Who has the best price on solid sub-frame bushings - Page 3 - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

olblue75 · 10-05-2019, 09:55 AM

Freeze the solid bushings and put some heat the subframe bushing bore and they will slide right in.

smokum · 10-06-2019, 08:12 PM

Maybe i need to start making these again. I still have all the programs and prints to build these again. Maybe we could do a group package and I'll build another run of them.

tlamb2 · 10-07-2019, 01:52 AM

The issue was not a tight fit the problem was there is an alignment pin coming down from the body where it makes contact to the top of the rear bushing and it is like 2 inches long so without dropping the whole cradle you only have like an inch to squeeze in the bushing. There is a DYI that is pretty recent about the install but it does not mention this problem at all, but I did find another post which the OP explains it better https://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=439190 This issue turned a 4 hr job into a 6 hr job and the DIY I was using did not mention this just trying to save someone the headache I dealt with.

d454brisson · 10-10-2019, 07:13 PM

I just did mine with the aFe/ PFADT one from Summit racing for 533$. Yes there is a pin but I just used some flat stock to get the rears started, then slid in a socket. It took 2.5 hours from start to finish moving slow and only taking out cradle bolts.

I used Mapp and oxygen torch to heat up quicker and they dropped right out.
The Pfadt/ aFe ones will slid in under the pin and a quick heavy press with the jack (plus a little heat and grease and they slid right in.)

R3VoLuTioN · 10-19-2019, 11:13 AM

The HE version are back in stock. Got mine last week.

10-05-2019, 09:55 AM	#29
olblue75 Drives: 2010 2SS/RS Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Clarksville Tennesse. Posts: 6,064	Freeze the solid bushings and put some heat the subframe bushing bore and they will slide right in. __________________ Orange Krush II 1LE Front sway bar, Splitter, shocks and struts, Z28 dual mode mufflers, Intake, UCA Bushings, and Toresen 3.91 Diff. 1 piece DSS Drive Shaft, ZL1/C7 Calipers, and 32mm JPSS Rear Bar. ASC race spec splitter and wicker. 6th Gen M017 Wheels. Stainless Works 1 7/8 LTs. DSE and PAFDT Suspension components.

10-06-2019, 08:12 PM	#30
smokum Drives: 2010 2ssrs Join Date: May 2013 Location: DFW Posts: 827 View My Garage	Maybe i need to start making these again. I still have all the programs and prints to build these again. Maybe we could do a group package and I'll build another run of them.

10-07-2019, 01:52 AM	#31
tlamb2 WHPLSH Drives: 2010 SS Maggie,ARH,Meth,AFE Coilove Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: San Clemente ,Ca Posts: 128	The issue was not a tight fit the problem was there is an alignment pin coming down from the body where it makes contact to the top of the rear bushing and it is like 2 inches long so without dropping the whole cradle you only have like an inch to squeeze in the bushing. There is a DYI that is pretty recent about the install but it does not mention this problem at all, but I did find another post which the OP explains it better https://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=439190 This issue turned a 4 hr job into a 6 hr job and the DIY I was using did not mention this just trying to save someone the headache I dealt with.

10-10-2019, 07:13 PM	#32
d454brisson Drives: 2014 ZL1 Join Date: Jul 2016 Location: Baltimore MD Posts: 345	I just did mine with the aFe/ PFADT one from Summit racing for 533$. Yes there is a pin but I just used some flat stock to get the rears started, then slid in a socket. It took 2.5 hours from start to finish moving slow and only taking out cradle bolts. I used Mapp and oxygen torch to heat up quicker and they dropped right out. The Pfadt/ aFe ones will slid in under the pin and a quick heavy press with the jack (plus a little heat and grease and they slid right in.)

10-19-2019, 11:13 AM	#33
R3VoLuTioN Drives: 2011 1SS RS Synergy Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Michigan Posts: 458	The HE version are back in stock. Got mine last week.