10-16-2023, 08:47 AM | #15 |
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One thing to look into it the wiring harness that passes through the front of the door jam into the door for the power windows/locks and power mirror. It is common for these wires to get pinched and or break from the flexing of this harness inside the rubber boot. Issue can be at either end, door jam or door. Since you hear a clicking when opening the door and are blowing fuses, you could have a broken/scuffed power wire in this harness going to ground.
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10-16-2023, 08:59 AM | #16 |
Drives: 2010 Camaro SS2,L99, LSA SC Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Huntsville, AL
Posts: 2,155
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The BCM issue I was helping diagnose was being done remotely on a kit car forum and we eliminated everything upstream to the BCM so the BCM was replaced. It still shot the fuse afterwards. Unfortunately the person I was helping dropped off the forum when the BCM didn't resolve the problem so no final answer.
It probably won't be a sensor grounding since the current is so low and many are designed to ground. It will probably be something the ECM is actually powering. I think this will limited number, but I haven't studied the wiring diagram to confirm. And the ECM is probably different from a BCM in this regard. At some point you might have to try the replacement as a next step. I'm not sure how you could test the ecm itself for shorts to ground. Maybe check for 0 resistance from a power feed to the an ecm ground circuit? |
10-16-2023, 09:43 AM | #17 |
Big Crow
Drives: '13 ZL1 Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: California
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That's the problem when someone has two threads going on the same topic. I repeated what you said in the other thread before I read this.
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10-16-2023, 10:28 AM | #18 |
Drives: 2013 Camaro 2SS AGM Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: WNY
Posts: 733
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I did see that & it does get confusing. Here is a power distribution diagram but it is hard to post a full page & probably wont help much.
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10-16-2023, 03:36 PM | #19 | ||
2011 Camaro LT V6
Drives: 2011 Chevrolet Camaro LT (V6) Join Date: Oct 2019
Location: Maryland
Posts: 42
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Quote:
Quote:
I'm out to go exploring more wiring harnesses...
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2011 Camaro LT (V6)
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10-16-2023, 06:17 PM | #20 | ||
2011 Camaro LT V6
Drives: 2011 Chevrolet Camaro LT (V6) Join Date: Oct 2019
Location: Maryland
Posts: 42
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Quote:
That ScannerDan Youtube channel referenced in the link above is great. I should trailer my car up to Pittsburgh and have him and his students have at it. He'd probably figure it out in an hour. Anyway... I watched one of his videos where the main power train relay was the culprit. In my studying, the only thing listed as upstream of this ECM FUSE blowing was that very Powertrain relay (K26) in the engine compartment fuse block. So I decided to test it. The relay tested out fine on the bench. 80ohms across the control terminals, and with 12V applied across control terminals, relay clicks and continuity is confirmed on load terminals. Quote:
I'm not sure what to make of all of this. Note that I have learned that the key position makes no difference. It's whether the car is awake or asleep. And it seems to blow the fuse at the point it decides to go to sleep, strange! I would also think that when the fuse is good, I would see battery voltage on each terminal of the fuse. Why am I only seeing it on one leg? Doesn't make sense to me, as each leg is only separated by a 1/4" of fuse material. I'm measuring the voltage using the contact on the top of each leg of the fuse, with it installed. Multimeter ground is on a good ground. I even swapped the K26 fuse with the K55 fuse (rear defogger). Same issue, so I'm pretty certain the relay is OK. Anyone see any clues from this?
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2011 Camaro LT (V6)
Last edited by Gunn; 10-16-2023 at 06:30 PM. |
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10-16-2023, 07:50 PM | #21 |
Drives: 2010 Camaro SS2,L99, LSA SC Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Huntsville, AL
Posts: 2,155
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If you aren’t getting the same voltage on each side of the fuse (voltage above zero) then the fuse is bad or your measurement is wrong.
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10-16-2023, 07:52 PM | #22 | |
Big Crow
Drives: '13 ZL1 Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: California
Posts: 1,487
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Quote:
Ooops beaten to the post again. Then if it's not your imagination and the fuse blows precisly when a relay clicks. Carefully label each relay with masking tape sharpie and take a pic. THEN pull them out and replace them one by one. If what you noted is true then when it blows stop. Swap out a different same type relay and see if that still blows. If no its a bad relay. If yes you'll know the circuit that has a short. We still lean towards a short somewhere. |
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10-17-2023, 05:34 AM | #23 |
Drives: 2013 Camaro 2SS AGM Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: WNY
Posts: 733
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Here is the ignition flow sequence. If you need ant diagrams let me know.
Circuit Description (Key Start) When the ignition switch is placed in the Start position, a discrete signal is supplied to the body control module (BCM) notifying it that the ignition is in the Start position. The BCM then sends a message to the engine control module (ECM) notifying it that CRANK has been requested. The ECM verifies that the transmission is in Park or Neutral. If it is, the ECM then supplies 12 V to the control circuit of the crank relay. When this occurs, battery positive voltage is supplied through the switch side of the crank relay to the S terminal of the starter solenoid.
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2013 2SS GPI built & tuned 415, spec'd by Andrew Cammer. GPI ported intake/tb/heads, Tooley springs, CHE trunnions, Callies rotating assembly, Diamond pistons, GPI SS3 VVT, ATI 10% ud damper, Circle D 3800, Kooks ceramic coated lt's with green cats, Mishimoto rad & oil cooler, Derale trans cooler, Holley efi rails.
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10-17-2023, 06:28 AM | #24 |
Drives: 2013 ZL1 Join Date: Sep 2021
Location: Virginia
Posts: 302
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If you have an old school (non LED) test light put it in series in place of the fuse. It will glow brightly when there is a short with less danger of burning something up with a fuse. It's doubtful it's a relay, start disconnecting connectors when your test light goes out you know what circuit/area to look at.
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10-17-2023, 08:43 PM | #25 | |
2011 Camaro LT V6
Drives: 2011 Chevrolet Camaro LT (V6) Join Date: Oct 2019
Location: Maryland
Posts: 42
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Quote:
So I was thinking about these measurements and while I didn't get a chance to head out to the car today after work, I think I realized what my measurements were telling me. I'm betting the fuse blew as soon as I opened the door to wake the car up. By the time I got back to the fuse box and multimeter, I checked voltage, and only saw it on one side of the fuse...the battery side. Then, 90 seconds later the car went back to sleep, the relay clicked off, and my voltage went to zero. That's when I assumed the fuse blew. But it had been blew all along, I'm thinking now. I need to get a helper out to help me and test it again.
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2011 Camaro LT (V6)
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10-17-2023, 08:44 PM | #26 | |
2011 Camaro LT V6
Drives: 2011 Chevrolet Camaro LT (V6) Join Date: Oct 2019
Location: Maryland
Posts: 42
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Quote:
Actually, I'm not sure if they are or not. I kinda assumed that test lights were incandescent to create a safety net sort of speak which will limit the amount of current that can flow through...
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2011 Camaro LT (V6)
Last edited by Gunn; 10-17-2023 at 10:36 PM. |
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10-17-2023, 09:20 PM | #27 | |
Big Crow
Drives: '13 ZL1 Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: California
Posts: 1,487
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Quote:
Some generic, is it 1157 IIRC ? |
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10-18-2023, 12:01 AM | #28 |
Drives: 15SS Camaro Join Date: Dec 2020
Location: US
Posts: 346
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I'm not up on all you have done so far but I did skim through things. I'd be disconnecting and testing injectors coils etc before taking a chance on putting a ECM in there because if something is shorted other than the ECM itself it may instantly fry the new ecm. At least follow the diagrams and disconnect everything from the ecm. You should be able to find a dead short like this pretty quickly, I know I could using a ohm meter and a test light. Unfortunately I've been down this road many times and it can be very costly if you don't think things through carefully. If you know of a good tech in your area it may be worth it to let them diagnose it. I know finding any good knowledgeable techs today is a really tough. Last time I had to use the local dealer to simply reprogram the key fobs because they stopped working they were stumped and tried to chase their tails on my money. I stopped their crazed frenzy of blaming this and that by simply requiring them to FOLLOW GM's procedure to reprogram the fobs, Fixed it. Good Luck
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