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Old 11-07-2011, 07:44 PM   #15
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It'sssss sooooo beautiful!
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Old 11-07-2011, 07:50 PM   #16
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Old 11-07-2011, 08:22 PM   #17
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Yhea, I think it's about time we have some excitement around here. Just wait until hp tuners and cams happen. Things are going to change Pretty fast and competition is going to get rough.
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Old 11-07-2011, 09:34 PM   #18
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Nice Work!!! Get your butt dyno in that car and tell us what you think!!!!!!
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Old 11-07-2011, 09:48 PM   #19
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I plan to do the install sometime tomorrow. I was even planning on painting the manifold red to match my car's color scheme but I think I am going to put that off for another time.

Trying to think if I should get a tune update from vince before the dyno or after.

Anyway, so anyone know the factory torque spec for the manifold bolts and the top cover bolts?
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Old 11-07-2011, 11:06 PM   #20
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Tune update might be good. I wouldn't do it without tune, but you have more gauges than me so might not be critical. Can't wait for results
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Old 11-07-2011, 11:27 PM   #21
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maybe before to get optimum performance? And someone answered your question in your other thread
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Old 11-07-2011, 11:43 PM   #22
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I plan to do the install sometime tomorrow. I was even planning on painting the manifold red to match my car's color scheme but I think I am going to put that off for another time.

Trying to think if I should get a tune update from vince before the dyno or after.

Anyway, so anyone know the factory torque spec for the manifold bolts and the top cover bolts?
Tight?

I'd get an updated tune before the dyno session. Getting your car tuned while on a dyno is different than tuning it on the road/track. Unless of course you want a dyno Queen.
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Old 11-08-2011, 08:05 AM   #23
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Thanks tj. I got it. For anyone that change out their manifold in the future the bolt torque specs are 89in for the cover and 18lb for the actual manifold bolts. The bolt pattern sequence can be the usual criss cross and in and out.

I think I am going to wait and see if my AFR or the fuel trims change before asking vince to whip one up for me. I plan to hit the dyno more then once so let see how much extra a tune will get me. In other vehicles such as LS a tune is only good for about 5-6rwhp in my type of scenario.

Install pics and first impression to come this evening
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Old 11-08-2011, 08:30 AM   #24
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Old 11-08-2011, 09:22 AM   #25
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I am just curious where the Mace Intake insulators are non conductive . How much chasis Ground will be lost relying on just the bolt which will have a sealant arount the threads. will static electricity form and creat any problem and should a ground jumper be added from the intake to a good chasis ground.
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Old 11-08-2011, 09:33 AM   #26
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I am just curious where the Mace Intake insulators are non conductive . How much chasis Ground will be lost relying on just the bolt which will have a sealant arount the threads. will static electricity form and creat any problem and should a ground jumper be added from the intake to a good chasis ground.
Sorry but I am a little lost as to what you are trying to say. Can you elaborate a little more for my dumb A. Lol.
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Old 11-08-2011, 09:45 AM   #27
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Basically all your engine parts are bonded to chasis ground via neg of the batery most of the gaskets for heads, manifold, headers,TB, are metallic and help continuation of that good grounding potential. The intake insulator is non metallic and non conctive of electricity so being an electrician I always relly on a good ground. I was just wonderind if an aditional grond wire from the manifold to another bolt on the chasis such as a header bolt or even to a chsis bold would be usefull i am not sure how much or any static electricity occures through the system if any without a good groung. Just my curiosity
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Old 11-08-2011, 10:00 AM   #28
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Oh ok, I see where you are coming from with this. The original gasket is just plain rubber and not metal material like the header gaskets. Also, mace send you one of those rtv gasket maker but after talking to mace the original recommendation was to use the original gasket but it will require two, one on each side. In my case I have two so I plan to use the original gasket.

So in this case I don't think grounding would be an issue since it use rubber gasket anyway.
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