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Old 05-13-2021, 11:01 AM   #29
ccss713
 
Drives: 2010 2SS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ADVMax View Post
There have been times with mine that they kind of lose communication one at a time, after a while I can stop, cycle the key and all is well again. Seemed like cold weather may have had something to do with it but this year through the cold weather the TPMS worked OK.


Most of the time they work, sometimes they don't?



Did they source the TPMS system from BMW?
This seems like more of RCDLR problem also. What kind of range are you getting on your key fob to unlock the doors? My sensors would only work for 25 minutes of driving after being programmed and then drop off. NOTHING would ever get them to come back except re-synching the sensors with the tool. It was very predictable. If it seems more random, I think that points to a problem with the receiver (RCDLR) or maybe some type of interference with a dash cam.
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Old 05-13-2021, 12:06 PM   #30
LarryD
 
Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS Manual Trans
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Really a confusing issue. Schrader says that the 22854866 is the 314.9MHz sensor and the 13598772 is the 315MHz sensor. I am pretty certain that my originals were 13598772 but I am going to take one of my old wheels in and have the tire dismounted to check again. My new ones are 13598772 and don't work. My car is an early 2010 (9101055).
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Old 05-13-2021, 02:50 PM   #31
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So, I changed out the front set to my old tires (now that the lug nut was removed). Right away, the system read the back two which had been programmed with the new tires on the front without relearning them. I programmed them again and drove about 10 miles, the failure showed up but this time instead of showing all dashes for all 4 wheels, it showed dashes only on one wheel and the others kept reading.

Had the sensor removed from one of my other tires (I have two sets of 21 inch originals that always worked). The old sensor is 12768826 and is marked 315MHz. Interestingly the internet says it is non-programmed whereas the Roadfar part says it is programmed. Interestingly Schrader says the 12768826 is a 314.9MHz part just the opposite of what it is marked. I wonder if GM marked everything 315MHz even if it was 314.9?
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Old 05-13-2021, 08:14 PM   #32
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I believe 314.9 and 315mhz are pretty much functionally the same. These new 314.9 sensor will work on a 2010... for 25 minutes. But there's something else about them that keeps them from reporting back to that system after the initial programming. It's the same if a properly functioning sensor is separated from the vehicle. It will keep reading the last pressure but after 25 minutes of not reporting back to the RCDLR, it will throw the dashes on the DIC. I really don't know what the difference is that makes certain ones work, but I don't believe it's the frequency (MHZ).
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Old 05-13-2021, 09:06 PM   #33
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I wonder if the programming is an issue and if that is why the Roadfar ones work. I notice they list my old part number on the Roadfar compatibility list.
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Old 05-14-2021, 10:00 AM   #34
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Looks like I will just have to buy 4 of the Roadfar sensors and see if that works. If not, give up. I tried using my old tires on the back of the car and that didn't work so just replacing one won't work either. It didn't start reading until I put all 4 of the old tires back on. Maybe try the pipe with 4 of the new sensors to see if they work before having them installed in the new tires.
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Old 06-13-2021, 03:14 PM   #35
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Finally Fixed!!!!!!!!!! Thanks to the info from ccss713 mine are working with the new Roadfar ones. I bought a new set as recommended in ccss713's message and had them installed after driving around for a couple of weeks with them in a pressure tube. Been driving with them installed for another couple of weeks and everything is now fine. GM has absolutely the wrong part number listed for the car and couldn't figure out why it wouldn't work.....
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Old 06-14-2021, 02:57 PM   #36
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Awesome! Glad I could save someone from all the hassle I had to go through. It really is a shame that the dealer had no idea about this issue and could not troubleshoot it for crap. I've realized they are parts swappers more than real mechanics and it's pointless to bring a 2010 there.
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Old 06-15-2021, 03:03 AM   #37
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I'm experiencing all this thread right now in a 2011.

Tpms go out after 20 mins of driving or so.

My rcdl is in windshield .
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Old 06-15-2021, 09:07 PM   #38
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I've swapped rcdlr. It did nothing

Looks like its back to finding proper tpms but I guess Ill have to to the pressure tube trick.

Its annoying as I purchased what I was told to and more yet the car doesnt store information and the ones I read will work say in the ads not compatible.
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Old 06-15-2021, 11:11 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ccss713 View Post
Awesome! Glad I could save someone from all the hassle I had to go through. It really is a shame that the dealer had no idea about this issue and could not troubleshoot it for crap. I've realized they are parts swappers more than real mechanics and it's pointless to bring a 2010 there.
Thanks for the tpms link on Amazon. I'll try these. I bought and installed see that also lose their signal after 20 minutes.
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Old 06-16-2021, 10:14 AM   #40
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Originally Posted by Demolino View Post
So I had the identical issue. I purchased the one you recommended. I used a machine to learn it outside of the tire, in place of front tire. It read zero psi for the 20 minutes, but went to dashes with the other three. Shaking didn't help. The 13958772 are in the tires now. Did I miss a step? Does the car know it's not in the tire? Did you try it for the first time mounted? What do you think. Ty.
I tried them for this first time not mounted. It shouldn't matter if they are mounted or not in order to test if they will stay connected. Try shaking them harder or hitting them against something. The forces as the sensor rotates in the wheel are pretty high, maybe you aren't moving them enough to activate them.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pagliaro View Post
I've swapped rcdlr. It did nothing

Looks like its back to finding proper tpms but I guess Ill have to to the pressure tube trick.

Its annoying as I purchased what I was told to and more yet the car doesnt store information and the ones I read will work say in the ads not compatible.
I don't believe you are dealing with the same problem since it's a 2011. The pressure tube trick won't work if your sensors can't stay connected. What sensors are you running now? You could always buy one of the amazon ones to test and I believe they have free returns
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Old 06-16-2021, 04:30 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ccss713 View Post
I tried them for this first time not mounted. It shouldn't matter if they are mounted or not in order to test if they will stay connected. Try shaking them harder or hitting them against something. The forces as the sensor rotates in the wheel are pretty high, maybe you aren't moving them enough to activate them.



I don't believe you are dealing with the same problem since it's a 2011. The pressure tube trick won't work if your sensors can't stay connected. What sensors are you running now? You could always buy one of the amazon ones to test and I believe they have free returns
The symptoms are the exact same, All 4 TPMS lose connection brand new ac Delco 13598772 . All can be programmed and last 20-30 mins then just drop off. All 4 -- / service tpms message.

Original working tpms was 22854866
I am going to place one wheel from my original in trunk program it and 3 wheels and see what happens if it stays on while the others drop.
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Last edited by Pagliaro; 06-16-2021 at 06:09 PM.
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Old 06-16-2021, 09:32 PM   #42
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Wow, I thought the issue was limited to only the early 2010s. Amazing that chevy can't even provide a working TPM sensor for a 10 year old car. If the 22854866 is working for you I bet the amazon ones would work
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