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Old 03-02-2011, 11:28 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by Dire Wolf View Post
Call Brandon at MarylandSpeed.com - he will answer all your questions and he will hook you up with the best deal anywhere.
As mentioned - contact Brandon at Maryland.....he has access to several company's who professionally coat & can save you CASH $$$ !

Ask yourself; is $139.00 too much to invest when you already spent $35k plus??? To most, it's a no brainer.....
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Old 03-02-2011, 02:26 PM   #16
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To me, looks are just as important as the performance.Like every one said,Brandon at Maryland Speed in my opinon is the best guy to deal with.If I am not mistaken, they often have specials wth reduced coating costs.Call him!
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Old 03-02-2011, 03:31 PM   #17
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I've had two different coatings on my cars

I now have uncoated kooks headers on my car.

I will never again get any part of my exhaust coated.
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Old 03-02-2011, 04:09 PM   #18
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I've had two different coatings on my cars

I now have uncoated kooks headers on my car.

I will never again get any part of my exhaust coated.
Please elaborate. Sounds like you have a story to tell.
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Old 03-02-2011, 05:26 PM   #19
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both coatings failed in a year and a half. my y-pipe's coating was completely gone and from about halfway down the primaries all the way down to the collectors on the headers were gone.

Header coating was the factory ceramic coating from Hooker (a reputable header company)

Y-pipe coating was from Jet-Hot.

People like to come up with the "I can touch my exhaust 5 minutes after I turn my car off" line.

Honestly.... who the hell touches their headers within 5 minutes of taking it off?

I fail to see how it reduces underhood temperatures by any substantial amount in real world scenarios. When you drive your car, and want it to perform it's best, is it sitting there in it's own heat, or is it going down the road, with winds gusting the heat away from the intake?

Here's a little home experiment. Get a 100w lamp and take off the shade. turn it on and leave it on for a good bit (we will say 10-15 mins) to heat up. The light bulb will simulate your exhaust. Place said lamp about 2 feet in front of a fan (roughly the distance between your exhaust and your intake inlet. Turn the fan on, with it pointed TOWARDS the bulb(to simulate the wind.... unless you have a badass fan, it will no where near simulate the actual wind speeds your car experiences).

Now place your hand against the fan as so:

Light bulb
0 ----------2 feet --------- Hand Fan


If you can feel the heat from the light bulb.... get the coating.

Just my $.02
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Old 03-02-2011, 06:33 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danhr View Post
People like to come up with the "I can touch my exhaust 5 minutes after I turn my car off" line.

Honestly.... who the hell touches their headers within 5 minutes of taking it off?
Sir....Sir!

Just so you know, I like to complete my daily commute by licking the headers very slowly. This would not be possible without Jet hot....


...just fyi
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Old 03-02-2011, 06:54 PM   #21
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Sir....Sir!

Just so you know, I like to complete my daily commute by licking the headers very slowly. This would not be possible without Jet hot....


...just fyi
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Old 03-02-2011, 06:57 PM   #22
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I've only had headers on my 2010 for about 6 mths now but I have ceramic coated Hooker Super Comps on my '69 for over 12 yrs now and they are in great condition. Never had any flaking or coating coming off. The may not as shiney as the first day but they are very close. I'm sure if I took the time to hand polish them they would be just like new.

That's why I did mine. Cosmetic reasons.
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Old 03-02-2011, 07:18 PM   #23
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Got mine coated and they look awesome! Will do it again on my next one as well.
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Old 03-02-2011, 10:14 PM   #24
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Just to quote my post in the other thread-
Quote:
It is a 50/50 thing. I personally like coating and about half our customers go with it. It keeps the heat down, and the header looking great. We dynoed a car recently with coated headers, and you could touch the header 5 mins after the dyno. It had cooled down that much. Not so with uncoated stainless. That being said, I don't think anything is hotter than the cast iron under the hood..so I don't think not coating your headers is the end of the world.

Coating is kind of a polarizing thing.

First off, people need to realize is that people use the term "Jet Hot" to universally describe coating. Kinda like when you copy something, you "Xerox" it. Jet Hot is one of many companies that offer coating service. Most of them use chemicals from the same supplier, but the difference is in how the parts are cleaned, and the coating is applied. Jet Hot is second to none in this regard. There is a lot that goes into cleaning and blasting the headers that other places cannot have, or do not do. They also have great QC, and hell, even in the precoating inspection, they have found defects that a customer would not even pick out. However because anyone who has basically a powdercoat setup can do coatings, there are a lot of half assed coating jobs out there that get attributed to Jet Hot, even though they did not ever touch the product.

Lets touch on another subject..which is why coatings fail.

We sell A LOT of coated headers. In a year, I have less than a handul of warranty claims. The 1700 degree coatings we do standard are an upgrade option normally, and overkill for most customers. Everytime, it can be attributed to two factors.
  • With stainless headers, improper tuning or dynoing the car right after install. The coating is baked on at 500 degrees. It is fully cured the first time you run the car (exhaust header temps can reach 900 degrees by the flange). All the coaters recommend, and put documentation in the box that says to install the headers, then take a easy drive on the highway or let the car idle for about 20 minutes with fans on it so the coating can properly cure.One mistake I see is people install coated headers and then roll the car right on the dyno and start tuning. The dyno is the hottest your car ever gets, which uncoated headers and manifolds glow when run on the dyno. Even once you get past curing, you should take care not to run the car extremely lean. Not being tuned right, and run lean increases exhaust gas heat and will burn or discolor the coating. Whenever you see headers where the coating is discolored right by the engine that is indictative of the car being run lean at some point. Our coatings do not discolor untill 1700 degrees, and a car has to be very lean to get even in that ballpark. This is always funny because the tuner and customer will always claim the tune was dead on..but the coating does not lie. It has to reach a certain point to fail.
  • With mild steel headers, rust can kill a coating fast. Get it coated on the outside only, and it will rust from the inside out because there is moisture in the exhaust. Also, often times mild steel headers are cheaper and have slipfit collectors. Because of that, the coating will get scratched or chipped when installing the slipfit collector on the mid pipe. Once there is a scratch in the coating, rust can start there, and pops the coating off like paint coming off a wall. In general, coating mild steel parts should be seen as something to extend the life of the product, not make it last forever.
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Old 03-03-2011, 10:09 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brantley847 View Post
Sir....Sir!

Just so you know, I like to complete my daily commute by licking the headers very slowly. This would not be possible without Jet hot....


...just fyi


that made me literally lol.
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