Broken Valve - Need Advice!! - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

AV95z · 02-26-2020, 12:06 PM

Hi everyone, it's been a very long time since I've been around these forums. I am here for some much needed advice.

For some background. 2010 2SS/RS 6spd, ~60k miles, full exhaust, LT headers, intake, tune. No engine mods otherwise.

It was 55 degrees here in MA on Sunday and I thought what better than to pull the car out of the garage for a drive in the nice weather. The car had been hiding from winter for about 2 months so I checked the oil, tires, and let her warm up in the driveway for about 15 minutes. No issues at all, so the girlfriend and I set off. About 30 minutes later on a back road cruising along at 35-40mph all of a sudden the car starts misfiring, check engine light comes on and the whole deal. Car won't idle and sounds terrible, but runs. I'm thinking bad gas at this point (even though it was treated for the winter). Luckily I'm less than a mile from my parents place at this point so I limp the car there.

I grab one of their cars and fill a jerry can with fresh fuel. No difference. Next day I come back with my code reader, get some misfire codes, car is obviously no better. So I call a flatbed and get it towed to a local shop.

Turns out the motor broke a valve when just cruising along. No compression and a borescope shows top of the piston is all banged up.

The shop its at told me it would be about $9k to swap in a rebuilt motor. So I'm here for advice.

I figure the car is worth somewhere around $20k, I've maintained the crap out of it, nobody believes me when I say the car is 10 yrs old. I'm not sure its worth spending $9k for a rebuilt LS3.

I am mechanically inclined and have performed all of the work done to my cars thus far. This seems like a different animal though and will require pulling the engine. (I don't have a lift).

I'm not against spending money on the car because I do love it. When my 1995 z28 blew a head gasket I used the opportunity to upgrade the valve train and stick a cam in it. Somehow that tweaked out LT1 is still going strong but my LS3 died

What do you guys think? Does anyone have a ballpark price on doing the heads, valvetrain, pistons, and I'm assuming the rotating assembly? If I go this route I would probably go with a bigger cam. I don't want to spend all this money and not end up with a stronger motor making more power.

Or do I cut my losses and put a down payment on a C8 corvette

Kidding...

Clarkstar · 02-26-2020, 12:32 PM

Rent a cherry picker, pull the motor and build what you want....

The Wanderer · 02-26-2020, 12:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Clarkstar

Rent a cherry picker, pull the motor and build what you want....

This....416, FI and all

Aqua Blue RS/SS · 02-26-2020, 01:04 PM

Harbor freight has cheap engine hoists that will do the job in a pinch if need be. I’ve used a few of them in the past and I’m still alive to tell the tale... you might check the classifieds on here motors come up for sale from time to time. Regardless I’d slap another motor in there and keep on getting after it.

ntncoronado1 · 02-26-2020, 01:08 PM

9k seems like a high estimate, try a different shop.

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

608RS · 02-26-2020, 02:32 PM

see if you can source an LS3 longblock, and then just transfer all of your existing parts back onto that.

InFiD3ViL · 02-26-2020, 02:35 PM

Blew my L99 last year, bought a used LS3 for $3800, had it fully rebuilt for $1700, brand new HF engine stand for $50, new HF engine lift for $150 and extra couple hundred $ for assorted tools, gaskets, and fluids. Did the install myself and saved a ton. But I also cost myself a ton by not simply having my L99 rebuilt. So do not rush into anything.

You can find a good used engine, should be some good deals coming up as people yank their stock engines to replace with forged builds.

But before you even think about going with an engine swap I would get that head off and check the piston and cylinder walls. Some people get very lucky and swap a head and call it a day. Either way you have plenty of options here. But in my opinion $9000 would not be one of them.

Moto-Mojo · 02-26-2020, 03:16 PM

You DIY guys who pull and rebuild motors have my utmost respect. For us, eh, lesser challenged folks, tell me, is a busted valve part of normal LS/L99 life or do you have to beat on these things for that to happen? (barring the one-offs)

Case in point, my 2001 Yukon has a much older ‘LS’ type motor with almost 160K miles. Zero issues. But I tend to drive the Camaro a lot harder. Kinda pointless in the GMC. : /

Aqua Blue RS/SS · 02-26-2020, 03:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Moto-Mojo

You DIY guys who pull and rebuild motors have my utmost respect. For us, eh, lesser challenged folks, tell me, is a busted valve part of normal LS/L99 life or do you have to beat on these things for that to happen? (barring the one-offs)

Case in point, my 2001 Yukon has a much older ‘LS’ type motor with almost 160K miles. Zero issues. But I tend to drive the Camaro a lot harder. Kinda pointless in the GMC. : /

I’d personally tend to put this one into the shit happens category, just Based on his mods and the conditions when it happened, Unless there is more to the story... I build a ton of waukesha, cat, weichai, and Cummins, and I’ve seen this kind of stuff happen before. Once in a while they just come apart with no rhyme or reason.
Dropped valves tend to get pretty pricey (if salvageable at all) to fix because normally the cylinders get trashed in the process of it all. I’ve seen more than a few blocks with sky lights due to dropped valves. As little tolerance as there are to bore on the 6.2 blocks I wouldn’t be surprised if the only way to fix op’s block was with sleeves. Sometimes you do get lucky though.

ariZona28 · 02-26-2020, 04:23 PM

I would definitely rebuild or replace as the situation warrants. Don't know how big your coin purse is but thumb through the Summit catalogue, plenty of fully assembled LS motors for 8K or so. The long block option previously mentioned may also be a good way to go. If you decide to cut your losses you probably won't get much for a '10 SS with a blown engine. Sounds like you've had the car for a while and like it. Take your time and research the type of build you'd like to accomplish. At least you still have your '95 to tool around in.

Greenhornet2 · 02-26-2020, 04:35 PM

If the block is good throw a forged rotating assembly in it. The head is likely trashed so a used set, or one new head. But if you have to pay someone to rebuild it, it will be cheaper to buy an engine and drop it in yourself. If you can rebuild yourself you are probably looking at $3500ish with forged stroker. Short block is around $5k. Long block a little more. Used engine probably $3-4k. Then it's labor, if you have to pay for labor.

xstuntman · 02-26-2020, 05:00 PM

If you've got the knowledge and something else to drive I'd say start to disassemble. You might get lucky and only the valve and piston is toast if the valve stayed in one piece.

Here's hoping.

Juiced1 · 02-26-2020, 05:07 PM

That's crazy pricing. We can build you a stroker LS3, install it and dyno tune it for thousands less.

Bigdumogre · 02-26-2020, 07:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Juiced1

That's crazy pricing. We can build you a stroker LS3, install it and dyno tune it for thousands less.

Can you open a New York location please

02-26-2020, 12:06 PM	#1
AV95z Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS/RS, 1995 Z28 Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: Massachusetts Posts: 52	Broken Valve - Need Advice!! Hi everyone, it's been a very long time since I've been around these forums. I am here for some much needed advice. For some background. 2010 2SS/RS 6spd, ~60k miles, full exhaust, LT headers, intake, tune. No engine mods otherwise. It was 55 degrees here in MA on Sunday and I thought what better than to pull the car out of the garage for a drive in the nice weather. The car had been hiding from winter for about 2 months so I checked the oil, tires, and let her warm up in the driveway for about 15 minutes. No issues at all, so the girlfriend and I set off. About 30 minutes later on a back road cruising along at 35-40mph all of a sudden the car starts misfiring, check engine light comes on and the whole deal. Car won't idle and sounds terrible, but runs. I'm thinking bad gas at this point (even though it was treated for the winter). Luckily I'm less than a mile from my parents place at this point so I limp the car there. I grab one of their cars and fill a jerry can with fresh fuel. No difference. Next day I come back with my code reader, get some misfire codes, car is obviously no better. So I call a flatbed and get it towed to a local shop. Turns out the motor broke a valve when just cruising along. No compression and a borescope shows top of the piston is all banged up. The shop its at told me it would be about $9k to swap in a rebuilt motor. So I'm here for advice. I figure the car is worth somewhere around $20k, I've maintained the crap out of it, nobody believes me when I say the car is 10 yrs old. I'm not sure its worth spending $9k for a rebuilt LS3. I am mechanically inclined and have performed all of the work done to my cars thus far. This seems like a different animal though and will require pulling the engine. (I don't have a lift). I'm not against spending money on the car because I do love it. When my 1995 z28 blew a head gasket I used the opportunity to upgrade the valve train and stick a cam in it. Somehow that tweaked out LT1 is still going strong but my LS3 died What do you guys think? Does anyone have a ballpark price on doing the heads, valvetrain, pistons, and I'm assuming the rotating assembly? If I go this route I would probably go with a bigger cam. I don't want to spend all this money and not end up with a stronger motor making more power. Or do I cut my losses and put a down payment on a C8 corvette Kidding...

02-26-2020, 12:32 PM	#2
Clarkstar Drives: 2013 1SS 1LE Join Date: Jun 2016 Location: Ixonia wi Posts: 1,456	Rent a cherry picker, pull the motor and build what you want.... __________________ 2013 1le- Katech 416 short block, TSP custom grind cam, LOD intake, cnc heads by F.ED., Nick William's 102mm T.B., CORN fed, Pedders coilovers. Performance street alingnment by Justin at Lake Country Alignment and dyno tune by Late Model Throttle. 603 h.p. 495 ft lbs tq.

02-26-2020, 01:04 PM	#4
Aqua Blue RS/SS Drives: ABM #93 Join Date: Oct 2018 Location: Lotaburger Posts: 2,689	Harbor freight has cheap engine hoists that will do the job in a pinch if need be. I’ve used a few of them in the past and I’m still alive to tell the tale... you might check the classifieds on here motors come up for sale from time to time. Regardless I’d slap another motor in there and keep on getting after it. __________________ ABM #2399 2SS/RS:SOLD ABM #93 2SS/RS Black Rally stripes, Titanium Interior 4,000 miles: GM GFX side skirts and diffuser waiting on paint, GM dovetail, GM heritage, RPI ZL1 style splitter. ‘87 IROC-Z Iroc blue. all original unmolested with 50K miles.

02-26-2020, 02:32 PM	#6
608RS Drives: 2015 2ss Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Carol Stream IL Posts: 638	see if you can source an LS3 longblock, and then just transfer all of your existing parts back onto that. __________________ 2015 Camaro 2ss, NicKey Performance built/tuned

02-26-2020, 02:35 PM	#7
InFiD3ViL Drives: 2010 CGM 2SS/RS LS3 Swapped A6 Join Date: Sep 2016 Location: Spring Hill, FL Posts: 4,570	Blew my L99 last year, bought a used LS3 for $3800, had it fully rebuilt for $1700, brand new HF engine stand for $50, new HF engine lift for $150 and extra couple hundred $ for assorted tools, gaskets, and fluids. Did the install myself and saved a ton. But I also cost myself a ton by not simply having my L99 rebuilt. So do not rush into anything. You can find a good used engine, should be some good deals coming up as people yank their stock engines to replace with forged builds. But before you even think about going with an engine swap I would get that head off and check the piston and cylinder walls. Some people get very lucky and swap a head and call it a day. Either way you have plenty of options here. But in my opinion $9000 would not be one of them. __________________ 2010 CGM Camaro 2SS LS3 Swapped A6 - GPI LS3 SS1 .647/.638, (224/237, 112 +4, 7º overlap) on CamMotion 8620 core, BTR Platinum .660" Dual Spring kit w/titanium retainers, CHE bronze trunnion upgrade, stock heads milled @ .015, Melling HV 10296 oil pump, TSP 1-7/8" long tube headers (W/Catless Off-road Pipes), Corsa Xtreme 3" Catback, GPI Ported/Rod Mod Intake, Stage 2 Ported Throttle Body, Vararam OTR CAI, Mike Norris Gen 2 catch can + GM 1LE clean side separator, 160º thermostat - Megan Racing adjustable coilovers (lowered 1.75"), MRR M017 10/11" wheels-Tuned by Ryan @ GPI

02-26-2020, 01:08 PM	#5
ntncoronado1 Drives: 2010 SS Join Date: Oct 2017 Location: US Posts: 6	9k seems like a high estimate, try a different shop. Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

02-26-2020, 03:16 PM	#8
Moto-Mojo Fast Cars and Old Guitars Drives: 2015 2SS RS (L99, baby!) Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: N. CA Posts: 3,966	You DIY guys who pull and rebuild motors have my utmost respect. For us, eh, lesser challenged folks, tell me, is a busted valve part of normal LS/L99 life or do you have to beat on these things for that to happen? (barring the one-offs) Case in point, my 2001 Yukon has a much older ‘LS’ type motor with almost 160K miles. Zero issues. But I tend to drive the Camaro a lot harder. Kinda pointless in the GMC. : / __________________ “I don’t want to belong to any club that would have me as a member.” - Groucho Marx

02-26-2020, 04:23 PM	#10
ariZona28 Give speed a chance Drives: 2015 Camaro 2LS, 2015 Camaro Z/28 Join Date: Nov 2019 Location: Mesa, Az Posts: 2,220	I would definitely rebuild or replace as the situation warrants. Don't know how big your coin purse is but thumb through the Summit catalogue, plenty of fully assembled LS motors for 8K or so. The long block option previously mentioned may also be a good way to go. If you decide to cut your losses you probably won't get much for a '10 SS with a blown engine. Sounds like you've had the car for a while and like it. Take your time and research the type of build you'd like to accomplish. At least you still have your '95 to tool around in. Attached Images

02-26-2020, 04:35 PM	#11
Greenhornet2 Drives: 2011 Camaro 2SS LS3 Whipple Join Date: May 2019 Location: Connecticut Posts: 1,925	If the block is good throw a forged rotating assembly in it. The head is likely trashed so a used set, or one new head. But if you have to pay someone to rebuild it, it will be cheaper to buy an engine and drop it in yourself. If you can rebuild yourself you are probably looking at $3500ish with forged stroker. Short block is around $5k. Long block a little more. Used engine probably $3-4k. Then it's labor, if you have to pay for labor. __________________ Whipple 2.9 CAI ID1050x injectors ZL1 Pump JRE FPCM JMS Voltage booster JRE Rough Idle blower cam BTR .660 springs CHE trunnion kit 1 7/8 Speed Engineering Borla Atak JRE scoop 1.5" lowering springs BMR trailing arms and toe links Cradle inserts 704WHP 603WTQ 93 octane

02-26-2020, 05:00 PM	#12
xstuntman Drives: 2012 Victory Red LFX Join Date: Dec 2012 Location: west central Texas Posts: 1,310	If you've got the knowledge and something else to drive I'd say start to disassemble. You might get lucky and only the valve and piston is toast if the valve stayed in one piece. Here's hoping. __________________ 2018 SS wheels, red Heritage grille, actual driving lights, ZL1 strut tower brace, GM Performance billet aluminum fuel door, front grille Bowtie delete, painted red rotors and calipers, 1/4 window American Flags, splash guards, AEM dry panel air filter.

02-26-2020, 05:07 PM	#13
Juiced1 Account Suspended Drives: 2012 2SS CAMARO 45th Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: St. Charles, IL Posts: 18,663	That's crazy pricing. We can build you a stroker LS3, install it and dyno tune it for thousands less.