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Old 03-02-2012, 10:17 PM   #1
Camaro45thAE
 
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CEL - Reduced Engine Power?

While going out to the Sunshine Rally today, I had just come off the highway and was sitting idle in 1st gear waiting to turn when suddenly the car stumbled and I get CEL with Reduced Engine Power warning on the DIC. All the traction lights came on too.

I had to go through the intersection, and the car did cough and stumble when I started to roll out...and then came back enough for me to get it safely into a parking lot.

Turned it off, popped the hood and checked underneath for any fluids dumping...everything seemed normal. Turned it back on and still had the CEL light on, but the reduced engine power notice was gone. Car seemed to drive normal again. Got to the hotel and hung out for a bit. Still had the CEL and no warning on the drive home and car acted normal (good 45 mile drive). No weird sounds the entire time.

Im going to the dealer first thing in the morning, but anyone else seen this type of issue...especially on a 2012 yet?

2012 2LT M6 with 4600 miles on it.
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Old 03-03-2012, 12:35 AM   #2
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easy way would be to stop at an auto parts store, most of them have code readers you can borrow for free and you can google the code pretty quickly. I had some problems with another vehicle, so i ended up purchasing a code reader, makes checking and clearing CELs quick and not dependent on auto parts store hours... hope this helps.
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Old 03-03-2012, 03:44 AM   #3
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sounds like it went into limp mode for some reason. could have been from a misfire. limp mode is when the car goes into a reduced power mode so that you don't further ruin the engine. as stated above, you can go to an autozone and borrow theirs, and/or buy your own for about $50 so you have it with you at all times, and can check it.

But yeah, new car and i'm assuming no mods, it's best to just take it to the dealer.
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Old 03-03-2012, 08:05 AM   #4
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Just got word: fuel rail sender causing the prob. Part is being ordered and will be replaced (not today).
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Old 03-03-2012, 06:11 PM   #5
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I had that happen to me , It seems if you shift into a wrong gear by mistake the computer takes over and reduces the eng. Pwr. I was on my way home when that happened to me, the car was running so bad and so slow, I didn' think I would make it to the Gm dealer, but after about 5 mins, the car started to run normal and the eng warning lights went out.
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Old 07-20-2012, 08:54 AM   #6
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This happened to me twice and I have an automatic. Happened when I stopped at a light two nights ago. Started back up after a few minutes. Then it happened this morning while pulling up to park. I'm going to take her into the dealer....I had tirekingdom change my oil last night and asked what code it pulls on the history. I can't remember if he said p206 or p406...but he said blip in computer. Don't know what that means but I hope its something simple. I'm worried it might cut off when I'm driving on the expressway!
******
I think the code was P1406 EGR Pintle Position Error
P1406 Exhaust Gas Recirculation System Pintle Position Error ..not 406.

I hope its gas!!! lol
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Old 01-04-2013, 08:34 PM   #7
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Reduced Engine Power warning on the DIC of 2010 SS Camaro

My SS has done this 3 times now. Went to the dealer the first time and they said they re calibrated the injection system. The second and 3rd time I pulled the front engine compartment "jumper" bolt and cable for a few minutes....re installed it and it fires right up as normal. The CEL stays on for a few more minutes but then goes away.
So today I go to the dealer and I told them I remove the front jumper bolt and they said I can cause more problems and maybe blow some other modules by doing that! I think they are full of shit! If you can jump a car from that bolt....you are definitely not going to hurt anything else. AM I WRONG in that assumption anyone?
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Old 01-04-2013, 09:56 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by ZX1truth View Post
My SS has done this 3 times now. Went to the dealer the first time and they said they re calibrated the injection system. The second and 3rd time I pulled the front engine compartment "jumper" bolt and cable for a few minutes....re installed it and it fires right up as normal. The CEL stays on for a few more minutes but then goes away.
So today I go to the dealer and I told them I remove the front jumper bolt and they said I can cause more problems and maybe blow some other modules by doing that! I think they are full of shit! If you can jump a car from that bolt....you are definitely not going to hurt anything else. AM I WRONG in that assumption anyone?
You are disconnecting and reconnecting a +12 volt cable. I would not recommend doing this. It can spike one of the computers unless you remove the neg cable first. Never remove/install a pos cable without first removing the neg cable.
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Old 01-05-2013, 03:11 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by Chevy Fanatic View Post
You are disconnecting and reconnecting a +12 volt cable. I would not recommend doing this. It can spike one of the computers unless you remove the neg cable first. Never remove/install a pos cable without first removing the neg cable.
If your battery goes dead....and you then jump it from this terminal from another car or a 50 amp car charger...how does that not fry the computers/modules but just taking the + cable on and off does?????? That doesn't make sense to me.
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Old 01-05-2013, 03:38 PM   #10
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If your battery goes dead....and you then jump it from this terminal from another car or a 50 amp car charger...how does that not fry the computers/modules but just taking the + cable on and off does?????? That doesn't make sense to me.
As stated NEVER remove a +12 volt cable without removing the neg cable first. This is true also when jumpstarting a vehicle. When connecting a battery ALWAYS connect the pos cable first, then the neg. Same for jumpstarting. Pos cable first, then neg cable. When disconnecting, it is reverse order, neg cable first, then pos. Also I did not indicate you would fry the computer as you stated. I said you COULD spike the computer.

It appears you do not have a clear understanding of what happens when you connect/disconnect cables in the wrong order so let me see if this clears up your confusion. If you hook up your battery by putting on the pos cable last you will get a spark/arc. Apply the pos cable first then the neg, no spark. Spark/arc is not good on the vehicle electrical system/ computers.

Last edited by Chevy Fanatic; 01-06-2013 at 12:49 PM.
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Old 01-05-2013, 03:46 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by Chevy Fanatic View Post
As stated NEVER remove a +12 volt cable without removing the neg cable first. This is true also when jumpstarting a vehicle. When connecting a battery ALWAYS connect the pos cable first, then the neg. Same for jumpstarting. Pos cable first, then neg cable. When disconnecting, it is reverse order, neg cable first, then pos. Also I did not indicate you would fry the computer as you stated. I sais you COULD spike the computer.

It appears you do not have a clear understanding of what happens when you connect/disconnect cables in the wrong order so let me see if this clears up your confusion. If you hook up your battery by putting on the pos cable last you will get a spark/arc. Apply the pos cable first then the neg, no spark. Spark/arc is not good on the vehicle electrical system/ computers.
Geeeez....relax pal! Just asking a question. Thanks for the input.
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Old 01-05-2013, 07:28 PM   #12
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Geeeez....relax pal! Just asking a question. Thanks for the input.
Relax? I think you misunderstand my post. I am simply trying to help you understand the issue.
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Old 10-02-2015, 09:53 PM   #13
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I'm going to revive this post. I have had the reduced engine power light go on. Took it to the dealer. I was told I had a lot of carbon built up from my cold air inductions intake. The dealer cleaned it all off, everything was fine.
I ordered a new air filter for it but right before I got the new one it has happened again. Do you think I'm the few miles (less than 100 miles) I drove with the dirty air filter this could have happened again?
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Old 10-02-2015, 10:43 PM   #14
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