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Old 11-30-2016, 11:50 AM   #15
2012LS3VERT

 
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To all those PMing me based on this thread, thank you! Just thought I'd post a progress picture of the production so that you can rest easy knowing they are on the way soon!
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Old 11-30-2016, 12:03 PM   #16
BFASTNOTLAST

 
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Bump for a great product! Went solid Pegasus and won't go back!
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Old 11-30-2016, 01:13 PM   #17
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Liking what I'm seeing. Was just looking at the camber plates over at JDP and having won a gift certificate from there I may do those first. Then step up and get the cradle bushings. All I have to figure out is the budget for next season.
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Old 11-30-2016, 02:33 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2012LS3VERT View Post
To all those PMing me based on this thread, thank you! Just thought I'd post a progress picture of the production so that you can rest easy knowing they are on the way soon!
Awesome!! ive got the cradle out. factory bushings are a joke. you can move the center section around with one finger. weakest part ive seen on this car and thats saying a lot.
i got the cradle bushings, the offset diff bushings, and the caster/camber plates. these parts are gonna help me join the nation.
DOMINATION!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old 11-30-2016, 05:46 PM   #19
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I hope I have money saved in Jan to get a set.
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Old 11-30-2016, 07:19 PM   #20
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Oh yeah. Let us know when they're ready to go.
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Old 12-01-2016, 09:25 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dentnshell View Post
Installed my Solid Subframe Bushings from Pegasus today.

Install was just under 3 hours. Just my wife and I in the garage. Put the car on jack stands and used 2 - jacks and the heat method.
Removed the rear sway bar, and the lower shock bolt. I do have an impact which made the install so much easier than I had feared. I really thought this install was going to be a big deal. It was not, it was much easier than the 1" drop springs. I am sure if I had to cut them out, I would have felt differently.

I did not drop the exhaust "NPP" I did however loosen up one side at a time in order to drop the subframe enough to get a socket on top of the rear subframe. I was only able to initially get a pry bar on top of the rear bushings. I ended up taking the bolts out of both the front and rear of one side to gain enough clearance to install the bushings.

FWIW only one bushing "Popped" out like the videos show... The rest slowly squeezed out as they melted. I only applied heat to the outside of the bushing just like the videos, but I did try to heat as much of the exposed metal on that one side.

The inserts are not drop in, I would say they are press in with the jack and with the impact upon re-install. This only makes sense, as you certainly don't want any slop in the bushing. The bushings appear to be of great quality the look great and feel even more "refined" than I was anticipating. The fit and finish is perfect!

The NVH increase is minimal if nothing at all. The car launches much truer with less sideways lunging. It is dead on now ( Installed the ZL1 differential last weekend, and wanted to put a few miles on that mod boefore the subframe mounts, for comparisons sake.) The performance increase is also noticeable when going over seams in the road. Before the car had a tendency to skip sideways / wiggle when going over a perpendicular seam in the road... Difficult to describe. I was unable to get into get an alignment yet (scheduled for tomorrow.) I figure it is due after the new rear end and bushings.

In short - Don't be afraid of this mod, it is not difficult and, IMO, definitely worth it at any power level! There are other brands available, but none of those could touch the price of the Pegasus mounts. So glad I went with these instead of inserts!

~Denton
I believe I know what you are talking about the car skipping sideways. Mine does that going through small bumps on the road and goes sideways when I lose traction even from a roll. I'm hoping these will fix that. I have a 2010 l99 and from what I've read the 2010 subframe bushings are the ones that sucks big time
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Old 12-01-2016, 10:40 AM   #22
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Can you help me out with the jacking points ? I don't want to put my stands on the pinch rails
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Old 12-01-2016, 11:18 AM   #23
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Google "Camaro Jacking Points" and you'll find some pics, but basically up front the jack stands can go under the cross member (jack can go right in the middle to lift the whole front of the car) and in the rear the jack stands can go under the rear-most subframe mounts or beside the pitch rails (the pinch rail is notched where you'd put the jack stand, and you can put it right beside that with a piece of wood on the stand) and you can use the front-most subframe mounts to lift the car.
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Old 12-01-2016, 01:47 PM   #24
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If I'm removing the subframe mounts I can't really use them for jacking... my pinch rails are kinda ****ed up from drift tax, where can I put jack stands?

Last edited by Soybeanrice; 12-01-2016 at 02:13 PM.
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Old 12-01-2016, 01:59 PM   #25
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I put mine in front of the rear tire . Right inside the lip of the metal I would guess. You need to look under there to see what I'm talking about
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Old 12-01-2016, 02:11 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by camarosspower View Post
I put mine in front of the rear tire . Right inside the lip of the metal I would guess. You need to look under there to see what I'm talking about
You put the jack stands there correct?

And I have an idea of what you're talking about, but it's a flat spot so I wasn't too sure if it was usable.
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Old 12-01-2016, 04:10 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by camarosspower View Post
I believe I know what you are talking about the car skipping sideways. Mine does that going through small bumps on the road and goes sideways when I lose traction even from a roll. I'm hoping these will fix that. I have a 2010 l99 and from what I've read the 2010 subframe bushings are the ones that sucks big time
Part of the sidways traction issues is due to the limited slip... If one side looses traction first or has more weight planted on it then you get a tire spine and a sideways lunge. I did a ZL1 Differential and Axles one weekend... the next weekend I did subframe busings.

The busing seemed to take care of the bumps way better... of course the limited slip in the ZL1 differential has a much tighter clutch pack. Depending on the power level of you car a posi-mod or Tru-Track may be in order!
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Old 12-01-2016, 04:12 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by camarosspower View Post
I put mine in front of the rear tire . Right inside the lip of the metal I would guess. You need to look under there to see what I'm talking about
I still used the mounts and or arms for a jack lift point (I have some $1.99 Amazon Hockey pucks for my Jacks.) This allowed me a good spot to put the jack stands on the flat part... There is a slot in the rear that was perfect for one edge / nipple on my jack stand.
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Mods: LSA Conversion 2.5" Upper Pulley, 65# injectors, GPI SS1 Cam, SP Long Tubes, ADM Race Scoop & CAI, NPP exhaust (DIY control), BMR 1" lowering springs, ZL1 Rear Differential / Axles, CF Side Strip / Hood Spear, Tint - Windows / Tails / Sidemarkers, Splash Guards, ADM Boost Gauge, ABL Dashkit, '68 Script Badges, ACS T4 Splitter, ZL1 Rockers from Gary's, Z28 Spoiler, Carbon Fiber Hood Vent, Summer - MRR FS01 Satin Black (10" Front 11" Rear) Winter, pictured-Drag DR 64's Satin Black (9" Front-10" Rear.)
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