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Old 08-18-2017, 09:23 AM   #29
christianchevell
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Limited slip additive essential for the clutches etc in the rears when a stock internal, now if it were a Eaton posi I would love a truetrac...LOL that takes regular oil for a diff, or someone can upgrade oils like to royal purple or lucas or such and go by their recommendations but usually the stock oil and additive are fine for most who do not mod their rear..

I know Jannetty racing used too and I sure still align hone the rear outers on the pumpkin and sell billet bearing caps for the rear diff but the deal is you have to have it removed from the car..so if you have a place that can align the rear honing it better when the pumpkins out for say a new internal rear with other gears and the whole thing out its something I would consider also. If the place I used had the ability to align the rear bearing area better...... heres a helpful article I still know has good advice........ The best or just about for a article that covers a lot......... http://www.hotrod.com/articles/hrdp-...parts-failure/ And like many on here run a catch can and a separate clutch reservoir through gen5diy...........
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Last edited by christianchevell; 08-18-2017 at 09:34 AM.
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Old 08-18-2017, 11:04 AM   #30
maddoggyusa

 
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don't forget that at 5,000 ft elevation, you'll be losing maybe 15%-20% power. I imagine it still applies to forced induction but maybe not as much??
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Old 09-12-2017, 11:22 AM   #31
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Originally Posted by maddoggyusa View Post
don't forget that at 5,000 ft elevation, you'll be losing maybe 15%-20% power. I imagine it still applies to forced induction but maybe not as much??
Its not quite as much for Forced induction. Last car i had dynoed was a 91 Eagle talon and it made 475awhp at elevation and 492awhp at sea level.
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Old 09-12-2017, 05:54 PM   #32
christianchevell
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Just from your list LSA underdrive pulley and a Head gasket LS9. Your own heads you could port or go to some GMPP ported cnc heads I believe Dickey Scoggins is the best deal I heard of for the power output and price as they freshen up a stock CNC job . And are slightly more than say $1400 for a pair of heads with the hollow stem valves and trash-able springs installed..LOL And add in BMR toes, a Elite catch can for boost with the valves, and a LPW cover with poly bushings to keep the rear alive...also things I would do. I use a monster clutch the feel is great the Lt1s that uses the stock slave something you may have to buy for the other clutch the McLeod. And Monster makes the billet throw out bearing support needed for the slaves that can fail being plastic on our clutches.....I also installed a remote bleeder for kicks from Tick as I have a separate Holden GTO clutch reservoir from gen5diy. And don't forget a couple rounds of my BR30 driven racing oil for break in ..LOL then on to LS30.., a LS2 dogbone, a high volume pump, then etc etc
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Old 09-12-2017, 06:14 PM   #33
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Might do that in the future lol but 750 is going to be to much for me right now not even gonna lie. Im coming from driving a 100hp Humvee to a built LSA conversion camaro haha. Maybe soon though Thanks for the info though didnt even think about a lower pulley or meth yet.
It's good to see you admit that. Most wouldn't.

Myself, I would not go over 600-650 unless I took some driving classes. I trust my driving skills, but things change with that much power. I can imagine my common sense would be one of them.
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Old 09-12-2017, 09:29 PM   #34
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Who are you using as a tuner in CO? I just moved to Denver from Houston, and have a noticeable drop in power (NA build) wanted to talk to a good tuner here and see if they can get me some of it back. I know I'll def be down just due to the altitude, but if there's anything left, I'd like to get it...I've tried my ass off to get in touch with both Clint @ AIR, and also RMCR, but neither of them seem able to pick up the phone or return a voicemail...
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