2014 SIM 1SS/1LE Search & Build Thread

[cdb95z28]

Separate Clutch Reservoir-Wilwood-Everyone here knows the issues of the hydraulics on the M6 LS3 Camaros. The consensus is that a separate clutch reservoir is beneficial. One option is the GTO reservoir, but it is extremely small. Others mentioned the Wilwood 7 oz. kit and I did not find anything else that was reasonably priced and offered the same potential.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wil-260-11098




As it comes, the Wilwood cap is vented, yet not isolated from atmsphere. I would rather have this similar to the GM cap, vented and isolated. I removed the Wilwood's cap insert and gasket.


I took my Camaro's brake master cylinder resevoir cap off and removed its rubber diaphram to see if it would fit in the Wilwood cap. From upper left, to clockwise, Wilwood inner cap insert, Wilwood cap with GM diaphram, OE Camaro brake/clutch reservoir cap, Wilwood cap gasket



Pop off the inner cap insert of the Wilwood. The cap has a raised ring in the middle, it needs to be removed, so the GM diaphragm fits nice. Used a Dremel. I also increased the size of the tiny hole on the outside of the Wilwood cap so it will allow enough deflection in the GM diaphram as it was designed to do. The Wilwood cap with a larger vent hole and the trimmed GM diaphragm worked. Initially I bled via the Tick and a Mity-vac and drained down my reservoir to nealy the bottom. When I removed the Wilwood cap the diaphragm was extended as designed.


Modded GM diaphragm. Trim the OD just a tiny bit so it sits in the Wilwood cap. I might have trimmed a bit to much. You can buy another GM diaphragm at your local Autozone or Advance Auto, look for the Dorman HELP! section, part # 42072. This is the same as the OE GM diaphragm on the master cylinder:
http://www.finddormanhelp.com/Search?q=42072


GM diaphragm sitting on top of Wilwood reservoir. Nice seal.


Here is the brake master cylinder and the two screws that are used to fasten the reservoir mount. The JDP bracket uses only one of those screws, the screw furthest from the brake booster. I mount mine in both places. I did not reuse the OE screws, I got 2 stainless hex heads that are a little bit longer. They are metric, 6mm diameter. I did not write down the size, about a 1/2" longer than stock, which makes them about a 40mm long bolt. And I had to use 2 spacers to pull the bracket away from the bulge of the brake master cylinder. You can see this bulge in this pic.


I made this aluminum bracket. I mounted the Wilwood reservoir mount (in black) to it. Also shown are the bolts and spacers I mentioned above. The tips of the bolts needed reduced so they can go into the brake reservoir.


This is the hose I used. BMW clutch hose part # 21-52-1-163-714. $10 at my local BMW dealer, was not in stock, they got it the next day. Used the clamps that came with the Wilwood clamp.
To close off the clutch line port on the brake reservoir I used NAPA part # 6601698, 3/8" EPDM rubber, my local NAPA had it, $3, clamped it with a hardware store sourced clamp.

[cdb95z28]

This is an interesting pic. I sucked out the fluid from the clutch side of the brake reservoir. I did this so when I removed the OE clutch line I would not have a rush of brake fluid run out of the port. Now when you remove the fluid, you are not going to pull out all the fluid in the brake reservoir. Why? There is a baffle within the reservoir, you can damn near remove all the fluid on the clutch side of the baffle. There has been reports of some losing their brakes upon loss of control of the clutch (clutch pedal sticking down, unresponsive clutch). If this does happen, I do not think it is because of fluid loss. If the clutch loses fluid the brake side will still have adequate fluid level.

The flashlight shining into the brake reservoir shows the segregations


If I had to do it again, I should have made the aluminum bracket so that the Wilwood reservoir sat higher. Since the Wilwood's hose barb is vertical the hose actually runs downhill then back up to the clutch master cylinder. I would much rather have the hose run continually up from the clutch master to the reservoir so no air is trapped. When I first bled, I jiggled the hose and more air came up to the Wlwood. I did a final bleed with a Motive PowerBleeder (# 1108) along with my Tick and I am satisfied there is no air. Time will tell.

[cdb95z28]

Tick Bleeder-Member h018871 had a great thread on installing the Tick Bleeder without removing the trans. Thread http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=337717

I did have a couple small improvements, I also used a 7/16" crow's foot as he suggested, but I attached a 3/8 to 1/4 adapter to it then used a 1/4" drive 3" extension. I then taped the crows foot, the adapter and the extension all together so it would all stay together, minimizing anything falling into the bellhousing. It was easier to maneuver into the hole because of less weight. And there was enough room with the 1/4" drive setup that I could use my ratchet, instead of the breaker bar.


I also taped a mirror above the area I was working so I could see where the Tick needed to go and also see the fitting as I tightened. You can see the mirror and the image of inside the bellhousing in this pic:


Now when I first installed the Tick into the hole and attempted to hit the threads I blocked my mirror, but luck was with me and I hit the threads right off the bat. I could not believe I got that lucky and I gave the Tick a twist and it started right into the threads. Member ADR01T had another great idea by using his iPhone to help find the hole. This can be seen on the above link.

One other thing.....PATIENCE, PATIENCE!!!! Keep your and take your time!!! You DO NOT WANT TO:

-Crossthread the Tick into the slave. Remember the slave housing is aluminum
-Drop your tools or OE bleeder into the bellhousing. Keep you hands clean, keep any grease or brake fluid of your fingers, because you need all the grip you can get to hold onto the OE bleeder and your tools. And no gloves, when working with small things, keep the gloves off

Do this

not this

[cdb95z28]

While I had the clutch line disconnected at the slave for the Tick bleeder install, I installed a 3' long piece of Cool-it Thermo-Sleeve part # 14010
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/the-14010
A little heat protection for the clutch line.

I also used the Motive PowerBleeder (#0108) to flush and bleed the hydraulics. I used 10PSI max. I had to make my own adapter for the Wilwood reservoir. I bought another Wilwood cap and drilled and tapped it to fit a 1/4" pipe nipple and hose to connect to the Motive. I used Motul 600 in the hydraulics.


The 0108 Motive comes with the correct adapter to use on the brake master cylinder (left adapter). I use the MixMizer syringe to suck out old brake fluid prior to flushing/bleeding.

[Gruby2k]

Love the car and the tread! Thanks for all the good info and ideas!

[cdb95z28]

RideTechs on their way! Thanks Tyler @ JDP Motorsports!
I am unsure whether I will do stand-alone camber/caster plates (Morenos) as the RideTechs do have some adjustability. So before the roads here in PA get cleaned up I still have to install those RideTechs, time the bushings, and tweek the alignment.

[cdb95z28]

Originally Posted by Gruby2k

Love the car and the tread! Thanks for all the good info and ideas!

Good choice on you color selection

[Pushrod Pete]

I love this journal. Big fan of all the functional modifications.

I've already incorporated quite a few of ideas from this thread onto my 1le.

Keep us updated, mr. cdb95z28.

[cdb95z28]

Will do Pushrod Pete!

[Pushrod Pete]

Any issues getting those OE ZL1 wind deflectors on? I've been thinking about adding those, but I noticed a lot of people are having issues with them on the 14/15 models.

[cdb95z28]

Yep. I just exchanged a couple PMs with another 1LE owner. I had to do some trimming on the inner mount area of the deflectors. I also just redid them the last few days as the supplied double sided tape does not do enough to make them fit nice and tight. I am at work right now and I did take a better pic but you can look at this one



You can click on the pic to open it up on my photobucket page. Click on the magnifying glass (view image) and it will open up much bigger for the details.

[cdb95z28]

More thoughts on the ZL1 deflectors:

Today I looked at a used '14 ZL1 at a local dealership. The deflectors fit more flush with the edge of the bumper cover than they do on my 1LE. This is due to the inner step on the front bumper cover and there is no way to change this without destroying the means to fasten the deflectors.

While the application of these ZL1 deflectors on a '14 1LE (or possibly other Camaros) is not a perfect fit, they still fit with some consistency and still look good.

Here are some pics of my modified deflectors. I had to trim some of the mounting area. If you buy these, compare them to mine and you will get an idea were to trim. If I remember correctly I also drilled holes in both the deflector and the bumper cover and installed one of those push pin fasteners that GM uses at alot of places. You can see those fasteners in the above pic. Take your time and creep up on the fit. The deflectors come with double sided tape installed, but I doubled up on the dape because there is a small lip on the edge of the bumper cover and if you do not add that second layer of double sided tape the tape will never stick to the bumper cover. The pics of my deflectors has the tape removed when I took the pic. I recently redid the double sided tape as I originally had not doubled it up. It is much better now and I am happy.





Though it is tough to see in this pic, you can get an idea of how they fit. I'll try to get a better pic tomorrow.

[Pushrod Pete]

[cdb95z28]