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Old 05-26-2020, 11:26 AM   #15
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I have one of the 32mm Pedders Bars out back. That might be part of why I have zero issues.

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Im also running the Pedders 32ml swaybar.
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Old 05-26-2020, 11:29 AM   #16
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I'm reaching here. But how wide are your tires and how low are you? I had a problem with the inside of my tires (315's) hitting the wheel well and causing me to go left and right. As if the rear was steering. I had all the suspension mods that are in my sig below. I didn't realize how close the tire was to the wheel well liner. I couldn't figure it out until I pulled the wheel off. There were signs of the tires rubbing the plastic liner. I cut out part of the liner and rasied the car slightly. That fixed my problem.
I'm as low as I can go with the coil-overs and currently running 305's on the rear. There is no rubbage but I am definitely appreciating all the input here.!
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Old 05-26-2020, 11:48 AM   #17
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I'm just thinking out loud here but if you read the description of this it might be something to consider here.

http://m.bmrsuspension.com/?page=pro...productid=1171

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Old 05-26-2020, 11:50 AM   #18
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I think because you're at the upper end of the power spectrum (you're literally double where my car is at) you're seeing parts do weird shit most of us never will.

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Old 05-26-2020, 05:41 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by Firefighter View Post
I'm just thinking out loud here but if you read the description of this it might be something to consider here.

http://m.bmrsuspension.com/?page=pro...productid=1171

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Appreciate your input Firefighter. I live in northern BC, so my options for techy, knowledgable mechanics is pretty slim. I have found that in most cases, I do the research and then go to the mechanic of my choice and have him put the parts in. So far, this method has not worked in my favor.
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Old 05-26-2020, 10:48 PM   #20
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The way I'm thinking is if you're putting down almost 900HP you might need to go to solid everything. Wherever you can go delving, spherical, aluminum bushes etc. You're taxing the ever living shit out of all your bushings. They're going to flex. I'm surprised you're not snapping axles like crazy.

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Old 05-27-2020, 09:49 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by Firefighter View Post
The way I'm thinking is if you're putting down almost 900HP you might need to go to solid everything. Wherever you can go delving, spherical, aluminum bushes etc. You're taxing the ever living shit out of all your bushings. They're going to flex. I'm surprised you're not snapping axles like crazy.

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The drivetrain was upgraded to ZL! diff, and I put in 1000hp axles. That was after destroying the stock diff, and trans. Gotta pay if you wanna play!!

I never snapped an axle (touch wood). My buddies in SS Camaros did and they upgraded to the 1LE axles.
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Old 05-27-2020, 10:45 AM   #22
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The drivetrain was upgraded to ZL! diff, and I put in 1000hp axles. That was after destroying the stock diff, and trans. Gotta pay if you wanna play!!



I never snapped an axle (touch wood). My buddies in SS Camaros did and they upgraded to the 1LE axles.
Were you running drag radials when you broke rear end and trans?

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Old 05-27-2020, 10:47 AM   #23
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Then really all you have left is all the bushings and stuff. You need to go solid everything.

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Old 05-27-2020, 10:55 AM   #24
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Were you running drag radials when you broke rear end and trans?

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No, but I was at the track and had 700rwhp back then. I launched and the rear end just disintegrated. the trans had started shifting poorly and I pulled it and had it rebuilt. It was in bad shape inside.

I don't drag race anymore. Strictly Hwy running and the odd road course day. I just love this car, guaranteed to bring me lots of smiles. I'm afraid that I am going to have to go the route that Firefighter is suggesting and go solid on everything in the rear cradle.
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Old 05-27-2020, 02:57 PM   #25
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What are your Alignment Numbers?
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Old 05-28-2020, 11:27 AM   #26
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What are your Alignment Numbers?
Hopefully, I have attached the alignment specs file properly.
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File Type: pdf Alignment specs.pdf (407.8 KB, 79 views)
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Old 05-29-2020, 07:45 PM   #27
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SOLVED

Solved.

Thanks to BMRSales for going over alignment numbers with me.
So a good alignment has Caster, camber, and toe (and other stuff but these ones really matter). I had a track carving alignment that I have always run and it has worked well but as BMR showed me. My toe was going the wrong way for what I needed to be done. This prompted a visit today to my alignment guy. When the car was put on the rack and the numbers came up...well there was a surprise.
The car issue was it wanted to go hard left when I put the pedal to the metal and I guess all that power can really move things around underneath because my left toe was not in line with the rest of the wheels...it was a mile out!! The torque had moved the centric ring throwing the left rear right out.
So seeing as I was there and making a change anyway, I plugged in BMRSales numbers that he gave me and viola, the car goes straight. If we ever get back to racing Ill have my racing alignment done, but for now, it is nice to just go straight when I put the hammer down.

Thanks to everyone that responded.
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Old 05-29-2020, 11:51 PM   #28
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Nice that was the cheapest fix you had on the table. I'm also pleased the solution came from some fellow FL boys.

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