05-07-2015, 11:08 PM | #43 |
Drives: 2011 Camaro LT1 Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Florida, United States
Posts: 336
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I installed an iceolator . I had two small screws left over where they screws in at a straight line sideways in the back. The back was raised about the height of the iceolator. I am assuming these did not fit because I installed in Iceolator. I went for a spin ( 10 plus minutes) after wards and no CEL.
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05-08-2015, 12:59 PM | #44 |
Drives: 2017 1SS 6spd Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Utah
Posts: 2,869
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Yes- the 2 horizontal bolts in back can be left out after install. Chevy has the intake manifold very well secured from the factory.
Just don't take your Camaro off-road or any "Dukes of Hazard" jumps and you should be fine! It is a good idea to re-torque (18ft/lbs- no more) the 5 top bolts after a few drive cycles to be certain they remain secure (wait til the motor is cool). After that you should be good to go. Last edited by Ventmaster; 05-08-2015 at 01:23 PM. |
05-11-2015, 06:05 PM | #45 |
Drives: 2011 LS V6 (M) & 2019 LS I4 (AT) Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Newbury Park, CA
Posts: 346
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After reading this entire thread while at work... heh... I'm super interested now. I think I want to go the Mace route, and do the plenum spacer as well. But I see Mace carries multiple thicknesses for the insulator. Why would you not just do the thickest? Is there any issue with doing the thickest (35mm i believe) and the plenum spacer? It looks like they include the bolts for everything. Any one know what the difference is? Is there any advantage to doing 12 or 35? I'd like to get as much mid range (cruzing speed) as possible.
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2011 Camaro LS (MT) - Vitesse Throttle Controller / Flowmaster 40 Mufflers / CAI Intake / Apex scoop and washer relocate / Epic Engineering Catch Can / SS Stoptech Brake lines / BMR 1.2" Lowering Springs / IPF tune /Magnaflow X-Pipe / 25mm Mace intake spacer / BBK Long Tube Headers with High Flow Cats
(Current) 2019 Camaro LS I4 - Vitesse Throttle Controller / Mishimoto intake boot and charge pipes / K&N panel / BMR Sway Bars / GFB DV+ / ZZP Larger Throttle Body |
05-29-2015, 03:31 PM | #46 |
Drives: 2011 LS V6 (M) & 2019 LS I4 (AT) Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Newbury Park, CA
Posts: 346
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Still no reply on this?
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2011 Camaro LS (MT) - Vitesse Throttle Controller / Flowmaster 40 Mufflers / CAI Intake / Apex scoop and washer relocate / Epic Engineering Catch Can / SS Stoptech Brake lines / BMR 1.2" Lowering Springs / IPF tune /Magnaflow X-Pipe / 25mm Mace intake spacer / BBK Long Tube Headers with High Flow Cats
(Current) 2019 Camaro LS I4 - Vitesse Throttle Controller / Mishimoto intake boot and charge pipes / K&N panel / BMR Sway Bars / GFB DV+ / ZZP Larger Throttle Body |
05-29-2015, 04:27 PM | #47 |
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Drives: 2015 LFX Auto Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: US of A
Posts: 280
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Plenty of threads on the dyno results....the thicker you go the more top end power you loose, but a slight gain in low end tq. I have the LFX so no iceolator for it.
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05-30-2015, 11:07 AM | #48 | |
Drives: 2017 1SS 6spd Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Utah
Posts: 2,869
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Quote:
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05-04-2017, 04:59 PM | #49 |
Drives: 2011 LS Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Black Diamond, WA
Posts: 61
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Iceolator installation question
I just received my iceolator in the mail and am about to install it but I want to make sure I don't screw anything up.
1. I have a ft/lbs 1/2" drive torque wrench, "blue" RTV sealant (is this the right kind?) and a 13mm wrench. Is this all I need for the install? 2. Is it necessary to remove the fuel pressure in the system to complete this install? The instructions don't say anything about that. 3. The sealant package says to wait an hour before torquing anything down and to wait 24 hours before use. Is this necessary?
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MRT V 1.0, Injen intake, ICE-olator, JVC Stereo, Alpine speakers, 600-w Amp, 10" Subs
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05-04-2017, 06:29 PM | #50 |
Built Not Bought
Drives: 2010 Twin Turbo LFX Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 618
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looks good as far as the rtv you can use the blue or you can use an oem gasket.. well 2 of them actually .. you want the rtv to semi harden before torquing then wait at least a couple of hours till its dry ..and torque in the correct sequence
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2010 Twin Turbo LFX
In Memory of my DAD Gone but never Forgotten 2014 "Built Not Bought!' Sponsors: OverKill Motorsports |
05-04-2017, 07:20 PM | #51 | |
Drives: 2011 LS Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Black Diamond, WA
Posts: 61
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Quote:
One last thing, the directions say to disconnect an electrical harness near the power brake boost hose fitting but the picture is so bad that I can't tell where that is.
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MRT V 1.0, Injen intake, ICE-olator, JVC Stereo, Alpine speakers, 600-w Amp, 10" Subs
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05-04-2017, 07:29 PM | #52 |
Built Not Bought
Drives: 2010 Twin Turbo LFX Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 618
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i think you mean the ABS not the brake booster and that would be the evap solenoid which gets disconnected..and yes put a small bead on the manifold and let it compress then once its semi hard you can torque down in correct sequence
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2010 Twin Turbo LFX
In Memory of my DAD Gone but never Forgotten 2014 "Built Not Bought!' Sponsors: OverKill Motorsports |
05-04-2017, 08:13 PM | #53 |
Drives: 2011 LS Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Black Diamond, WA
Posts: 61
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Much appreciated
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MRT V 1.0, Injen intake, ICE-olator, JVC Stereo, Alpine speakers, 600-w Amp, 10" Subs
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