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Old 01-11-2017, 08:30 PM   #85
vince.cuevas
 
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Yea that seems to be the case just seeing what others are doing... yea looks like I'm going to be needing caliper bolts to... damn it Chevy...lol
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Old 01-11-2017, 09:20 PM   #86
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Originally Posted by 2012LS3VERT View Post
I remember you asking about them, I'll post up in a new thread soon with some install pics now that I have the caster washers in hand.
Is that red insert made of delrin? I have Granatelli rear toe arms that have delrin and the have been on my car for 2 years and like 40K miles. That is a very good Idea and they would last longer than the Pfadt stuff for sure. I already have funds on hand so let me know.
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Old 01-11-2017, 10:17 PM   #87
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Originally Posted by vince.cuevas View Post
Yea that seems to be the case just seeing what others are doing... yea looks like I'm going to be needing caliper bolts to... damn it Chevy...lol
Ive had the vast majority of my customers who reuse the rear cradle bolts with the torque spec for a standard m14 bolt, which is 165 lb-ft. Several are well above 1000 rwhp, and running either 15 or 17" full slicks and have had the cradle out several times. No sign of failure. If it is a critical component with a true TTY bolt, i.e. the head bolts, then yes, new every time. When I say true TTY, I mean it has a torque-angle spec. Ive been a GM specailist mechanic for almost 20 years now, and have never ever seen nor heard of a basic GM suspension bolt fail that was torqued properly, including the seemingly single-use bolts used on late models.

By all means, change them if you would like. I generally replace the caliper bolts every other pad change on a late model for example. But not a basic cradle bolt.
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Old 01-11-2017, 10:23 PM   #88
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Originally Posted by L99CAMA2011 View Post
Is that red insert made of delrin? I have Granatelli rear toe arms that have delrin and the have been on my car for 2 years and like 40K miles. That is a very good Idea and they would last longer than the Pfadt stuff for sure. I already have funds on hand so let me know.
They are a high durometer poly. These are not an entirely new joint, they have been in use by the same company that makes the balls and cups for us for several years now, only we made some adjustments to fit the Camaro radius rods. We have a smaller version of these joints that use a Delrin-type cup, as the trailing arm and toe rods dont lend themselves to a larger joint, and poly would be too thin. We will be using them in our trailing arms and toe rods, and have had a set in my race car for a couple years now. Both size joints will be rebuildable for about $15 or less per joint if they ever do wear out. Our greasable design will allow the poly spherical joints to last quite a while though.
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Old 01-12-2017, 08:17 PM   #89
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How hard are these to install???
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Old 01-12-2017, 08:20 PM   #90
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Shouldnt be hard. We will likely offer them preinstalled in new radius arms as an option, then it would be super easy. The only real requirement that some may not have access to is a hydraulic press and large snap ring pliers. otherwise, press in, press out.
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Old 01-12-2017, 08:51 PM   #91
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I purchased a set of these solid subframe bushings for a high hp build they are awesome
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Old 01-15-2017, 11:59 AM   #92
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2012LS3VERT View Post
They are a high durometer poly. These are not an entirely new joint, they have been in use by the same company that makes the balls and cups for us for several years now, only we made some adjustments to fit the Camaro radius rods. We have a smaller version of these joints that use a Delrin-type cup, as the trailing arm and toe rods dont lend themselves to a larger joint, and poly would be too thin. We will be using them in our trailing arms and toe rods, and have had a set in my race car for a couple years now. Both size joints will be rebuildable for about $15 or less per joint if they ever do wear out. Our greasable design will allow the poly spherical joints to last quite a while though.
Poly. Hmmmm. What durometer are we looking at bud. I What about dust getting in between the poly and the spherical ball unit. Is this an issue on your racecar? Also how much stiffer does it feel compared to the Z28 arm?
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Old 01-15-2017, 12:07 PM   #93
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95 durometer. Dust getting between isnt an issue, the grease pushes it out. These joints were originally designed for rockcrawlers and mud trucks with 2.5 ton and up axles, durability isnt an issue. The poly cups have grease channels in them. Easily twice as stiff, the Z28 arm is just a standard arm and bushing with a solid plastic insert.
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Old 04-10-2017, 03:42 AM   #94
sixty9fordkiller
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anyone know of a shop in the los angeles area that can install the cradle bushings?
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