Curing 5th Gen Camaro Wheel Hop - Page 11 - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

Apex Motorsports · 03-07-2016, 02:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shawno72

Ok honest opinion, I don't track my car but I sure have some fun in the mountains carving around about once a month. Are inserts enough or should I just go ahead and replace the whole bushing?

I never recommend inserts. They are just a band-aid and usually squeak.

Shawno72 · 03-07-2016, 03:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Apex Motorsports

I never recommend inserts. They are just a band-aid and usually squeak.

Ok. Makes sense, thank you

Apex Motorsports · 03-10-2016, 04:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shawno72

Ok. Makes sense, thank you

No problem.

hesster · 03-11-2016, 07:07 AM

APEX is spot on - although a pain to do, it should be worth it.

REAR CRADLE SUB FRAME BUSHINGS - these can be removed using the 1” Socket and Torch method. Put a hydraulic jack under the Diff. I also used (4) Jack Stands for safety. Remove one 24mm Sub-Frame bolt, screw it back in 1/2" and repeat on the remaining three. Remove two sub-frame bolts on either the driver or passenger side. Lower the jack under the differential just enough to place a 1" socket in between the top of the sub-frame bush ferule. Use the second floor jack to lift the corner of the sub-frame with the socket. Add pressure once you are sure the socket is secure between the top of the bushing ferule and the 'frame' rail. Start with the Left Front. When you start to lift the car off the jack stand or Hoist/QuickJack, heat the metal that surrounds the sub-frame bushing. Keep heating until the bushing falls on the floor. Repeat on the Left Rear, you have to heat the hell out of it as it is a larger bushing. Clean the inside of the Bushing Housings in the Frame with a drill and wire wheel. Pop off the Bottom Bushing Metal Caps with a Pry Bar or Socket and extension. Install your new Bushings, I made a tool, ref the pics. Note – it is very unlikely that you can use the Vehicle’s weight or Cradle Bolts to seat the Rear Bushings, it will strip them. Use the lube supplied with the Bushings! Screw in the Cradle Bolts at least ½”. Repeat on the other side. Carefully cinch the Cradle up ensuring the Rear Dowel’s are aligned and the Cradle is seated, and Torque the (4) 21mm Bolts to 130 Ft Lbs. These are TTY, you should buy new!

hesster · 03-11-2016, 03:00 PM

The rest of the stuff -

Shawno72 · 03-11-2016, 04:24 PM

Coilovers?

hesster · 03-11-2016, 04:49 PM

Shawno72 · 03-11-2016, 05:03 PM

Nice^^^

Apex Motorsports · 03-14-2016, 08:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hesster

APEX is spot on - although a pain to do, it should be worth it.

REAR CRADLE SUB FRAME BUSHINGS - these can be removed using the 1” Socket and Torch method. Put a hydraulic jack under the Diff. I also used (4) Jack Stands for safety. Remove one 24mm Sub-Frame bolt, screw it back in 1/2" and repeat on the remaining three. Remove two sub-frame bolts on either the driver or passenger side. Lower the jack under the differential just enough to place a 1" socket in between the top of the sub-frame bush ferule. Use the second floor jack to lift the corner of the sub-frame with the socket. Add pressure once you are sure the socket is secure between the top of the bushing ferule and the 'frame' rail. Start with the Left Front. When you start to lift the car off the jack stand or Hoist/QuickJack, heat the metal that surrounds the sub-frame bushing. Keep heating until the bushing falls on the floor. Repeat on the Left Rear, you have to heat the hell out of it as it is a larger bushing. Clean the inside of the Bushing Housings in the Frame with a drill and wire wheel. Pop off the Bottom Bushing Metal Caps with a Pry Bar or Socket and extension. Install your new Bushings, I made a tool, ref the pics. Note – it is very unlikely that you can use the Vehicle’s weight or Cradle Bolts to seat the Rear Bushings, it will strip them. Use the lube supplied with the Bushings! Screw in the Cradle Bolts at least ½”. Repeat on the other side. Carefully cinch the Cradle up ensuring the Rear Dowel’s are aligned and the Cradle is seated, and Torque the (4) 21mm Bolts to 130 Ft Lbs. These are TTY, you should buy new!

Great post! Thanks for sharing.

hesster · 03-18-2016, 03:56 PM

Won't get into the debate on replacing TTY Bolts, but it is a small cost of my total Suspension Upgrades, and peace of mind. Sorted out where everything went, and added some pics of the difference in the Rear Toe Rod, LCA, and Trailing Arms. And if you wonder why you may have wheel hop, jut look at the difference of the Rear UCA Stock Bushing versus the BMR Delrin one!

Shawno72 · 03-18-2016, 06:06 PM

I am about ready to install my BMR adjustable toe links, trailing arms with outer bushings, diff bushings and cradle bushings. Made a tool for
to remove the outer trailing arm bushings.

kmdracer · 03-18-2016, 09:39 PM

Pondering BMR bushings for my 1LE. Pros, cons? How is the day to day ride affected? Do poly bushings last?

Apex Motorsports · 03-19-2016, 01:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kmdracer

Pondering BMR bushings for my 1LE. Pros, cons? How is the day to day ride affected? Do poly bushings last?

Pros and cons depend on exactly which bushings you are talking about. When done right you can expect to improve stability, handling, traction, steering precision and feedback, etc with very little impact on ride quality. Poly bushings do last. If you want to discuss it in detail feel free to send me a PM.

kmdracer · 03-19-2016, 03:12 PM

Thanks. Will do.

03-11-2016, 04:24 PM	#146
Shawno72 Drives: 2015 Black 2LT RS M6 Join Date: Aug 2015 Location: Cali Posts: 2,035	Coilovers? __________________ Overkill tune/E85/80mm•CAI cold air intake w/my custom maf tube•Apex air scoop•JacFab ported intake/Extendolater•Vitesse•EE EX2 catch can•Innovate wideband•ARH HFC's•NPP exhaust•11386 xpipe•Brembos/cross drilled/slotted rotors•SS M/C•Pfadt 1.25 springs•1LE struts/sways/strut tower brace•BMR diff bush, trail arms/bush, adj toe links•My custom Tunnel brace•Hurst short throw shifter•JDP stage 1 clutch res•1LE steering wheel, shift boot•ZL1 rear diffuser/splash guards•GM splitter•Z/28 grille/flowtie/spoiler/wheels•GM performance pedals•"Chevrolet" door sills•10" Kicker sub•BigWorm overlays

03-11-2016, 05:03 PM	#148
Shawno72 Drives: 2015 Black 2LT RS M6 Join Date: Aug 2015 Location: Cali Posts: 2,035	Nice^^^ __________________ Overkill tune/E85/80mm•CAI cold air intake w/my custom maf tube•Apex air scoop•JacFab ported intake/Extendolater•Vitesse•EE EX2 catch can•Innovate wideband•ARH HFC's•NPP exhaust•11386 xpipe•Brembos/cross drilled/slotted rotors•SS M/C•Pfadt 1.25 springs•1LE struts/sways/strut tower brace•BMR diff bush, trail arms/bush, adj toe links•My custom Tunnel brace•Hurst short throw shifter•JDP stage 1 clutch res•1LE steering wheel, shift boot•ZL1 rear diffuser/splash guards•GM splitter•Z/28 grille/flowtie/spoiler/wheels•GM performance pedals•"Chevrolet" door sills•10" Kicker sub•BigWorm overlays

03-18-2016, 06:06 PM	#151
Shawno72 Drives: 2015 Black 2LT RS M6 Join Date: Aug 2015 Location: Cali Posts: 2,035	I am about ready to install my BMR adjustable toe links, trailing arms with outer bushings, diff bushings and cradle bushings. Made a tool for to remove the outer trailing arm bushings. __________________ Overkill tune/E85/80mm•CAI cold air intake w/my custom maf tube•Apex air scoop•JacFab ported intake/Extendolater•Vitesse•EE EX2 catch can•Innovate wideband•ARH HFC's•NPP exhaust•11386 xpipe•Brembos/cross drilled/slotted rotors•SS M/C•Pfadt 1.25 springs•1LE struts/sways/strut tower brace•BMR diff bush, trail arms/bush, adj toe links•My custom Tunnel brace•Hurst short throw shifter•JDP stage 1 clutch res•1LE steering wheel, shift boot•ZL1 rear diffuser/splash guards•GM splitter•Z/28 grille/flowtie/spoiler/wheels•GM performance pedals•"Chevrolet" door sills•10" Kicker sub•BigWorm overlays

03-18-2016, 09:39 PM	#152
kmdracer Drives: 2015 black 1SS 1LE Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Wharton, Texas Posts: 130	Pondering BMR bushings for my 1LE. Pros, cons? How is the day to day ride affected? Do poly bushings last? __________________ 2015 Black 1SS 1LE.

03-19-2016, 03:12 PM	#154
kmdracer Drives: 2015 black 1SS 1LE Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Wharton, Texas Posts: 130	Thanks. Will do. __________________ 2015 Black 1SS 1LE.

03-11-2016, 07:07 AM	#144
hesster Drives: '10 C5 SS, '77 Bandit T/A Join Date: Dec 2015 Location: Michigan Posts: 339 View My Garage	APEX is spot on - although a pain to do, it should be worth it. REAR CRADLE SUB FRAME BUSHINGS - these can be removed using the 1” Socket and Torch method. Put a hydraulic jack under the Diff. I also used (4) Jack Stands for safety. Remove one 24mm Sub-Frame bolt, screw it back in 1/2" and repeat on the remaining three. Remove two sub-frame bolts on either the driver or passenger side. Lower the jack under the differential just enough to place a 1" socket in between the top of the sub-frame bush ferule. Use the second floor jack to lift the corner of the sub-frame with the socket. Add pressure once you are sure the socket is secure between the top of the bushing ferule and the 'frame' rail. Start with the Left Front. When you start to lift the car off the jack stand or Hoist/QuickJack, heat the metal that surrounds the sub-frame bushing. Keep heating until the bushing falls on the floor. Repeat on the Left Rear, you have to heat the hell out of it as it is a larger bushing. Clean the inside of the Bushing Housings in the Frame with a drill and wire wheel. Pop off the Bottom Bushing Metal Caps with a Pry Bar or Socket and extension. Install your new Bushings, I made a tool, ref the pics. Note – it is very unlikely that you can use the Vehicle’s weight or Cradle Bolts to seat the Rear Bushings, it will strip them. Use the lube supplied with the Bushings! Screw in the Cradle Bolts at least ½”. Repeat on the other side. Carefully cinch the Cradle up ensuring the Rear Dowel’s are aligned and the Cradle is seated, and Torque the (4) 21mm Bolts to 130 Ft Lbs. These are TTY, you should buy new!

03-11-2016, 03:00 PM	#145
hesster Drives: '10 C5 SS, '77 Bandit T/A Join Date: Dec 2015 Location: Michigan Posts: 339 View My Garage	The rest of the stuff -

03-11-2016, 04:49 PM	#147
hesster Drives: '10 C5 SS, '77 Bandit T/A Join Date: Dec 2015 Location: Michigan Posts: 339 View My Garage

03-18-2016, 03:56 PM	#150
hesster Drives: '10 C5 SS, '77 Bandit T/A Join Date: Dec 2015 Location: Michigan Posts: 339 View My Garage	Won't get into the debate on replacing TTY Bolts, but it is a small cost of my total Suspension Upgrades, and peace of mind. Sorted out where everything went, and added some pics of the difference in the Rear Toe Rod, LCA, and Trailing Arms. And if you wonder why you may have wheel hop, jut look at the difference of the Rear UCA Stock Bushing versus the BMR Delrin one!