6th gen camaro control arm deflectors installed

[Nick S]

Originally Posted by olblue75

So a 2014-2015 SS wheel liners fit the 2010-2013 SS with only minor trimmings? An if I understand what I'm reading the 2014-2015 SS liners have the ski ramps for the brake cooling??

I am not sure if the regular 2014-2015 SS fender liners have the brake duct opening and ski ramp or if just the 1LE's came with those fender linders. I ordered mine from Maureen at Rodgers Chevrolet (now Bates Chevrolet). I. Relieve I listed the part numbers for the fender liners in my thread I wrote up for retro fitting the Z/28 brake ducts onto a 2010-2013 car.

But to answer your question about installing them, yes they will fit with some minor trimming and ingenuity which I also detail in my Z/28 brake duct thread.

Link to my Z/28 Brake Duct thread: http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...28+brake+ducts

[Mgizzle]

Oh I am sorry track is the one I installed, the larger deflector on control arm. Main purpose is to direct your ski ramp and brake duct air into rotor hat.

1LE is never going for sale.... its as fast or faster than the z06... at gingerman two weekends ago it had no problems with z06s on the stock GYs but you are right.... z06 is a dream come true.... what an experience wow. My friend let me drive his c7 z06 at gingerman too.... what a ride. Also drove a 6th gen 1LE SS. Just amazing cars all of them.

Now I just need an ATS-V and omg.....

[SS Performance]

Ordered a set from ThatGMPartsGuy.com. Not the lowest price but the lowest shipping by far!

[Btrbimmer]

I've decided to go a different direction and install the full Quantum kit with 3" silicone hose for front brake cooling. My car is generating a bit more heat because I'm running Pirelli slicks.

I have the removed the Z28 duct kit, which was only on the car about a month.

If anyone is interested, I want to sell the 'like new' Z28 duct kit (I paid about $245) and I also have the 6th Gen track deflector kit to sell.

PM me and make an offer for these kits.

[olblue75]

Just got a good deal on eBay for set will be getting this done soon!!!

[Mach83]

Finished mine a few weeks ago. The bolt holes in gen6 track rotor shield need a little adjustment with the grinder. You just have to make one of the holes a little larger as the gen6 spacing is a smidge tighter bolt center to bolt center. I used a dremel with a grinding stone.

I played with the lateral spacing of the shield on the LCA. It was a balance between the deflector rubbing the frame on inboard side with suspension loaded vs getting interference with ABS sensor wire and strut on wheel side with steering deflection. From there I still had to trim around tierod to prevent rubbing at steering deflections with full droop and squat. Another trouble spot is the inboard corner as it will rub the frame under cornering load. I tested this with the white tape and several test runs.

The ABS sensor routing works perfect if oriented horizontal on factory mount. I used tie wraps to retain it laterally. Too much towards wheel and at full deflection the slack in wire gets too close to the rotor.

The vertical spacing makes a difference on the LCA and I also trimmed the guides much shorter. Otherwise when you snug the zip ties it will curve the deflector, causing other issues. I used creative zip-tying to keep the deflector centered exactly where it needs to stay.

YMMV and I'd say if you are OCD like me you'll experiment and find your own way. When I'm on track I do not like to be distracted by the pop of a binding deflector under cornering loads. I also don't want tie wraps popping and then having stuff hanging and having to raise car during the event to mess with it.





I cut the under car air deflector similar to Z28 and ZL1 to allow the liner ramps to function.







Here's how I keep the deflector centered.





Here you can see the witness mark on tape and how I was slowly 'adjusting. You can also see the final and best config for ABS wire. The electrical tape is just covering trial holes as I found the optimum way to mount these things.



I ran one event at Palmer. No issues, but I'm conservative and running at a Track Night in America event there's plenty of cool down laps stuck in traffic to not be an issue. I try to keep the car mechanically one step ahead of any act of aggression I may throw at it......

I tape up the duct terminations except when at the track and I left shields on. I put the center section of lower air deflector back on between events because it's so easy to do.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[olblue75]

Has anyone thought and drilling and taping the arm for screws instead of zip ties.

[h018871]

Originally Posted by olblue75

Has anyone thought and drilling and taping the arm for screws instead of zip ties.

Yes, but no.......
Thinking more about using the 16-18 arms instead. Not sure if they are the same. The 18 1LE arms could be a good choice.

[Norm Peterson]

Originally Posted by olblue75

Has anyone thought and drilling and taping the arm for screws instead of zip ties.

Creating stress concentration points in a suspension link doesn't sound like a very good idea.

But perhaps a hose clamp could be tightened more than zipties and be less likely to move.


Norm

[olblue75]

Cushioned Adel clamps with stainless hardware would be a good alternative.

[hammdo]

I did mine a bit differently. I used abs and created a 'pad' to bolt them on -- set them up for 'track' first, then, I'm able to use the 'daily' duct.

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showpo...postcount=1584

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showpo...postcount=1585

-Don

[Synner]

Originally Posted by olblue75

Has anyone thought and drilling and taping the arm for screws instead of zip ties.

Just weld 3 nuts on there then 3 screws and loctite. Do not drill into so thin and important a structural component.

[Btrbimmer]

Is it feasible to make a strong weld on the cast arm?

I found using aluminum stock to reinforce and adjust the plastic components worked well, then us stainless hose clamps to attach to the arms, which is much stronger than nylon ties and allows some subtle adjustment and positioning.

Although, in the end, I pulled all the deflectors off and installed full ducting.

I'm still interested to hear if there is a measurable improvement with the deflectors. I was contemplating ways to add cooling deflectors to the rear brakes.

Originally Posted by Synner

Just weld 3 nuts on there then 3 screws and loctite. Do not drill into so thin and important a structural component.

[Norm Peterson]

Originally Posted by Btrbimmer

Is it feasible to make a strong weld on the cast arm?

I wouldn't chance it, particularly given that you'll be driving the car hard and fast.


Norm