03-16-2019, 08:23 PM | #1 |
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Installed some upgrades this week on my daily driver
Shocks and struts were feeling worn out and tired, the suspension felt a bit loose, with a bad front sway bar link. The shifter felt sloppy, and I've been fighting intermittent clutch pedal issues for the last year or so.
I've also grown to despise the way GM implemented hill start assist in this car, especially after driving my girlfriend's mustang. HSA on that car is perfect! So I spent a lot of time researching and ordering parts, and spent the last week installing it all with the car on jack stands in my apartment garage. Some day I'd love to have a lift, but overall nothing was too terrible really. Here's my part list and my impressions so far: I ended up with Pedders Xa coilovers, Pedders rear subframe mount inserts and radius arm inserts (will be switching the radius arms out with z28 arms soon), I got an MGW shifter, a new clutch master cylinder and new tick stainless clutch line. I also swapped out the yaw sensor under the center console with one from an automatic to disable hill start assist! When I first got the car, I had installed some aqua blue footwell lighting, but with age the passenger side actually cracked and fell down so I replaced those as well. This was the most I've had this car taken apart since I bought it, but the other major mods are the monster LT1 clutch, and some R1 concepts rotors and EBC red pads. I wish I had more pictures, but I was on a timeline to get everything back together for an alignment and bush timing. I'll try to add more a bit later. Pedders Xa coilovers: I went with the"recommended" height of 660mm in the Pedders install instructions. I figured that would be a solid starting point, and I like it so far. My original ride height was 670 - 678 mm. Quite a bit of variation between each corner. I measured with a metric "yardstick" from the bottom wheel lip to the bottom of the fender. So far, 660mm is a pretty good height. I have my winter wheels on, which have meaty tires, but I'll make the final decision when I switch wheels (hopefully soon here in the Northeast). The fronts fill the wheel wells perfectly and the car looks better leveled out. Install was actually pretty easy. The only real fabrication work you need to do is drill the hole in the rear shock mount for the adjuster. I'm still trying to figure out if I should put some foam or something to seal the hole better against water and debris. Setting up the spring preload was a bit confusing at first, the install instructions give a paragraph at a time and reference drawings would go a long way to clarifying whichever points you measure. Once I got the gist of it, I was able to set all 4 up and reinstall within a couple hours. I did have to drop the front struts out to fit the larger sway bar link bolts. Driving around on 15 front / 10 rear for damping has been awesome so far! The ride is definitely firmer, but not in a harsh way. The OEM struts weren't completely failed, but they definitely weren't damping like they should. I get almost no brake dive, and just a little squat on acceleration. I originally ordered OEM 1LE struts and Hotchkiss lowering springs, trying to be thrifty, but the order got messed up. I was looking at an additional 2 weeks for parts to come in, despite ordering a month in advance. I'm actually much happier with the Pedders. MGW shifter: Seriously, why did I wait so long? I was happy with the 1LE shifter, but I had driven my 2010 Synergy Camaro with a Barton shifter so I knew it could be better... I had no idea just how much better the MGW was, but now I do! Shifting is so effortless, it's almost like the shifter knows what I want. The only down side is that I couldn't use my custom "1LE" EPCO shift knob on the OEM style MGW stick. Pedders bushing inserts: These were also just as night/day difference as the shifter. It's a crime how much slop is in the rear from those bushings. I ended up installing these first and forgot to measure ride height, so I put everything back together and drove around the corner with just the subframe inserts installed. The inserts alone fixed the bucking issue when I would be coasting in first gear or trying to go really slow. They also firmed up the first gear launch and shifts up and down. I went with inserts because I'm not a track rat and couldn't justify $500+... But now I'm a believer. Radius inserts definitely add a more firm and crisp turn, like a more direct affect on the wheels when you move the steering wheel, but my radius arms are actually going to be swapped out entirely for z28 versions soon. Clutch master and line: I was having some really odd, totally intermittent issues with the clutch pedal feeling looser than it should have been, like it had free play the last inch or so of travel at the top. Sometimes it would get looser, sometimes it would get firmer. The only common thread I could find was heat, and switching to ATE type 200 fluid helped... But didn't entirely eliminate the issue. I had my clutch replaced last year, but I'm pretty sure the culprit was the damn master cylinder. I also swapped out the line with tick's stainless, heat wrapped line since I wanted to be sure. My pedal feels perfect now, and engagement is much smoother and more linear. The old master felt notchy and doesn't move nearly as smoothly. There was fluid around the ports at the firewall, like it had been leaking - and possibly introducing air. If you have issues with the clutch pedal, the matter is worth checking. It's only an $80 part compared to the $2200 I paid to have the clutch replaced. Overall, I'm falling in love with the car again. I kept seeing the 15% deals pop up trying to push Camaro sales, but I think I'll be holding onto this one for a long time... At least until New England rust gives it a terminal diagnosis! Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
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03-17-2019, 02:41 AM | #2 |
Drives: Miss Con Ception Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Chicagoland
Posts: 2,998
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I did the Pedders inserts within three months of buying my Camaro.
Less expensive than solids and much easier to install. World of difference!
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2011 1SS/RS LS3 CGM
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03-17-2019, 05:33 PM | #3 | |
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Quote:
So happy now!
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03-21-2019, 10:03 PM | #4 |
YES! I have driven manuals my whole life and bought my 1LE in December. The only times I have stalled it, hill-hold assist was engaged... I dread seeing "! hill start assist active" on the info screen. Thank you so much for letting me know I can disable that.
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03-22-2019, 08:07 AM | #5 |
Drives: 2015 SS/RS 1LE Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Milwaukee, WI
Posts: 537
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FYI- If your on an incline and you know the HSA might activate, you can disable/turn off by just clicking the parking brake up one notch until you get going.
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03-22-2019, 08:13 AM | #6 |
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Yeah, I knew about that trick. I would usually just try to be off the brake before I hit the clutch and put it in gear. But sometimes it just wasn't enough. The only time I stalled or smelled the clutch was when hill start was engaged.
Now I just don't have to worry about it at all Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
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03-22-2019, 10:46 AM | #7 |
Oh? Thank you for that. Glad to know I can disable it situationally when it is active. It doesn't activate often, but when it does, its always jarring. Learning as I go!
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