiple places, put it back together without the shield and had a new noise, this time it was a balance weight from the shaft hitting the parking brake cable. I tried to re-position the cable but after 1 launch it was hitting again.

I tried doing some searching and every person with a problem had 10 other people telling them they had the same setup and no problems. My car has 75k on it and as far as I can tell the fuel tank has not been removed, after looking back at previous driveline failures I am starting to wonder if I have a cradle problem.

Car is lowered on BMR springs, makes 465 rwtq and all these problems started when i put sticky tires on it. M6, any input welcome.

hammdo · 09-17-2016, 01:08 PM

First, have you updated the rear suspension at all ( toe rods, trailing ages, cradle bushings, etc). If not, you may have a lot of movement with sticky tires etc. Do you have any noise when driving normally?

May need to check suspension components in the rear to make sure...

I upgraded my rear suspension first before I put in the DSS items...

-Don

Skoonie · 09-17-2016, 02:19 PM

I have not, and not much noise at all. There is only like .200 clearance between the driveline and parking brake cable without considering the balancing washers on the shaft, and this is with the car up on stands. I do have a bit of movement at the shifter and while the trans mount is not torn it does have quite a bit of stretch when I put a pry bar to it. I am considering shimming the trans cradle down and see if it helps the problem, not as a fix but to try to see what end of the car to start investing in mounts and bushings.

*SSE 4 2SS* · 09-17-2016, 07:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Skoonie

I have not, and not much noise at all. There is only like .200 clearance between the driveline and parking brake cable without considering the balancing washers on the shaft, and this is with the car up on stands. I do have a bit of movement at the shifter and while the trans mount is not torn it does have quite a bit of stretch when I put a pry bar to it. I am considering shimming the trans cradle down and see if it helps the problem, not as a fix but to try to see what end of the car to start investing in mounts and bushings.

As was mentioned up there, a cradle check may be in order.

I run a 4" one piece driveshaft and have no rub issues. I did remove the heat shielding in front of the rear cradle.... I had a DSS 3.5 inch shaft and a different transmission made me move to the 4" piece... Never had rub issues...

Something else to check, are there any rub marks at the tunnel brace location... When I first did some work under my car, I installed it upside down. rubbed bad... Now I don't even have it in the car..... haven't had it for years...

I wouldn't lower the rear trans mount as it adversely affects the pinion angle. A quick trip to the alignment shop and tell them what you want to check... make sure everything is properly located... and then get some seriously better suspension bits. Not only trailing arms and toe rods, but some good bushings... These cradles are known to move a lot.

Skoonie · 09-17-2016, 08:28 PM

Cradle bushings are relatively cheap so I am going to start there as well as diff bushings. If that fixes my problem I will buy the trailing and toe rods and install prior to getting it aligned again. Any recommendations on bushings?

Skoonie · 09-21-2016, 10:21 PM

Well I got my cradle bushings installed and it gave me another .200 clearance between the driveline and the parking brake cables so it looks like it might even clear the rear heat shield. New problem is my shaft is measuring a bit long now. DSS says clearance between the CV knuckle and shaft must be between 3.25-3.75 I only have 3.175 and the shaft won't collapse enough to install without moving the diff with a pry bar.

I decided not to change the diff bushings because I read a lot of people having NVH problems with aftermarket bushings. I am wondering if changing the bushings in the diff might move the location enough to pick up another .100, or if I should just send the shaft back to get adjusted. Thoughts?

Driveshaftshop · 09-22-2016, 11:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Skoonie

Well I got my cradle bushings installed and it gave me another .200 clearance between the driveline and the parking brake cables so it looks like it might even clear the rear heat shield. New problem is my shaft is measuring a bit long now. DSS says clearance between the CV knuckle and shaft must be between 3.25-3.75 I only have 3.175 and the shaft won't collapse enough to install without moving the diff with a pry bar.

I decided not to change the diff bushings because I read a lot of people having NVH problems with aftermarket bushings. I am wondering if changing the bushings in the diff might move the location enough to pick up another .100, or if I should just send the shaft back to get adjusted. Thoughts?

its amazing how much they really move, the CV will work from 3" so you would be ok, i do have a special diff bushing that is better then the stock but not real hard like others if you want to try them. you are supposed to mount the CV end 1st, then the flange im sure thats why it seemed so tight.

Skoonie · 09-22-2016, 12:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Driveshaftshop

its amazing how much they really move, the CV will work from 3" so you would be ok, i do have a special diff bushing that is better then the stock but not real hard like others if you want to try them. you are supposed to mount the CV end 1st, then the flange im sure thats why it seemed so tight.

Thank you for the input, I would be interested in your Diff bushings. Can you give me a part number to reference when I call?

Driveshaftshop · 09-23-2016, 09:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Skoonie

Thank you for the input, I would be interested in your Diff bushings. Can you give me a part number to reference when I call?

just shoot me a PM with your full name and address

olblue75 · 09-23-2016, 10:59 AM

Id be interested in bushings as well.

09-16-2016, 11:56 PM	#1
Skoonie Drives: 2010 SS M6 Join Date: Aug 2015 Location: McMinnville OR Posts: 68	DSS driveline problem HELP So after tearing up 3 stock driveshaft support bearings I gave up and bought a Dss shaft. Installed it yesterday and had some terrible noise under load going forward but nothing in reverse. I pulled it back in the garage and took a peek and found it was rubbing on the rear heat shield, the exhaust was still hot so I decided to call it a night. After work today I tore it back down and removed the heat shield and found it was rubbing in multiple places, put it back together without the shield and had a new noise, this time it was a balance weight from the shaft hitting the parking brake cable. I tried to re-position the cable but after 1 launch it was hitting again. I tried doing some searching and every person with a problem had 10 other people telling them they had the same setup and no problems. My car has 75k on it and as far as I can tell the fuel tank has not been removed, after looking back at previous driveline failures I am starting to wonder if I have a cradle problem. Car is lowered on BMR springs, makes 465 rwtq and all these problems started when i put sticky tires on it. M6, any input welcome.

09-17-2016, 01:08 PM	#2
hammdo 'It's an experiment' Drives: [COTW 2/09/15] '11 GPI LSA SC Z/LE Join Date: May 2014 Location: Dallas TX Posts: 8,694 View My Garage	First, have you updated the rear suspension at all ( toe rods, trailing ages, cradle bushings, etc). If not, you may have a lot of movement with sticky tires etc. Do you have any noise when driving normally? May need to check suspension components in the rear to make sure... I upgraded my rear suspension first before I put in the DSS items... -Don __________________ 747 RWHP 794 RWTQ "Horsepower sells cars, torque wins races." - Enzo Ferrari See My Build: http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=385577

09-23-2016, 10:59 AM	#10
olblue75 Drives: 2010 2SS/RS Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Clarksville Tennesse. Posts: 6,063	Id be interested in bushings as well. __________________ Orange Krush II 1LE Front sway bar, Splitter, shocks and struts, Z28 dual mode mufflers, Intake, UCA Bushings, and Toresen 3.91 Diff. 1 piece DSS Drive Shaft, ZL1/C7 Calipers, and 32mm JPSS Rear Bar. ASC race spec splitter and wicker. 6th Gen M017 Wheels. Stainless Works 1 7/8 LTs. DSE and PAFDT Suspension components.

09-17-2016, 02:19 PM	#3
Skoonie Drives: 2010 SS M6 Join Date: Aug 2015 Location: McMinnville OR Posts: 68	I have not, and not much noise at all. There is only like .200 clearance between the driveline and parking brake cable without considering the balancing washers on the shaft, and this is with the car up on stands. I do have a bit of movement at the shifter and while the trans mount is not torn it does have quite a bit of stretch when I put a pry bar to it. I am considering shimming the trans cradle down and see if it helps the problem, not as a fix but to try to see what end of the car to start investing in mounts and bushings.

09-17-2016, 08:28 PM	#5
Skoonie Drives: 2010 SS M6 Join Date: Aug 2015 Location: McMinnville OR Posts: 68	Cradle bushings are relatively cheap so I am going to start there as well as diff bushings. If that fixes my problem I will buy the trailing and toe rods and install prior to getting it aligned again. Any recommendations on bushings?

09-21-2016, 10:21 PM	#6
Skoonie Drives: 2010 SS M6 Join Date: Aug 2015 Location: McMinnville OR Posts: 68	Well I got my cradle bushings installed and it gave me another .200 clearance between the driveline and the parking brake cables so it looks like it might even clear the rear heat shield. New problem is my shaft is measuring a bit long now. DSS says clearance between the CV knuckle and shaft must be between 3.25-3.75 I only have 3.175 and the shaft won't collapse enough to install without moving the diff with a pry bar. I decided not to change the diff bushings because I read a lot of people having NVH problems with aftermarket bushings. I am wondering if changing the bushings in the diff might move the location enough to pick up another .100, or if I should just send the shaft back to get adjusted. Thoughts?