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Old 10-13-2019, 11:25 PM   #15
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What are everyone's thoughts about glue pulling painless dent repair when the back can't be accessed?



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Old 10-14-2019, 09:31 AM   #16
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ive seen that done with dents that were going to be painted afterwards but never seen it done with glue before,seems like it would work if you have a good PDR man.
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Old 10-14-2019, 10:54 AM   #17
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It won't work when a body line is involved the way yours is. Your only option is a shop repair or leave it alone.
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Old 10-14-2019, 11:02 AM   #18
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They may be right; Ive had a similar dent on one of my rough daily drivers and I was told the same thing. Go to an excellent body shop and get their opinion. It might require body work. If you can live with the dent then just keep it as is. Just take notes: Cars that (I) won't tolerate nicks, dings and scratches never go out unsupervised. It will mitigate idiot marks and situations like the OP. Good luck.
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Old 10-14-2019, 03:47 PM   #19
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Between my wife and my mom, I think my car is safer on the road, except for the bazillion chips behind the tires of course. If the OP has had it four years and only has one ding, he is doing pretty good in my book.

I just had PDR done on my mine last year and I took the cover off a couple months back to find a ding very similar to the OP (nobody knows how it could have happened). It kills me every time I see it and now it sounds like it's unfixable. Oh well, let the person who buys it when I'm dead repaint the car.
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Old 10-14-2019, 04:01 PM   #20
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I bought my Camaro used from a BMW dealer, there were I believe 4-5 dings in various noticeable places. They called a specialist and I watched him take them all out, it was amazing.
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Old 10-14-2019, 09:13 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PDXSSCE View Post
What are everyone's thoughts about glue pulling painless dent repair when the back can't be accessed?


Why not
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Old 10-14-2019, 11:43 PM   #22
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Why not
Sorry, why not what?
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Old 10-15-2019, 09:05 AM   #23
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Sorry, why not what?
You asked what are our thoughts. Why not do this, you see for yourself how it works.
Unless the tech doesn't know what he's doing and burns the paint or something why not do this, it works. I've had PDR done in the past. That's what I suggested to give a try to your dent. I'm not sure the crease will come out perfect but do expect it to fix it good enough for a driver car, on a white color car.
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Old 10-15-2019, 09:19 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by silversleeper View Post
You asked what are our thoughts. Why not do this, you see for yourself how it works.
Unless the tech doesn't know what he's doing and burns the paint or something why not do this, it works. I've had PDR done in the past. That's what I suggested to give a try to your dent. I'm not sure the crease will come out perfect but do expect it to fix it good enough for a driver car, on a white color car.
That's my concern. I've read that due to the quality of the factory paint job and/or the ability of the person doing it, there have been instances in which the clear coat and maybe the paint comes off with the glue when the pull occurs.
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Old 10-18-2019, 11:05 PM   #25
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I was professionally trained in PDR and did it on and off for a couple of years a while back. That particular location is not completely accessible due to the double-wall metal there. A tech. can make and access hole in the inner wheel housing to get to about the upper half of it, I would estimate.
However, the lower part towards the wheel lip simply can't be reached from inside. To add to that, the dent is going across the body line on the wheel lip. Those dents are pretty difficult to get out completely even when access is good.
With the car being white, you have an advantage. You might need to just bite the bullet and have it pulled from the outside (either glue method or slide pull) and then do traditional fill and spray. You Might be able to get away without a full quarter spray-- just do an open blend into the lower portion of the wheel opening flare area. Again, I wouldn't recommend that particular fix if it was any other color-- all others would require a full quarter spray-- if not a full quarter & door blend.
That said, honestly it's not that bad. I know that YOU know where it is, but I bet the average passer-by wouldn't catch it. Maybe just live with it...
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Old 10-18-2019, 11:56 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CHRISCAM View Post
I was professionally trained in PDR and did it on and off for a couple of years a while back. That particular location is not completely accessible due to the double-wall metal there. A tech. can make and access hole in the inner wheel housing to get to about the upper half of it, I would estimate.
However, the lower part towards the wheel lip simply can't be reached from inside. To add to that, the dent is going across the body line on the wheel lip. Those dents are pretty difficult to get out completely even when access is good.
With the car being white, you have an advantage. You might need to just bite the bullet and have it pulled from the outside (either glue method or slide pull) and then do traditional fill and spray. You Might be able to get away without a full quarter spray-- just do an open blend into the lower portion of the wheel opening flare area. Again, I wouldn't recommend that particular fix if it was any other color-- all others would require a full quarter spray-- if not a full quarter & door blend.
That said, honestly it's not that bad. I know that YOU know where it is, but I bet the average passer-by wouldn't catch it. Maybe just live with it...
Your suggestion is genuinely appreciated. What's a slide pull?
There's a PDR guy claiming to be able to get behind it by removing the taillight and accessing it with a very thin tool. What's your thought?
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Old 10-19-2019, 08:06 AM   #27
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Good luck with your dent Pdxssce !

I have a dent in the middle of my passenger rear
wheel opening right in the body line tooo.

I work at an Auto auction and i see Dent Wizard
there almost every day with all their dent tools.
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Old 10-19-2019, 10:11 AM   #28
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The other thing you could try is to use either a hair dryer or heat gun to heat up the metal then pour cold water over the area and see if it will smooth out a bit with expansion / contraction from heating and cooling. It’s kind of a long shot but I’ve heard people have some success with it.
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