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Old 04-11-2018, 11:29 PM   #43
acammer
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Originally Posted by SSE 4 2SS View Post
I looked at the build information of your car in your signature.... I bet with those rear gears the car launches pretty well already... though we all want more...

I went the other direction and run 3.07 rear gears.... and in standing mile racing I hang on a lot of RPM's for quite a while... Especially in 4th and 5th gear.... Throwing 2,000 plus RWHP against the driveline for a half mile is tough on EVERYTHING... As far as launches.... Imagine a battleship in thick mud... Yeah, it launches harder than my car... My power band is 6,000 to 9,000 rpm, and with my gearing I'm doing about 60 mph at the 1/8th mile... and then I'm 145-150 at the 1/4 mile... between 180 and 190 at the half and 225.8 so far at the mile... Car has a lot more, but we have to get everything working together and toss in the driver MOD...
That's pretty incredible, over 200 in a mile is crazy stout. That's gotta be a lot of heat making that kind of power over that period of time.

Mine launches ok, once I get it on a tire and get the cam in it should be pretty potent for an all motor street car with all the creature comforts.
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Old 04-12-2018, 12:23 AM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acammer View Post
That's pretty incredible, over 200 in a mile is crazy stout. That's gotta be a lot of heat making that kind of power over that period of time.

Mine launches ok, once I get it on a tire and get the cam in it should be pretty potent for an all motor street car with all the creature comforts.
Actually, my car makes less heat now as far as coolant temps and under hood heat than it did with the other motor iteration making a lot less power. One, we have larger radiator.... two, the dry sump removes a ton of heat.... unfortunately that translates into cabin heat as the tank is where the rear seat passenger side used to be.... Three, with the block half filled, the coolant volume is smaller, and he radiator cools it better, especially with the ceramic topped pistons. They keep the heat up high in the cylinders... In race conditions, other than when I had an O2 sensor poop the bed and the left bank went stupid rich, I've never seen temperatures over 183 with this build, on the dyno, or at the race track.... I do not have A/C, and the interior of the car is quite uncomfortable at the end of a mile pass with the radiant heater in the back seat... Being in South Texas and having the car still be street legal, I'm extremely selective on days I take her on short jaunts to the car gatherings... We also only run C-16 fuel at ~~ $ 15.00 a gallon, and I make less than three mpg when driving calmly.... and burn 4 - 5 gallons on a mile pass at WOT...
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Old 04-12-2018, 12:23 AM   #45
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OP, I apologize for stealing your thread.... We drifted off topic... Please forgive me...
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If the car feels like it is on rails, you are probably driving too slow. -Ross Bentley

Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall.
Torque is how far you take the wall with you.

“If everything seems under control, you're just not going fast enough.” Mario Andretti

If you can turn, you ain't going fast enough...
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Old 04-24-2018, 09:10 AM   #46
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No problem. I enjoy learning new stuff about motors etc. my question was answered so I’m good.
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Old 05-09-2018, 04:47 AM   #47
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Originally Posted by Pro Stock John View Post
My shift point are around 7000. Granted I don't beat on the car all the time and I only have 38K on it.
In your tune, what is your shift mph and rpm set at in all gears in all patterns?

I had issues last night with up-shifts bouncing off the rev limiter.

I had it set to the exact rpm I wanted 6,600 (rev limiter set at 6,800) and exact mph @ 6,600 in gears 1-5, but it would still rev to the moon between up-shifts and bounce the rev limiter at 6,800.



https://youtu.be/PsLIjZMdEpo?t=4m15s

And after reading what you said...

Looks like the Texas Speed VVT 3.2 cam I have is good to 6,800, so do you think I should go ahead and rev that high in a stock bottom end and trans 2010 SS?

Mods in sig.

Video from last night on street tires, traction control on, leaving at idle:



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Old 05-09-2018, 08:27 AM   #48
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considering I have mine set at 7k and shift at 6800...you should be fine. are you running DR's?

peace..
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Old 05-09-2018, 08:32 AM   #49
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I wouldn't try it with a stock bottom end.
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Old 05-09-2018, 09:54 AM   #50
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I wouldn't try it with a stock bottom end.
so much bad info....
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Old 05-09-2018, 09:59 AM   #51
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Originally Posted by frankwjr View Post
so much bad info....
It's amazing how so many of us survive running these SBE's over 7k on a regular basis. LS3 RPM limits are in the valve train for most of us, the SBE will take 7000+ pretty reliably.
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Old 05-09-2018, 11:13 AM   #52
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Originally Posted by acammer View Post
It's amazing how so many of us survive running these SBE's over 7k on a regular basis. LS3 RPM limits are in the valve train for most of us, the SBE will take 7000+ pretty reliably.
LOL my car sees on a regular no lift shift 76-7900 lol It revs so quick the limiter just says "hey man you gonna slow it down man? I mean you just let it go 600 rpm over dude" Yeah my limiter is baked lmao
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Old 05-09-2018, 12:19 PM   #53
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Originally Posted by lazerlemonta View Post
LOL my car sees on a regular no lift shift 76-7900 lol It revs so quick the limiter just says "hey man you gonna slow it down man? I mean you just let it go 600 rpm over dude" Yeah my limiter is baked lmao
Yea, a lot of us see 7500 or more on shift and are holding together just fine. Some aftermarket ignition control (Ie. LNC2000) might keep it checked a little better.
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