Which cradle bushings to use? - Page 2 - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

kevin1106 · 01-17-2011, 10:31 AM

I did bmr cradle and differential. Must say, it's a pretty big job to do. I also bought alot of other stuff from bmr to... Like subframe conntectors, drive shaft safety loop, tunnel brace, springs, toe rods, swing arms, Hendricks axles...Been working on it for a week now. Just about done. Waiting on axles to arrive. :-)

caverman · 01-17-2011, 10:33 AM

Can you not use a regulare 2" whole saw? You have to have an extra long one?

*SSE 4 2SS* · 01-17-2011, 10:44 AM

I saw a build thread where the tool fabbed and used was... It has to be longer than a standard hole saw. I'll see if I can find it real quick...

And I cant wait to feel my car with the new suspension components... I went with the aluminum sub-frame bushings based on a recommendation from Chase at Apex. This was based on my soon to be power though... We are also doing traiing arms, Adjustable toe rods, and the differential bushings...

*SSE 4 2SS* · 01-17-2011, 10:59 AM

Try this, It's the information where a tool was built to remove the diff bushings...

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...le#post2705479

Apex Motorsports · 01-17-2011, 11:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SSE 4 2SS

I saw a build thread where the tool fabbed and used was... It has to be longer than a standard hole saw. I'll see if I can find it real quick...

And I cant wait to feel my car with the new suspension components... I went with the aluminum sub-frame bushings based on a recommendation from Chase at Apex. This was based on my soon to be power though... We are also doing traiing arms, Adjustable toe rods, and the differential bushings...

I can't wait to see this build come together.

caverman · 01-17-2011, 11:36 AM

I'm assuming no need to align the car with just the bushing change?

*SSE 4 2SS* · 01-17-2011, 11:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by caverman

I'm assuming no need to "align the car" with just the bushing change?

Well that depends on the road conditions and how hard you hammer the gas...

Sorry, couldn't pass it up... but,

As far as the "wheel alignment" after installing them, I wouldn't think so just with the bushing change...

I'ld probably ask someone with more knowledge than me...

Good Luck with it and let us know how it goes...

BMR Sales · 01-17-2011, 01:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by caverman

I'm assuming no need to align the car with just the bushing change?

If you are going to do the BMR cradle and differential bushings you wont have to get an alignment. The only time you would need to get an alignment was if you loosened the inner rear lower control arm bolt or the inner toe rod bolt, other wise you are good to go because the rear cradle uses alignment dowels on the chassis of the car to line everything up.

caverman · 01-17-2011, 06:28 PM

So....can you not use a 2" hole saw on the front and go 1/2 through and then come to the back side and do the same?

I just seems a PITA to have to make a part like that for a one time use.

Apex.....is your hole saw a double stacked one that is welded togther? I didn't mention that in the instructions but looking at the pic it looks like it could be a long one.

Merc · 01-17-2011, 07:27 PM

Actually I built the the extra long hole saw to do the the differental bushings. Two of three bushings are only accessable from one side. I had those bushings out in a few minutes with the tool I built. Hate to struggle. Don't care what anybody says, removing the stock bushings suuuuuuuuuuuuuuck. Worse part of the job. I just made it easier for myself.

Merc · 01-17-2011, 07:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by caverman

So....can you not use a 2" hole saw on the front and go 1/2 through and then come to the back side and do the same?

I just seems a PITA to have to make a part like that for a one time use.

Apex.....is your hole saw a double stacked one that is welded togther? I didn't mention that in the instructions but looking at the pic it looks like it could be a long one.

Yes it's a hole sawI made buy cutting two apart them tig welded them together to make one.

caverman · 01-17-2011, 07:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mercuryman96

Two of three bushings are only accessable from one side.

Yes it's a hole I made buy cutting two apart them tig welded them together to make one.

Three??? I thought there were only two bushings for the differential?

I knew you cut two of them to make one but I was wondering if that's what Apex did to take his out as well. His instructions say to us a 2" hole saw but doesn't say anything about getting an extra long one or making one from two.

Merc · 01-17-2011, 08:15 PM

That's what BMR directions say. The bottom line is that a normal hole is not deep enough. So you would have to go as deep as you can with the hole saw. Then hack hack out the center and go again. Not for me. The craddle bushings would be no different if you just drop the craddle. Only accessable from one side unless you remove the whole craddle from underneath the car. Hve a look at my build journal and you will see I speak from experience.

caverman · 01-17-2011, 10:09 PM

Copied in the direct link on your build in case anyone else was intrested.

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...113517&page=10

Do you still need that tool? Feel like selling it?

01-17-2011, 10:33 AM	#16
caverman Drives: '69 SS Convertible Join Date: May 2009 Location: DFW, TX Posts: 7,111	Can you not use a regulare 2" whole saw? You have to have an extra long one? __________________ *-2010 Camaro* 2SS \| M6 \| VR w/White Stripes \| 1 3/4" KOOKS - 3" Magnaflow \| LPE 3.91 gears \| ADM tuned \| Halltech w/ADM Scoop \| Spohn/BMR Trailing Arm/Toe Rod \| BC Coilovers\| Pedders FE4 ZL1 swaybars \| Cradle/Diff/Radius Rod bushings \| VMax TB \| Morimoto Projectors \| MGW shifter \| Red Calipers Build Journal

01-17-2011, 10:44 AM	#17
SSE 4 2SS Boosted Moderator Drives: Bone Stock LS3 Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Marion Tx Posts: 15,495	I saw a build thread where the tool fabbed and used was... It has to be longer than a standard hole saw. I'll see if I can find it real quick... And I cant wait to feel my car with the new suspension components... I went with the aluminum sub-frame bushings based on a recommendation from Chase at Apex. This was based on my soon to be power though... We are also doing traiing arms, Adjustable toe rods, and the differential bushings... __________________ If the car feels like it is on rails, you are probably driving too slow. -Ross Bentley Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall. Torque is how far you take the wall with you. “If everything seems under control, you're just not going fast enough.” Mario Andretti If you can turn, you ain't going fast enough...

01-17-2011, 10:59 AM	#18
SSE 4 2SS Boosted Moderator Drives: Bone Stock LS3 Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Marion Tx Posts: 15,495	Try this, It's the information where a tool was built to remove the diff bushings... http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...le#post2705479 __________________ If the car feels like it is on rails, you are probably driving too slow. -Ross Bentley Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall. Torque is how far you take the wall with you. “If everything seems under control, you're just not going fast enough.” Mario Andretti If you can turn, you ain't going fast enough...

01-17-2011, 11:36 AM	#20
caverman Drives: '69 SS Convertible Join Date: May 2009 Location: DFW, TX Posts: 7,111	I'm assuming no need to align the car with just the bushing change? __________________ *-2010 Camaro* 2SS \| M6 \| VR w/White Stripes \| 1 3/4" KOOKS - 3" Magnaflow \| LPE 3.91 gears \| ADM tuned \| Halltech w/ADM Scoop \| Spohn/BMR Trailing Arm/Toe Rod \| BC Coilovers\| Pedders FE4 ZL1 swaybars \| Cradle/Diff/Radius Rod bushings \| VMax TB \| Morimoto Projectors \| MGW shifter \| Red Calipers Build Journal

01-17-2011, 06:28 PM	#23
caverman Drives: '69 SS Convertible Join Date: May 2009 Location: DFW, TX Posts: 7,111	So....can you not use a 2" hole saw on the front and go 1/2 through and then come to the back side and do the same? I just seems a PITA to have to make a part like that for a one time use. Apex.....is your hole saw a double stacked one that is welded togther? I didn't mention that in the instructions but looking at the pic it looks like it could be a long one. __________________ *-2010 Camaro* 2SS \| M6 \| VR w/White Stripes \| 1 3/4" KOOKS - 3" Magnaflow \| LPE 3.91 gears \| ADM tuned \| Halltech w/ADM Scoop \| Spohn/BMR Trailing Arm/Toe Rod \| BC Coilovers\| Pedders FE4 ZL1 swaybars \| Cradle/Diff/Radius Rod bushings \| VMax TB \| Morimoto Projectors \| MGW shifter \| Red Calipers Build Journal Last edited by caverman; 01-17-2011 at 06:44 PM.

01-17-2011, 10:31 AM	#15
kevin1106 Drives: 2015 ZO6 3LZ Stage 2 A8 Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: La plata MD Posts: 2,299 View My Garage	I did bmr cradle and differential. Must say, it's a pretty big job to do. I also bought alot of other stuff from bmr to... Like subframe conntectors, drive shaft safety loop, tunnel brace, springs, toe rods, swing arms, Hendricks axles...Been working on it for a week now. Just about done. Waiting on axles to arrive. :-)

01-17-2011, 07:27 PM	#24
Merc In The Circle Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SSRS IOM M6 Join Date: May 2009 Location: Abbotsford BC Canada Posts: 11,291	Actually I built the the extra long hole saw to do the the differental bushings. Two of three bushings are only accessable from one side. I had those bushings out in a few minutes with the tool I built. Hate to struggle. Don't care what anybody says, removing the stock bushings suuuuuuuuuuuuuuck. Worse part of the job. I just made it easier for myself. __________________ My Build Thread

01-17-2011, 08:15 PM	#27
Merc In The Circle Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SSRS IOM M6 Join Date: May 2009 Location: Abbotsford BC Canada Posts: 11,291	That's what BMR directions say. The bottom line is that a normal hole is not deep enough. So you would have to go as deep as you can with the hole saw. Then hack hack out the center and go again. Not for me. The craddle bushings would be no different if you just drop the craddle. Only accessable from one side unless you remove the whole craddle from underneath the car. Hve a look at my build journal and you will see I speak from experience. __________________ My Build Thread

01-17-2011, 10:09 PM	#28
caverman Drives: '69 SS Convertible Join Date: May 2009 Location: DFW, TX Posts: 7,111	Copied in the direct link on your build in case anyone else was intrested. http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...113517&page=10 Do you still need that tool? Feel like selling it? __________________ *-2010 Camaro* 2SS \| M6 \| VR w/White Stripes \| 1 3/4" KOOKS - 3" Magnaflow \| LPE 3.91 gears \| ADM tuned \| Halltech w/ADM Scoop \| Spohn/BMR Trailing Arm/Toe Rod \| BC Coilovers\| Pedders FE4 ZL1 swaybars \| Cradle/Diff/Radius Rod bushings \| VMax TB \| Morimoto Projectors \| MGW shifter \| Red Calipers Build Journal

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