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Old 03-07-2016, 02:47 PM   #141
Apex Motorsports
 
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Originally Posted by Shawno72 View Post
Ok honest opinion, I don't track my car but I sure have some fun in the mountains carving around about once a month. Are inserts enough or should I just go ahead and replace the whole bushing?
I never recommend inserts. They are just a band-aid and usually squeak.
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Old 03-07-2016, 03:08 PM   #142
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Originally Posted by Apex Motorsports View Post
I never recommend inserts. They are just a band-aid and usually squeak.
Ok. Makes sense, thank you
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Old 03-10-2016, 04:39 PM   #143
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Ok. Makes sense, thank you
No problem.
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Old 03-11-2016, 07:07 AM   #144
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APEX is spot on - although a pain to do, it should be worth it.

REAR CRADLE SUB FRAME BUSHINGS - these can be removed using the 1” Socket and Torch method. Put a hydraulic jack under the Diff. I also used (4) Jack Stands for safety. Remove one 24mm Sub-Frame bolt, screw it back in 1/2" and repeat on the remaining three. Remove two sub-frame bolts on either the driver or passenger side. Lower the jack under the differential just enough to place a 1" socket in between the top of the sub-frame bush ferule. Use the second floor jack to lift the corner of the sub-frame with the socket. Add pressure once you are sure the socket is secure between the top of the bushing ferule and the 'frame' rail. Start with the Left Front. When you start to lift the car off the jack stand or Hoist/QuickJack, heat the metal that surrounds the sub-frame bushing. Keep heating until the bushing falls on the floor. Repeat on the Left Rear, you have to heat the hell out of it as it is a larger bushing. Clean the inside of the Bushing Housings in the Frame with a drill and wire wheel. Pop off the Bottom Bushing Metal Caps with a Pry Bar or Socket and extension. Install your new Bushings, I made a tool, ref the pics. Note – it is very unlikely that you can use the Vehicle’s weight or Cradle Bolts to seat the Rear Bushings, it will strip them. Use the lube supplied with the Bushings! Screw in the Cradle Bolts at least ½”. Repeat on the other side. Carefully cinch the Cradle up ensuring the Rear Dowel’s are aligned and the Cradle is seated, and Torque the (4) 21mm Bolts to 130 Ft Lbs. These are TTY, you should buy new!


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Old 03-11-2016, 03:00 PM   #145
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The rest of the stuff -
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Old 03-11-2016, 04:24 PM   #146
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Coilovers?
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Old 03-11-2016, 04:49 PM   #147
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Old 03-11-2016, 05:03 PM   #148
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Nice^^^
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Old 03-14-2016, 08:59 AM   #149
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hesster View Post
APEX is spot on - although a pain to do, it should be worth it.

REAR CRADLE SUB FRAME BUSHINGS - these can be removed using the 1” Socket and Torch method. Put a hydraulic jack under the Diff. I also used (4) Jack Stands for safety. Remove one 24mm Sub-Frame bolt, screw it back in 1/2" and repeat on the remaining three. Remove two sub-frame bolts on either the driver or passenger side. Lower the jack under the differential just enough to place a 1" socket in between the top of the sub-frame bush ferule. Use the second floor jack to lift the corner of the sub-frame with the socket. Add pressure once you are sure the socket is secure between the top of the bushing ferule and the 'frame' rail. Start with the Left Front. When you start to lift the car off the jack stand or Hoist/QuickJack, heat the metal that surrounds the sub-frame bushing. Keep heating until the bushing falls on the floor. Repeat on the Left Rear, you have to heat the hell out of it as it is a larger bushing. Clean the inside of the Bushing Housings in the Frame with a drill and wire wheel. Pop off the Bottom Bushing Metal Caps with a Pry Bar or Socket and extension. Install your new Bushings, I made a tool, ref the pics. Note – it is very unlikely that you can use the Vehicle’s weight or Cradle Bolts to seat the Rear Bushings, it will strip them. Use the lube supplied with the Bushings! Screw in the Cradle Bolts at least ½”. Repeat on the other side. Carefully cinch the Cradle up ensuring the Rear Dowel’s are aligned and the Cradle is seated, and Torque the (4) 21mm Bolts to 130 Ft Lbs. These are TTY, you should buy new!


Great post! Thanks for sharing.
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Old 03-18-2016, 03:56 PM   #150
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Won't get into the debate on replacing TTY Bolts, but it is a small cost of my total Suspension Upgrades, and peace of mind. Sorted out where everything went, and added some pics of the difference in the Rear Toe Rod, LCA, and Trailing Arms. And if you wonder why you may have wheel hop, jut look at the difference of the Rear UCA Stock Bushing versus the BMR Delrin one!




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Old 03-18-2016, 06:06 PM   #151
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I am about ready to install my BMR adjustable toe links, trailing arms with outer bushings, diff bushings and cradle bushings. Made a tool for
to remove the outer trailing arm bushings.


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Old 03-18-2016, 09:39 PM   #152
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Pondering BMR bushings for my 1LE. Pros, cons? How is the day to day ride affected? Do poly bushings last?
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Old 03-19-2016, 01:36 PM   #153
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Pondering BMR bushings for my 1LE. Pros, cons? How is the day to day ride affected? Do poly bushings last?
Pros and cons depend on exactly which bushings you are talking about. When done right you can expect to improve stability, handling, traction, steering precision and feedback, etc with very little impact on ride quality. Poly bushings do last. If you want to discuss it in detail feel free to send me a PM.
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Old 03-19-2016, 03:12 PM   #154
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Thanks. Will do.
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