Heal toe vs. Non-heal toe driving

[13coupe]

This might help for some.

http://www.hrpworld.com/store/defaul...rol-valve.html

[clarkkent]

Originally Posted by 13coupe

This might help for some.

http://www.hrpworld.com/store/defaul...rol-valve.html

502 bad gateway

What is at the site?

[hcsi99]

I take much pride in being able to heal toe correctly. It takes a lot of practice and in my case a wider accelerator pedal.
https://youtu.be/Zv1VRRShz2Q?t=1m15s

[clarkkent]

Originally Posted by hcsi99

I take much pride in being able to heal toe correctly. It takes a lot of practice and in my case a wider accelerator pedal.
https://youtu.be/Zv1VRRShz2Q?t=1m15s

Sounds great! I have a set of similar pedals on the way

[X25]

Originally Posted by hcsi99

I take much pride in being able to heal toe correctly. It takes a lot of practice and in my case a wider accelerator pedal.
https://youtu.be/Zv1VRRShz2Q?t=1m15s

Only two bolts holding the gas pedal? Since the bolts were just self-tapping, didn't have a corresponding nut for the gas pedal, and the extension part did not have any support under it, I used a lot more; 12 to be exact

[clarkkent]

Haha, yeah quite a bit more!

I ordered the SRP set, which is what you have I believe

[X25]

Originally Posted by clarkkent

Haha, yeah quite a bit more!

I ordered the SRP set, which is what you have I believe

Yep, that's what I have, too. It came with very limited number of bolts. Thankfully, I could find identical bolts/nuts at my local hardware store, so I could go nuts.

[hcsi99]

6,000 miles and 12 track days and it's still tight, saving weight not using 10 extra screws I guess

[clarkkent]

Originally Posted by hcsi99

6,000 miles and 12 track days and it's still tight, saving weight no using 10 extra screws I guess

true!

[Norm Peterson]

The time you gain by H-T vs a simple rev-match or double-clutch is the difference in the time that you are essentially coasting while you get the downshift done and the time it would take you to cover the same distance at your entry speed into your braking zone. I'd guess maybe two or three tenths per downshift?

Originally Posted by X25

In most cars, you can't do proper heel-and-toe unless you're hard-braking due to height difference between pedals when brake is not engaged hard enough. I honestly don't do it right at the street: I rev match for sure, but usually do it via just blipping or double-clutching.

This ↑↑↑

With brake pads that have really good bite, the learning process for H-T risks putting you into a braking event a whole lot harder than was perhaps intended.

Originally Posted by Pushrod Pete

Do you guys ease off the clutch or just dump it?

When the revs are adequately matched, your clutch foot work need be no different than for a brisk upshift - neither eased nor side-stepped harsh. In fact, if you kick the revs up a bit above the perfect rpm match for the road speed and the lower gear it'll be exactly like a brisk but otherwise normal upshift.


Norm

[clarkkent]

Why is anyone double clutching?

[Norm Peterson]

Why not? Just because you don't absolutely have to doesn't mean that maybe you shouldn't.

On the street it can be smoother (you're bringing the clutch disc and input-side transmission internals up to the appropriate rpm by engine power instead of by synchro friction). On the track you might not actually fully depress the clutch or fully release it while the shifter is in the neutral gate. But that's getting close to the edge of a whole 'nother shifting technique.


Norm

[clarkkent]

Originally Posted by Norm Peterson

Why not? Just because you don't absolutely have to doesn't mean that maybe you shouldn't.

On the street it can be smoother (you're bringing the clutch disc and input-side transmission internals up to the appropriate rpm by engine power instead of by synchro friction). On the track you might not actually fully depress the clutch or fully release it while the shifter is in the neutral gate. But that's getting close to the edge of a whole 'nother shifting technique.


Norm

I mean I suppose you can, but on the track where every second or fraction of a second counts, it's a waste of time (unless you're really worried about synchro wear, I actually know someone like that)

[Norm Peterson]

At HPDE, times are not critical like they are in W2W. No matter what they are, improvements in your driving will still show up. If it's a dual-purpose street/HPDE car, being kind to the mechanical bits should be on your mind.

If you are racing W2W or even time trialing, the presumption is that you understand that even more things have become consumables, and are prepared to accept occasional replacement of things that a street driver would not consider "normal wear and tear". Should be part of the budget.


Norm