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Old 03-27-2018, 11:57 AM   #155
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Beautiful weekend! My son brought out his ATS-V, that is a fun car!
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Old 05-06-2018, 01:28 PM   #156
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MORE Maintenance........

WHEW! I guess things wear out at about 100K

When at Cresson, I noticed the car was not as smooth/predictable as I expected it to be. It has been ~ 6 months since my last track day and I accept that I may have been "out of touch" with the nuances of the handling.
NOPE. Front driver's side lower ball joint had some play/slop in it, so we checked out the rest of the suspension. rear upper driver's side ball joint also had some play in it, although less than the front.

Upgraded to the Z28 parts
23105014 Left Side Handling Link
23105015 Right Side Handling Link
23104902 Right Rear Upper Control Arm
23104903 Left Rear Upper Control Arm

The fronts were very easy to swap out, the rears...........less so.
I did some minor clean up while it was apart. The red cable runs directly between the battery and starter, tucked it up and secured it out of the way

I have new found respect for the folks that drop the rear cradle with the car on jack stands. The lift made it straight forward with much more room to work. Once the cradle is out, the arms are very easy to replace.
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Old 07-11-2018, 09:41 PM   #157
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Convertible Trunk Release

The convertible's rear seat does not lay down. If the trunk latch or wire fails, there is a key cylinder behind the top driver's edge of the back seat that pulls on a cable to release the trunk latch.
I've wanted to do this for quite some time because the rollbar keeps the seat from going all the way down. The harness & cross bars come out relatively easy, but the cable makes it much easier. Also, if the trunk is full, enough stuff has to come out through the back seat to crawl in and pull the escape handle on the trunk lid.

Great info here, THX to rray
https://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=341236

All that's left is to put some sheathing over the cable
I did not install the lock, just left the cable where I could get at it. It is stiff to pull, but you can open the trunk with the cable by hand

20995417: Cable < $20
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Old 07-12-2018, 09:36 AM   #158
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Love the progression over the years. Thanks for sharing.
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Old 07-12-2018, 09:28 PM   #159
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kburlar View Post
Love the progression over the years. Thanks for sharing.
Thx, it continues to be fun!
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Old 08-11-2018, 04:38 PM   #160
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hammdo View Post
Nice! I'm still debating on upgrading to the 6th Gen 1LE Radius Rods vs Caster Locks -- need to see.

I'll be testing the race deflectors next time out. Sounds like you had a blast!

-Don
Thx Don
Sorry, missed your post because of the page change......
We did have a blast!
I recommend increasing the caster. The method really is personal preference.
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Old 09-02-2018, 12:31 PM   #161
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Another Milestone

Hit this the other day coming back from the engine builder..............more on that later
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Old 09-02-2018, 12:41 PM   #162
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Parking Brake

Back in June the parking brake handle pulled up without any resistance, the cable had failed where it attached to the ball. This meant a new handle assy and a grommet (so no air/heat leak).
22747943: parking brake handle
92235052: grommet (front cable)
$80 in parts and a couple of hours which included pulling the exhaust. Not a difficult job.
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Old 02-10-2019, 11:38 AM   #163
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The car has over 100,000 miles on it, the LS3 has 80,000 since the last rebuild. There hasn't been a noticable decrease in power, but it's consuming ~ 1qt of oil per track day. It's an opportunity for a refresh! Basically, I would like to have more power to use in the straights.
So, I lucked out and found a wrecked '15 Z28 (#65) with less than 1000 miles on it and purchased the engine and transmission. Sold the trans to recoup some of the purchase price.

Tore the engine down, overall it was in great shape. It did have a bit of corrosion on a couple of the cylinder walls from sitting so long. Everything cleaned up with a hone of 0.005"
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Old 02-10-2019, 11:53 AM   #164
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The main reason for going to an LS7 was to take advantage of the excellent flowing heads. There isn't much power increase from the ci gain: 418 to 427 (or 430 as it turned out). The LS7 gains are predominately from the volumetric effeciency of the heads, add to that the gain from an intake swap and you get serious NA power. The Camaro is a heavy platform, so any power gains are welcome.
So how did it come out?
Not too shabby!
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Old 02-11-2019, 12:09 PM   #165
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LS7 into an SS

In order to make life easier, and not as costly, I elected to convert the LS7 from dry sump to wet sump. This meant that all of the SS/LS3 accessories and mounts could be retained, no need to get an oil tank/hoses and the radiator/fan assy did not need to be replaced. Basically it becomes a simple LS replacement.
The front snout on the crank is longer on a dry sump engine, but you can run a long snout crank on a wet sump engine and retain the wet sump accessories with a simple/inexpensive spacer from Skoggin Dickie (SDLS7SPCR). The only requirement is that you need to use a dry sump crank bolt. The LS3 front cover is used along with an LS3 oil pump.
The LS3 oil pan, pick-up and windage tray can all be put on the LS7, again, EASY! There is a "gotcha" though with the swap, the dipstick is in the oil tank of the dry sump LS7 and machined in the side of the block of the wet sump LS3. Luckly I'm not the first person to do this, TechAFX makes a drill guide for the wet sump dipstick. It bolts up to the block with two of the oil pan bolts. The boss is cast into all of the blocks, it is machined out for the wet sumps and left alone on the dry sump blocks.
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Old 02-11-2019, 01:14 PM   #166
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I removed the engine out the bottom, dropping the front sub-frame. This gave me the opportunity to take care of some maintenance/clean up items in the engine compartment. Cleaned up some of the wiring wrap, put in new firewall insulation and do a perminant repair to a short in the main power cable that runs between the jump post and the engine compartment fuse box. It was causing intermittent steering failures, only when in hard left turns at speed.........not the best time for the steering to go out!

Insulator part #s
92195864 Insulator, left, outer, upper
92230866 Insulator, right, outer, lower

Positive Cable, Front 6.2 liter 22925607
This was MUCH easier to replace with the engine out of the cradle
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Old 02-11-2019, 03:31 PM   #167
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While the engine and cradle were out, I went ahead and modified the rear cross member to be removable. I hope I don't need it, but if I do it will be much easier now

Thx to CFD:
http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=363173
look at post #10, I believe he still makes the flanges.
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Old 02-11-2019, 04:00 PM   #168
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The engine can be installed with all of the accessories, headers and harnesses. Basically complete, less time bent over the fenders.
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