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Old 08-29-2011, 02:16 AM   #1
The 2010 Sin
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M6 to A6 swap.. Costs and concerns?

Looking to find the cost to do a transmission swap on my M6 to an auto. Love my build and my car just want to remove the hassle of shifting gears since I'm daily driving in stop and go traffic several miles each way. Shifting gets really old.

Thoughts?!
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Old 08-29-2011, 04:57 AM   #2
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sorry but i do not think i will ever get tired of driving stick. its not hard to do in traffic. just stay in first and idle, do not ride the guys bumper, and do not move up to where you have to shift gears.

in other words it is cheaper to make driving changes then to change your tranny.

sorry i have no clue on costs, just grabbed my attention and i had to post. either way good luck.
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Old 08-29-2011, 05:00 AM   #3
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I'd be interested in the same thing. Cost of changing from m6 to a6. My reason is a little different. More for dragging the 1/4. Any shop have an idea of the expense?
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Old 08-29-2011, 07:20 AM   #4
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depends on tranny..if you are building something that needs to be able to handle 600rwhp then the 4l80e is what you need...rpm built 4l80e tranny with convertor, a6 controller, tranny cooler, tranny brace approx 6k installed... i,m sure you could do this for3-4k if your looking for a more stock approach..
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Old 08-29-2011, 07:36 AM   #5
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And you have had this done to your car? Im at 607 now and yea Im thinking either sell the car and buy another auto, but if Im looking at 6 gs to put a built trans in complete with stall. I will consider it for sure.
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Old 08-29-2011, 10:13 AM   #6
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I'm either gonna do the swap or buy an ISF like my gf has. Shevyman, you must not have a built motor with a rowdy cam etc. Different ball game, you can't just idle out unless you wanna be surged, and no you can't tune it out it's the cam size can't get around it. Gonna keep the car N/A so the stock approach would be a better idea for me. Good 3800 stall and a decent tune. At close to 500 rear now don't track the car either so don't need a monster trans.
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Old 08-29-2011, 04:51 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by The 2010 Sin View Post
I'm either gonna do the swap or buy an ISF like my gf has. Shevyman, you must not have a built motor with a rowdy cam etc. Different ball game, you can't just idle out unless you wanna be surged, and no you can't tune it out it's the cam size can't get around it. Gonna keep the car N/A so the stock approach would be a better idea for me. Good 3800 stall and a decent tune. At close to 500 rear now don't track the car either so don't need a monster trans.
you know i forgot it said with (my build) i was not thinking about major engine mods. sorry but thank you for responding. now it makes more sense plus you are right i never have had a car with an aggressive cam.
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Old 08-29-2011, 07:42 PM   #8
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And you have had this done to your car? Im at 607 now and yea Im thinking either sell the car and buy another auto, but if Im looking at 6 gs to put a built trans in complete with stall. I will consider it for sure.
process, picking up my lsx427 this week or next...have been researching the web for good tranny guys...sent a email to tj @rpm, and email back from jakes..here is qoute...i know its harder to do the a6 to a4...easier to do m6 to a4 due to computer stuff.so 6k should be possible.. if anyone talks to jakes, tell him mike sent you from camaro5..to get this pricing..... .Mike,

I wanted to take the time to thank you for the interest in our
company and our product. We are prepared to offer you a Stg. 2.5
4l80e, 9.5 billet converter, stand alone controller and a 1350 yolk.
As far as the rest of the kit; we do not have enough experience with
the 2010 in house intall; but we do know it will fit. All of our
transmissions are built to exact vehicle specifications, they receive
new steels, high energy frictions, new seals, gaskets, bushing, and
Jake's very own separator plate and a free trans brake. As far as the
2.5 it will also include a billet input shaft, billet forward hub,
good for approximately 900-1000 flywheel hp/tq in a typical car, it
will live at higher power but we would prefer a stg.3 upgrade at that
point. Your converter will be built to your specific needs as well,
set to the stall of your desire. I also wanted to let you know all of our transmissions are dyno
tested and come with a 1yr no hassle warranty. We appreciate you
looking out for us on c5 and more business is always better...lol. If
you have any questions please feel free to call us @ 940-458-5564
M-Thu 8am to 7pm. Once again thank you, and hope to hear from you
soon. Hope we can help with all your needs.

Sincerley,
Mike
Jake's Performance

Stg. 2.5= $2750
9.5 billet con=$800
Optishift=$550
Shipping=$150
Total= $4250
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Old 08-29-2011, 08:25 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The 2010 Sin View Post
Looking to find the cost to do a transmission swap on my M6 to an auto. Love my build and my car just want to remove the hassle of shifting gears since I'm daily driving in stop and go traffic several miles each way. Shifting gets really old.

Thoughts?!
I just got my RPM 4l80e today and will be installing this week at Cincy Speed. I got the level 5 trans with a trans brake, trans cooler, deep pan, trans controller, billet coan HD converter, SFI flexplate and custom shifter and this cost $7500 for parts alone and no install labor. You can spend as much as you want but in my case I have a very extreme build and want max track performance so this is what we came up with.
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Old 08-29-2011, 09:36 PM   #10
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I just got my RPM 4l80e today and will be installing this week at Cincy Speed. I got the level 5 trans with a trans brake, trans cooler, deep pan, trans controller, billet coan HD converter, SFI flexplate and custom shifter and this cost $7500 for parts alone and no install labor. You can spend as much as you want but in my case I have a very extreme build and want max track performance so this is what we came up with.
did you use tj@ rpm..and what stall did you go with? really interested on seeing how it works out, keep me in mind...like to build similar , but want decent drivability..i assume you are going from m6? thanks jrp22..any idea when install..always nice when someone goes 1st..lol..then maybe i can learn something from you..i believe you also need a tranny crossmember for the a4..any install notes cincy can log for you would be helpful..forgot to ask, what gears are you gonna run in your rear?
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Old 08-29-2011, 09:49 PM   #11
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did you use tj@ rpm..and what stall did you go with? really interested on seeing how it works out, keep me in mind...like to build similar , but want decent drivability..i assume you are going from m6? thanks jrp22..any idea when install..always nice when someone goes 1st..lol..then maybe i can learn something from you..i believe you also need a tranny crossmember for the a4..any install notes cincy can log for you would be helpful..
Yes I went from M6 to A4 as well and Cincy Speed is starting install tomorrow and will take pics thru the process that you can follow and they are always to help anyone if you have questions for them. I built my car with inentions of driving it around town, on road trips and to the track so I wanted to keep driveability as well but go to the track and run single digits and cruise back home with the windows down. Here is a link to my build for you to follow if you like as Craig is good at documenting everything along the way. http://www.facebook.com/#!/media/set...ype=1:thumbup:
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Old 08-29-2011, 09:53 PM   #12
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thanks i will hit your build, and any useful info you may come up with , i would be more then happy to hear..ex, to much stall, lower gears, etc
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Old 08-29-2011, 09:56 PM   #13
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i just saw that you are using the cf gforce from pst, did you see where mine unbonded and that supposedly the bond agent is not good above 400f per mark @ pst, i did heat check today after driving hgwy for 30 minutes and temps were 515 on dshaft at cv.i wa using the aluminum, wonder if the cf cuts down the heat???
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Old 08-29-2011, 10:03 PM   #14
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i just saw that you are using the cf gforce from pst, did you see where mine unbonded and that supposedly the bond agent is not good above 400f per mark @ pst, i did heat check today after driving hgwy for 30 minutes and temps were 515 on dshaft at cv.i wa using the aluminum, wonder if the cf cuts down the heat???
Once you go to the A6 you have to get a new DS anyways. I decided to go with the aluminum DS with the auto as they have been flawless.
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