P0449? What's the cause/fix?

[honor first]

Originally Posted by thahemp

Last time I was at Autozone with a code.. the guy said they aren't supposed to clear them. I thought that was kinda lame, but I suppose from a liability standpoint it makes sense.

true. brother managed an advance auto parts, and have been told by many stores they cant.
the reason is they do the code checks to try to sell you parts. not to provide a free service of clearing codes. buy a part to repair though, and they'll gladly reset after you install it.
lame that they wont clear it, but pretty much standard practice throughout the business.

[jbreed]

I have a just encoutered this code and can't believe at the number of posts related to a single part failing. The estimates to drop the tank and rear end are huge - and I can't think of a good reason for locating this part on the 2010 in this inaccessable place. I have only ever had the dealer wrench the car and never over filled the tank...On the down side, I just hit 90K so the warranty seems to be a non-starter. Has anyone thought of filing a NHTS complaint related to the high number of failures on this part across a huge range of milages? Seems like it should be investigated to see if there is a pattern.

[SkipHit]

I agree! Last week my 2010 through the same code P0449 for EVAP Solenoid, I cleared it with my AUTEL DS708 and it came back on. I was able to clear it after starting and stayed off my entire drive of an hour and a half. However it came back on the next morning at start up. It appears to be just not passing the initial start up check that the PCM does, since it can be cleared and run. I also can manually cycle the solenoid and increase my venting with my scanner. All tests with my scanner show all is working during run time. Still doing diagnostics the EVAP canister appears to be above the rear differential, although it shows in mitchell on demand to drop the tank, seperate the axles, and the rear chassis. Don't want to do this, but will if I have to.

[johncgg]

FWIW in Sycamore IL the new solenoid and installation is $650. Have it scheduled for next week. Hate to spend the money but love the car. I am at just under 100K miles.
JC

[SkipHit]

first post hope it helps?
On page 30 or so there is a detailed list of covered parts:
Page 30 Emission Warranty Parts List
Evaporative Emission Control
System (Gasoline Engines)
Canister
Canister Solenoid and Valve
Fuel Feed and Return Pipes and
Hoses
Fuel Filler Cap
Fuel Level Sensor
Fuel Limiter Vent Valve
Fuel Tank(s) *
Fuel Tank Filler Pipe (with restrictor)
Fuel Tank Vacuum or Pressure
Sensor
You notice that the Canister and the Canister Solenoid and Valve are listed that should be for 8 year / 80,000 miles. hope this helps

[SkipHit]

Shout out To George Xenos at Jim Browne Chevrolet in Dade City Fl., Evap Canister was still under warranty with 66,324 miles replaced today!

[Dacannon]

Ehh cost me $102.00 out of pocket for part #92226690 which is the entire assembly and 2 hours of my time what made it easier was that I was adding my sway bars and drop springs only had 32,000 miles on mine before the codes.

[IrocJack]

I've got 16,000 miles on my 2010 and have that code, stopped by Advance.

[IrocJack]

Went to dealership today, seems I have a broken wire somewhere from front to back. It's giving the CEL for po449.
They have to start at the valve and work there way back to find it.

[Skurpio]

It's 2017 and I have my 2010 RS...~49k miles...this code popped up.

At a dealership now and will be replaced on Monday for $860. Not covered under warranty. The 8yr/80k warranty still in effect on my vehicle only basically covers the cat.

I plan on contacting GM again to see if they'll do any type of reimbursement. Good luck on that mess.

on GMs part considering this is now in the engine block on the 2011 model.

[Linkage]

The canister vent valve is something you can do in your driveway. It cost me like $34 at Pep boys for the (made in china) part. Ironically the valve taken out was made in China too!

My application: '12 Camaro RS (V6) ~34k miles

Jack up (and support) the rear of the car. (You are an idiot if you trust just the jack. ) Don't jack up the axle as it will compress the rear up and you need the space. Let the axle hang. Not sure if you can do it with drive on ramps? I did remove the pass side tire, but everything was done from underneath.

The valve is on the back (bumper side) of a flimsy black plastic canister, but you cannot get it out unless you drop the canister. ( because there is a metal brace interfering with the removal)

The valve is black, about 3.25" long and .75" in diameter. It extends out of the canister about 2" with a two wire connector.

The canister is held on by two 10mm bolts on either side. (driver/passenger) So you need an extension to get up in there.

I used a 1/4 drive 10mm socket with 10" or so extension with a universal to get to the bolt on the passenger side as it is not a straight shot with the rear axle components and such in the way.

Take out one bolt and then loosen the other (slotted) side and the canister will drop enough to access the valve. Rotate the vent valve. ( no fasteners- just a twist lock) Use a long screwdriver to pry/pop it out of the canister.

Once out, the valve and wire drops low enough to remove the electrical connector (once you figure out the connector )

Hook up the connector to the new valve and install in reverse order.

It's in a tight spot so you will also need good lighting to see up in there. I used an LED pen light with a magnet.

Afterwards I took my Harbor Freight code reader and cleared the code and the CEL has been off ever since.

There are probably other ways to do this job, but this is how I did it.

Total time was about 45 minutes.

[fnhowe84]

Originally Posted by Linkage

The canister vent valve is something you can do in your driveway. It cost me like $34 at Pep boys for the (made in china) part. Ironically the valve taken out was made in China too!

My application: '12 Camaro RS (V6) ~34k miles

Jack up (and support) the rear of the car. (You are an idiot if you trust just the jack. ) Don't jack up the axle as it will compress the rear up and you need the space. Let the axle hang. Not sure if you can do it with drive on ramps? I did remove the pass side tire, but everything was done from underneath.

The valve is on the back (bumper side) of a flimsy black plastic canister, but you cannot get it out unless you drop the canister. ( because there is a metal brace interfering with the removal)

The valve is black, about 3.25" long and .75" in diameter. It extends out of the canister about 2" with a two wire connector.

The canister is held on by two 10mm bolts on either side. (driver/passenger) So you need an extension to get up in there.

I used a 1/4 drive 10mm socket with 10" or so extension with a universal to get to the bolt on the passenger side as it is not a straight shot with the rear axle components and such in the way.

Take out one bolt and then loosen the other (slotted) side and the canister will drop enough to access the valve. Rotate the vent valve. ( no fasteners- just a twist lock) Use a long screwdriver to pry/pop it out of the canister.

Once out, the valve and wire drops low enough to remove the electrical connector (once you figure out the connector )

Hook up the connector to the new valve and install in reverse order.

It's in a tight spot so you will also need good lighting to see up in there. I used an LED pen light with a magnet.

Afterwards I took my Harbor Freight code reader and cleared the code and the CEL has been off ever since.

There are probably other ways to do this job, but this is how I did it.

Total time was about 45 minutes.

Thanks for the instructions on this. I just keep clearing mine once every other day with my BT obd2. BUT will prolly just replace since it can be done outside a shop. Thanks again for the detailed instructions!