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Old 01-18-2015, 09:09 PM   #15
CamaroDreams07


 
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Originally Posted by scandata View Post
I have a bottle of M105 in my car cabinet. I haven't tried out yet, so I guess this will be as good a time as any.

I'll start out polishing by hand, then move up to the DA (as you guessed, it's a PC-XP) if that doesn't work. I also have a bottle of M205 in the arsenal if I need to step it up a notch. I'll post before and after pics if I get worthwhile results.
You have your 105 and 205 mixed up.
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Old 01-18-2015, 10:25 PM   #16
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You have your 105 and 205 mixed up.
+1

The 205 is less abrasive. If you cannot remove it after using 205 on the DA go to 105. If you still can't remove it, it will need to be wetsanded, it's not hard to do.



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Old 01-19-2015, 07:44 AM   #17
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Would that take it out (remove it), or just fill it in/cover it up? I have a bottle of Adam's Brilliant Glaze, but as far as I know, it's not abrasive at all.
From what i can tell based on the pics, that scratch isnt very deep in the clear coat, prob surface at most... if you can run your finger nail over it without it catching too bad then the seal glaze will prob buff that right off.

If you can actually feel it pretty well with your nail, hit it with some Presta Cutting Cream (carefully) then the seal glaze to finish it of.

Like someone said above always start with the least aggressive path and def do it by hand, not with a buffing wheel.

As for the Adams Brilliant Glaze you have, I have never used that brand so I can't comment on its performance, but based of what i see in this ( http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=228363 )
thread it works well
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Old 01-19-2015, 10:08 AM   #18
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From what i can tell based on the pics, that scratch isnt very deep in the clear coat, prob surface at most... if you can run your finger nail over it without it catching too bad then the seal glaze will prob buff that right off.

If you can actually feel it pretty well with your nail, hit it with some Presta Cutting Cream (carefully) then the seal glaze to finish it of.

Like someone said above always start with the least aggressive path and def do it by hand, not with a buffing wheel.

As for the Adams Brilliant Glaze you have, I have never used that brand so I can't comment on its performance, but based of what i see in this ( http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=228363 )
thread it works well
Sealants and glazes are not abrasives that buff anything right off..
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Old 01-19-2015, 12:06 PM   #19
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Sealants and glazes are not abrasives that buff anything right off..
Just tried to give the guy the least aggressive option first.
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Old 01-19-2015, 01:07 PM   #20
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Just tried to give the guy the least aggressive option first.
But that isn't even an option when it comes to polishing... A sealant is for protection and a glaze is for covering..
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Old 01-19-2015, 02:52 PM   #21
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But that isn't even an option when it comes to polishing... A sealant is for protection and a glaze is for covering..
This is the stuff I've used...

"visually eliminates fine scratches and swirls"

http://www.meguiars.com/en/professio...alant-20-16oz/

the scratch looks pretty shallow in the pics, hence the less aggressive approach.
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Old 01-19-2015, 02:59 PM   #22
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This is the stuff I've used...

"visually eliminates fine scratches and swirls"

http://www.meguiars.com/en/professio...alant-20-16oz/

the scratch looks pretty shallow in the pics, hence the less aggressive approach.
That's a glaze and sealant combo, which is filling in imperfections, hence the "visually eliminates". After the glaze wears off in a week the scratch will be back, which I doubt that would completely fill this scratch to begin with.

OP is looking for a permanent solution, which is achieved with polishing with a DA polisher.
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Old 01-19-2015, 03:45 PM   #23
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That's a glaze and sealant combo, which is filling in imperfections, hence the "visually eliminates". After the glaze wears off in a week the scratch will be back, which I doubt that would completely fill this scratch to begin with.

OP is looking for a permanent solution, which is achieved with polishing with a DA polisher.
He doesn't need a D/A for that. By hand will remove the least amount of Clear and give him the most control in that area.
Unless he tapes off the weather strip a D/A will cause a mess. I doubt he has a small D/A with a 1" or 2" BP & pad.
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Old 01-19-2015, 04:28 PM   #24
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He doesn't need a D/A for that. By hand will remove the least amount of Clear and give him the most control in that area.
Unless he tapes off the weather strip a D/A will cause a mess. I doubt he has a small D/A with a 1" or 2" BP & pad.
D/A will make quick work of it (me and you both know that DA polishing removes next to none clear anyway), no need for that small of a pad. You can use a 4in pad.
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Old 01-19-2015, 04:48 PM   #25
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D/A will make quick work of it (me and you both know that DA polishing removes next to none clear anyway), no need for that small of a pad. You can use a 4in pad.
+1. You're less likely do do damage with a DA given the evenness of the pressure you apply. By hand leads to your fingertips applying more pressure in certain spots.
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Old 01-19-2015, 04:54 PM   #26
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D/A will make quick work of it (me and you both know that DA polishing removes next to none clear anyway), no need for that small of a pad. You can use a 4in pad.
+2

IMO microfiber pads cut better than foam. Buff/Shine 4" pads are excellent.
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Old 01-19-2015, 06:24 PM   #27
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D/A will make quick work of it (me and you both know that DA polishing removes next to none clear anyway), no need for that small of a pad. You can use a 4in pad.
In a skilled operators hand, yes I agree.

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+1. You're less likely do do damage with a DA given the evenness of the pressure you apply. By hand leads to your fingertips applying more pressure in certain spots.
This I do not agree with, sorry. If you leave the paint uneven after polishing this small paint defect... take it to a pro, period. Use the proper applicator by hand and that will be removed in less than 5 mins. You couldn't even tape off the area and plug in the D/A in twice that amount of time.

I'll finish with this statement and it is not directed at anyone particular or in this thread but more to those reading this that have PM'd me at some point.
I get a lot of people PMing me for Detailing advice as most know that I have over 23 years in the business. They also ask why I don't post more in here with advice?
Well, It's because of threads like this. I try to give simple effective advice and every one else has a "better idea". If your methods work for you, so be it. I honestly don't have time to argue which is the best way.

My work and my name in the Detailing industry are proof positive I know what I am giving advice on.

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Old 01-19-2015, 06:26 PM   #28
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When someone disagrees with you it's a 'better idea.' When it's your idea, it's proof positive. Lol.

Same reason I don't post much publicly anymore either.
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