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Old 06-22-2015, 11:39 AM   #1
HAMBO

 
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Still getting some swirls

After reading all the good advice on the forums, and noticing quite a bit of spider-webbing all over my car (from previous owner and likely from using local car washes quite a bit) I decided I'd wash my car myself.

I started off by getting a full detail from a local detailer to get back to a relatively clean slate, and since then have only washed the car myself. Here in LA there isn't much grime on the road, and my car is in a garage about 23 hours a day, so I have mostly been doing waterless and rinseless washes (that and using a hose to wash your car is illegal here...)

Has been a few months and glad to report no really visible spider-webs or swirls from a foot away or so, but when I look down close at the paint (getting eye-level with the hood for example) in the right light I see a few very faint lines, and a handful of tiny tiny scratches here and there. Wondering if there's something I'm doing wrong? Here's my routine:

Waterless washes: Ultima WW, using Adam's waterless wash towels (one to wipe off the spray, one to buff, like in the Adam's video)

Rinseless washes: ONR diluted at 2 ounces per 1.5 gallons of water, using the Garry Dean method with 8-9 Eagle Edgeless towels from the Rag Company, blotting dry with a waffle weave MF towel

In both cases I try to glide the wash towels in straight lines left to right / right to left, rather that in circles.

Anything about my setup that you'd change? Maybe just need to build better technique over time? Or is it just impossible / really tough to not create any light swirls over time? It is a daily driver after all.

Thanks for any tips!
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SLP TVS2300, Edge CAI, 3" Magnaflow catback, BC Racing BR series coilovers, HRE FF15's (20x10 square) with Michelin Pilot Sport 4S's, GM STB, BMR front and rear sway bars and toe links, Prothane subframe bushings and front control arm inserts, JDP rear upper control arm bushings, Elite Engineering catch can. Tuned by Cunningham Motorsports.
1967 Bolero Red 396 SS/RS Convertible

Last edited by HAMBO; 06-22-2015 at 01:45 PM.
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Old 06-22-2015, 01:51 PM   #2
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It's just about impossible to not create swirls over time. No matter what you do, swirls will show up eventually. Especially on a daily driver. Only thing you can do is prevent swirling by having good technique and a product that works. Everything we do is to minimize swirls/scratches and protect.
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Old 06-22-2015, 01:59 PM   #3
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Are you sure they got out all the scratches when he had it detailed? Did look closely at an angle to make after you got it back. Just wondering if what you are seeing is new or not. Also make sure you are using enough of the rinse less wash to lubricate the surface.
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Old 06-22-2015, 02:18 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by seven View Post
Are you sure they got out all the scratches when he had it detailed? Did look closely at an angle to make after you got it back. Just wondering if what you are seeing is new or not. Also make sure you are using enough of the rinse less wash to lubricate the surface.
I would agree with this, make sure it is new damage. Keep an eye on it after another month or two of washes and see if it gets worse or not.

I personally like rinseless a lot more than waterless, I just like to have the extra lubrication it provides, gives greater peace of mind.

As a daily driver I think it will be near impossible to keep it flawless. Pick up a DA polisher and learn how to use it, that is what I am in process of doing right now. If you are someone who wants to keep your paint as clean as humanly possible, it will be a good investment! From what I understand (haven't experienced for myself yet) is if you get the paint flawless once and keep a correct washing/waxing/sealant regimine, you should really only need to do some minor corrections 1-2x a year with a mild compound.
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Old 06-22-2015, 05:19 PM   #5
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I DD my car 104K miles on the odometer.
only way to keep the swirls out is to wax the car with "swirl remover" using an orbital polisher. (http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G1761.../dp/B001O7I7H6 )
I do this every 3 months or so.
after that I apply wax and sealer. sometimes just sealer becuase I'm lazy lol
and maintain it thru the 3 months with spray on wax.
also I only use micro-fiber cloth to dry the car. If I had a compressor I'd probably use that. basically any friction from washing or drying the car will cause the "webs".
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Old 06-22-2015, 05:39 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HAMBO View Post
After reading all the good advice on the forums, and noticing quite a bit of spider-webbing all over my car (from previous owner and likely from using local car washes quite a bit) I decided I'd wash my car myself.

I started off by getting a full detail from a local detailer to get back to a relatively clean slate, and since then have only washed the car myself. Here in LA there isn't much grime on the road, and my car is in a garage about 23 hours a day, so I have mostly been doing waterless and rinseless washes (that and using a hose to wash your car is illegal here...)

Has been a few months and glad to report no really visible spider-webs or swirls from a foot away or so, but when I look down close at the paint (getting eye-level with the hood for example) in the right light I see a few very faint lines, and a handful of tiny tiny scratches here and there. Wondering if there's something I'm doing wrong? Here's my routine:

Waterless washes: Ultima WW, using Adam's waterless wash towels (one to wipe off the spray, one to buff, like in the Adam's video)

Rinseless washes: ONR diluted at 2 ounces per 1.5 gallons of water, using the Garry Dean method with 8-9 Eagle Edgeless towels from the Rag Company, blotting dry with a waffle weave MF towel

In both cases I try to glide the wash towels in straight lines left to right / right to left, rather that in circles.

Anything about my setup that you'd change? Maybe just need to build better technique over time? Or is it just impossible / really tough to not create any light swirls over time? It is a daily driver after all.

Thanks for any tips!

Although I am not a fan of Rinseless/waterless washing I see your need to do this in CA. I would presoak with ONR diluted to quick detailer concentrate prior to using the Gary Dean method. Use a spray bottle with a fine misting of the product to add lubrication and enhance dirt encapsulation.

Like others have said mind the current defects that you see and make sure your technique isn't doing any additional dammage.

Also no matter what method you use, No matter how soft the towels, some dammage however slight it may be, is being done.

Good luck with the Ca drought madness

ct
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Old 06-22-2015, 10:36 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CamaroDreams76 View Post
It's just about impossible to not create swirls over time. No matter what you do, swirls will show up eventually. Especially on a daily driver. Only thing you can do is prevent swirling by having good technique and a product that works. Everything we do is to minimize swirls/scratches and protect.
+1
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Old 06-23-2015, 09:47 AM   #8
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Another tip, is to make sure you are washing your towels properly with the correct detergent. Dirt can get trapped in your towel and can increase the number or intensity of scratches you get.
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Old 06-23-2015, 05:07 PM   #9
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Thanks for all the great advice everyone. Some great tips here to incorporate on lubrication and learning to use a polisher (have one that I've used once or twice so far on select panels, not the whole car yet). I have been washing my towels with Chemical Guys MF detergent that I bought on sale. Any other recommendations?

To a few peoples' point; I don't think the detailer got ALL the tiny scratches out, but I do seem to notice some faint ones in places I didn't see right after the detail, so perhaps a few showing up here and there. Sounds like that's going to be nearly impossible to avoid on a daily driver.

Thanks again for the advice!
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SLP TVS2300, Edge CAI, 3" Magnaflow catback, BC Racing BR series coilovers, HRE FF15's (20x10 square) with Michelin Pilot Sport 4S's, GM STB, BMR front and rear sway bars and toe links, Prothane subframe bushings and front control arm inserts, JDP rear upper control arm bushings, Elite Engineering catch can. Tuned by Cunningham Motorsports.
1967 Bolero Red 396 SS/RS Convertible
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Old 06-24-2015, 11:15 AM   #10
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Maintaining perfection is a slow decent into madness... unless its a full time show car, trailer queen, or kept in a museum its just not realistic.

Expect that some small amount of swirls are going to present themselves over time. Do your occasionally light touch up polishing to address problem areas and realize that 90% is still a million times better than the average car on the road.

Last edited by Adam's Polishes; 06-24-2015 at 11:35 AM.
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Old 06-24-2015, 12:10 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adam's Polishes View Post
Maintaining perfection is a slow decent into madness... unless its a full time show car, trailer queen, or kept in a museum its just not realistic.

Expect that some small amount of swirls are going to present themselves over time. Do your occasionally light touch up polishing to address problem areas and realize that 90% is still a million times better than the average car on the road.
Sounds like great advice, thanks! Just got my new Adam's MF cutting and foam finishing pads for my PC. Plan to use those on occasion to do some touch up work.
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2013 AGM 2SS/RS
SLP TVS2300, Edge CAI, 3" Magnaflow catback, BC Racing BR series coilovers, HRE FF15's (20x10 square) with Michelin Pilot Sport 4S's, GM STB, BMR front and rear sway bars and toe links, Prothane subframe bushings and front control arm inserts, JDP rear upper control arm bushings, Elite Engineering catch can. Tuned by Cunningham Motorsports.
1967 Bolero Red 396 SS/RS Convertible
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