DIY-Wired DRLs with switch to have full control over DRLs

[IROCanSS]

I wanted to use "thebrainhart" method to wire my DRLs as fogs but was not too keen on the "ALWAYS ON" idea. I mean, what if I don't want them on. What if I want to have just the halos on...

So I expanded on his design and added a switch. Here is the DIY. Also refer to this thread for more details on the process. I just elaborated on his method.

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=44104

All you have to do is where he jumped from the brown to dark blue and purple to light blue is add the switch leads between the diode and the purple and brown wires. I did every thing in the house and then went out and spliced to the car. Piece of cake, all I did was remove the right front tire and inner fender. It was easier to just remove the entire inner fender then to try to tape it out of the way.

What I did in the house:

1. Attached the anode end (no bar) of each diode to a small piece (6") of green wire, I believe I used 18 ga, stranded. (use whatever color you want)

2. To the cathode end (with bar) of both diodes, attach another small piece of green wire. This is what you will use to tie into the car. Much easier to tie wire to wire than wire to diode when under the car.

3. Attach the other ends of the green wires (from step 1 - anode end) togther and to a long piece of green wire, mine was about 14' (whatever was left off the 15' roll I bought). The long end will be your ACC to your 12V switch. The two short pieces with the diodes attach to the car's wiring. (dark blue and light blue)

4. I took 2 - 6" pieces of red wire and connected them together to another long piece of red wire. The long end will be your POWER to your 12V swich. The two short pieces will attach to you car's wiring. (brown and purple)

Once I had this contraption made, i went to the car...

5. Remove everything necessary.

6. Unplug the wiring harness and use the car end, not the bumper end, access is MUCH easier.

7. Remove the split loom and save, it will fit back on.

8. Find the 4 wires and make your connections.... RED to BROWN, RED to PURPLE, GREEN to LIGHT BLUE, GREEN to DARK BLUE.

9. Solder and tape it all up pretty, replace split loom.

10. Run the wires to the inside of vehicle. I drilled a small hole in the plate where the hood release comes through the firewall, ran my wires and put everything back together. Works like a charm. I have full contol over the fogs.

Here is my wiring diagram.... The arrows denote the flow of power through the diode. The only thing i dont show is the small pieces of wire between the diode and the light blue/dark blue wires. That was an after thought as I was building the jumper.





ENJOY THE CONTROL! Now someone needs to make a PLUG AND PLAY with a switch! I tired but the wiring harnesses were crazy expensive... . Rep at dealer told me GM is very rpoud of their connectors.

[FwyFlyer]

Originally Posted by jrhaus76

I wanted to use "thebrainhart" method to wire my DRLs as fogs but was not too keen on the "ALWAYS ON" idea. I mean, what if I don't want them on. What if I want to have just the halos on...

So I expanded on his design and added a switch. Here is the DIY. Also refer to this thread for more details on the process. I just elaborated on his method.

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=44104

All you have to do is where he jumped from the brown to dark blue and purple to light blue is add the switch leads between the diode and the purple and brown wires. I did every thing in the house and then went out and spliced to the car. Piece of cake, all I did was remove the right front tire and inner fender. It was easier to just remove the entire inner fender then to try to tape it out of the way.

What I did in the house:

1. Attached the anode end (no bar) of each diode to a small piece (6") of green wire, I believe I used 18 ga, stranded. (use whatever color you want)

2. To the cathode end (with bar) of both diodes, attach another small piece of green wire. This is what you will use to tie into the car. Much easier to tie wire to wire than wire to diode when under the car.

3. Attach the other ends of the green wires (from step 1 - anode end) togther and to a long piece of green wire, mine was about 14' (whatever was left off the 15' roll I bought). The long end will be your ACC to your 12V switch. The two short pieces with the diodes attach to the car's wiring. (dark blue and light blue)

4. I took 2 - 6" pieces of red wire and connected them together to another long piece of red wire. The long end will be your POWER to your 12V swich. The two short pieces will attach to you car's wiring. (brown and purple)

Once I had this contraption made, i went to the car...

5. Remove everything necessary.

6. Unplug the wiring harness and use the car end, not the bumper end, access is MUCH easier.

7. Remove the split loom and save, it will fit back on.

8. Find the 4 wires and make your connections.... RED to BROWN, RED to PURPLE, GREEN to LIGHT BLUE, GREEN to DARK BLUE.

9. Solder and tape it all up pretty, replace split loom.

10. Run the wires to the inside of vehicle. I drilled a small hole in the plate where the hood release comes through the firewall, ran my wires and put everything back together. Works like a charm. I have full contol over the fogs.

Here is my wiring diagram.... The arrows denote the flow of power through the diode. The only thing i dont show is the small pieces of wire between the diode and the light blue/dark blue wires. That was an after thought as I was building the jumper.





ENJOY THE CONTROL! Now someone needs to make a PLUG AND PLAY with a switch! I tired but the wiring harnesses were crazy expensive... . Rep at dealer told me GM is very rpoud of their connectors.

All hail theBRAINhart! He inspired me to do this mod too. I want to be able to control the fogs at night. I've got all my connectors to make it plug and play but still waiting for the correct crimpers to be delivered . I figure the connectors/terminals/seals/wire/diodes and split wrap will run me about $20 a harness, plus a switch. I came on here to see if anyone could tell me what AWG the DRL/parking wires were. You used 18 for your splice? I assume that was adequate? Also, where did you mount your switch? I will probably add a relay between the switch and the lamps, so add another $6. Thanks for the post! this forum is way cool

[IROCanSS]

Originally Posted by FwyFlyer

I came on here to see if anyone could tell me what AWG the DRL/parking wires were. You used 18 for your splice? I assume that was adequate? Also, where did you mount your switch? I will probably add a relay between the switch and the lamps, so add another $6. Thanks for the post! this forum is way cool

18 is plenty. I think thats what the factory is. It seemed to be the same size wires. I didnt mount the switch, I just stuck up under the dash. I will likely never turn them off but want the option. I didnt want to drill a hole anywhere to mount the switch so I just tucked it up.

[strauchpete]

one thing from what I have looked into is that the placement of the diode, I talked with the master tech from the dealership and going over the wiring. If there is a power surge, when the cars PCM thinks the fogs should be off it could possibly cause a back feed and cause problems. If that does happen the dealer has every right to void the warranty on the PCM and all the entire electrical system.

The best way to wire up the fogs like that would not be to use a diode but to 5 wire a relay so that there will be no back feed into the PCM.

[IROCanSS]

Originally Posted by strauchpete

one thing from what I have looked into is that the placement of the diode, I talked with the master tech from the dealership and going over the wiring. If there is a power surge, when the cars PCM thinks the fogs should be off it could possibly cause a back feed and cause problems. If that does happen the dealer has every right to void the warranty on the PCM and all the entire electrical system.

The best way to wire up the fogs like that would not be to use a diode but to 5 wire a relay so that there will be no back feed into the PCM.

Well I will say that does not make me happy to hear that.

I do see what you mean, looking at my wire diagram above, when the power flows from the jumper through the diode to the light and dark blue wires for the DRLs, the power could back feed into the PCM, as well as to the lights themselves when its not supposed to be on... I see how this could be an issue... hmm. Would it work better wired like this? Its an easy fix. It would always run as designed and there would never be back feed into the PCM.



What if you added another set of diodes on the the upstream end of the light and dark blue to avoid this. Basically the diode would not allow power to go back to the PCM, only allow it to flow to the lights, not back...

[IROCanSS]

UPDATE....

Rewired with diodes to prevent the back feed to the PCM when the fogs are feeding off the parking lamps. That was a HUGE oversite. Those diodes need to be installed. Follow my diagram #2 using 4 diodes. Even of you don't do a switch, you need to prevent this backfeed.

Basically on "thebrainhart" method, whenever you have the headlights on, the PCM is getting backfed... BAD!!!

[strauchpete]

ya that would work the same way as using a relay, your way uses less wiring and little more hidden then relays.

I also was thinking that also the wiring how it is done for the parking lights is over kill also, the parking lights how you tap into both the left and the right side are allready 1 circuit further back in the engine bay so really you would only have to tap into one side of to get power, but I just dont know how much amps that the parking light circuit can handle might blow some fuses but I am not 100% sure.

O ya forgot to ask what amp diode are you using?

[strauchpete]

Here is another way of doing it, this is how I am going to do it personally I just like using relays better then diodes.

[TommyTSquared]

Finally my circuits class has payed off!

[IROCanSS]

Originally Posted by strauchpete

ya that would work the same way as using a relay, your way uses less wiring and little more hidden then relays.

I also was thinking that also the wiring how it is done for the parking lights is over kill also, the parking lights how you tap into both the left and the right side are allready 1 circuit further back in the engine bay so really you would only have to tap into one side of to get power, but I just dont know how much amps that the parking light circuit can handle might blow some fuses but I am not 100% sure.

O ya forgot to ask what amp diode are you using?

Radio Shack Zener Diode #IN4742A
12.0 V
21 mA
1.0 W max power dissipation

This OK? I'd hate to have to go in and change them. i am really glad you caught this. It is very easy to add that inline diode and i agree, it should solve the problem. I posted it on the main DRL/fog thread so people are aware. thank you so much for pointing it out!

[IROCanSS]

Originally Posted by TommyTSquared

Finally my circuits class has payed off!

Somehow I got an A in circuits in college.

[strauchpete]

A Zener diode is a type of diode that permits current not only in the forward direction like a normal diode, but also in the reverse direction if the voltage is larger than the breakdown voltage known as "Zener knee voltage" or "Zener voltage

This is the diode that you used
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2049725

I would use
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2062591

Just with zener diodes that at regular 14v they work fine but if the the voltage gets to high or low they are ment to unload and work backwards. The should work fine being a zener but I dont know if they will last that long with not being a low amp diode. Might be better to put HID in your fogs because they draw less amps then regular bulbs.

[SSTony]

i ordered all 4 halo rings and i have no clue about this stuff. i hope i dont do this wrong and set my car on fire. I just want my rings to turn on and off with a switch.

[IROCanSS]

Originally Posted by SSTony

i ordered all 4 halo rings and i have no clue about this stuff. i hope i dont do this wrong and set my car on fire. I just want my rings to turn on and off with a switch.

draw it out on paper first and follow the current. if it can flow back to the PCM, you need to fix that! I am not sure how the smaller halos hook up so I am not much help. sorry.