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Old 03-20-2021, 01:41 PM   #29
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Interesting to see how much power this seems to get down very well, and on Toyo's too. One mention says 888's, although some images look like a different Toyo.

They don't seem to be using traction control persay...more power management via tuning in the first place to prevent traction loss instead, which ultimately is better than losing traction then trying to regain it.

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Old 03-20-2021, 07:03 PM   #30
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29.5 Micky Thompson type r 17's,with 2 way adjustable coil over's front and rear and mine hooks like a mother on the street when its warm out.845rwhp.700tq centri

Last edited by gsxrturbo; 03-21-2021 at 11:27 AM.
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Old 03-21-2021, 08:21 AM   #31
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Originally Posted by gsxrturbo View Post
29.5 Micky Thompson type r 17's,with adjustable coil over's front and rear and mine hooks like a mother on the street when its warm out.845rwhp.700tq centri
Iím thinking of the same rim/tires soon.
Iím around 900 as well and on 20ís mt et ss I spin a little in 3rd at 80 sometimes changing lanes lol. But no 1st or 2nd

BC coilovers, big rear bar, bmr toelinks, 3.27 gear.
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Old 03-21-2021, 11:26 AM   #32
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i had that same combo as you fleebag.mine spun till 80 to, with the 20"s and mt ss.didnt hook till half way through 3rd gear
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Old 03-23-2021, 01:40 PM   #33
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LOL roll racing....
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Old 03-23-2021, 02:45 PM   #34
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LOL roll racing....
Whatís wrong with roll racing? Iím a dig person but I understand roll racing. Itís fun,itís a lot less wear on driveline components, itís better for high horsepower street cars and easier to find locations. Iíve done a few and had fun
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Old 03-24-2021, 07:12 AM   #35
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Whatís wrong with roll racing?
Building a 2000hp car that can't hook up is the problem. They are free to go on rollin... and I am free to laugh at it.
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Old 03-24-2021, 07:53 AM   #36
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Building a 2000hp car that can't hook up is the problem. They are free to go on rollin... and I am free to laugh at it.
Competition roll racing is a joke I agree but for the average street racer with a 800hp build itís better. Plus the hp thatís available these days is just insane especially when you can hit a 1,000 with some pulleys, cam and meth. I agree about the hookah part Iím about to start doing all things to make my car hook right after I do my cam install. I canít hook as is from a dig but still on street tires.
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Old 03-25-2021, 10:04 AM   #37
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I feel my car had more traction with stock 3.45 and stock cradle bushings. After the 3.73 ZL1 diff and DSE solid bushings - holy crap lack of traction... Car isn't making any more power, but with the cradle now not moving around and the bit of extra gear ratio traction is non existent.

Next time I go home (GA) I will check the that the bushes are timed properly and get JPSS drag spec alignment done...
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Old 03-26-2021, 11:47 AM   #38
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I am running a 17" MT Street SS with a 3:23 ZL1 rear on a M6 and 70 degrees and warmer I hook pretty hard from a dig. I run 15 lbs of boost with 1LE suspension.
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Old 03-26-2021, 09:15 PM   #39
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I am running a 17" MT Street SS with a 3:23 ZL1 rear on a M6 and 70 degrees and warmer I hook pretty hard from a dig. I run 15 lbs of boost with 1LE suspension.
That 3:23 is helping you along with the MT Street Ss's... is the hookin hard on the street or the track?
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Old 03-26-2021, 11:14 PM   #40
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I had 3.23 and now 3.73 with my zl1 and it’s much more fun with 3.73. Even with no traction. I would rather get on a dyno to fill in my tune anyway. Street tunes at this power level is not gonna work.
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Old 03-29-2021, 07:29 AM   #41
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I had 3.23 and now 3.73 with my zl1 and itís much more fun with 3.73. Even with no traction. I would rather get on a dyno to fill in my tune anyway. Street tunes at this power level is not gonna work.
Yes the 3:73 are more fun on the street.
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Old 03-29-2021, 08:48 AM   #42
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I wish someone made a 3.50 for the ZL1 diff. I'm currently 3.73 and run out of gear in the 1/4 about 1200' and shift from 2 to 3 at 600' in the 1/8. 3.50 would be perfect for my set up.


If I weren't lowered, I could fit the MT ET Street R 315/50*17 in my wheel well and simulate a 3.50 final ratio.
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