06-19-2018, 02:56 PM | #15 |
Drives: 2SS/RS Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Western North Carolina
Posts: 7,176
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Keep in mind most likely any paint you buy won't be a 100% match. Your car is 8 years old. It's had 8 years worth of sun exposure which has caused the paint to fade some. Even the best paint you buy now will match what the paint looked like 8 years ago.
Not to mention you're dealing with a metallic paint and that adds a whole new headache to the process. |
06-19-2018, 03:25 PM | #16 | |
Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS/RS ABM 6M Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Kansas
Posts: 617
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I'm just looking for some good brands so I don't have to worry about issues with it down the road. I am looking to get a heritage grille too, and at least it's paint would match the ground effects if I do it all at once.
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2010 ABM 2SS/RS LS3 6 Speed -- Rotofab CAI | Speed Engineering 1 7/8" Longtubes w/ cat Delete | Magnaflow competition catback | TSP 231/246 cam| TSP/PAC .660" Spring Kit | TSP CNC Ported Heads | Bo White PTB | GPI Ported/RM Intake | 3.91's | BC Catch Can | MGW Shifter | BMR 1" Drop Springs | BMR Trailing arms/Toe Rods/Rear UCA Bushings | Pegasus Subframe Mounts
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06-19-2018, 03:53 PM | #17 |
Drives: 2011 Vistory Red 1LS Join Date: May 2018
Location: Missouri
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Like I stated previously, I would go with a slightly different shade of blue as a contrast. It would look good and you wont have to stress about the color matching 100%.
Personally, I would not paint the grill the same color, but that's me.
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06-19-2018, 03:57 PM | #18 |
Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS/RS ABM 6M Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Kansas
Posts: 617
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I appreciate the input. But the entire point of this is to not have 2 different colors between the body and the ground effects. I saw another ABM get effects painted recently and his turned out good. Not 100% match but damn close. Not many would notice.
And I don't know why I would get the heritage grille and do anything but the blue to match. The whole reason I like them is because they appear to make the grille in the middle smaller and the rest blend into the car. Different strokes, I guess
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2010 ABM 2SS/RS LS3 6 Speed -- Rotofab CAI | Speed Engineering 1 7/8" Longtubes w/ cat Delete | Magnaflow competition catback | TSP 231/246 cam| TSP/PAC .660" Spring Kit | TSP CNC Ported Heads | Bo White PTB | GPI Ported/RM Intake | 3.91's | BC Catch Can | MGW Shifter | BMR 1" Drop Springs | BMR Trailing arms/Toe Rods/Rear UCA Bushings | Pegasus Subframe Mounts
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06-19-2018, 04:48 PM | #19 | |
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Do realize there can be up to 7-8 variations of a particular color. Just because you know the color code, doesn't mean it's going to "match". It seems like you still want the easy way out. So, I guess your parts won't be a perfect match. That's okay though. Someone like me will be able to tell, but maybe you won't. Good luck! |
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06-19-2018, 05:19 PM | #20 |
Drives: 14ss Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: metrpolis il
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I'm pretty picky on paint matching. It drives me crazy when you see a car going down the road and you can see halfway down the door where they blended it. I've painted several cars, but like your dad they've been complete paint jobs so wasn't trying to match. I bought my car needing a hood and bumper from a deer. It's ashen gray and I was pretty terrified the paint wasn't going to match. I used dupont chromabase, or cromax I guess its called now. It matched perfect. I had a buddy that works at a body shop guide me with blending the tops of the fenders and front edge just to be on the safe side, but it really turned out great. I had practiced on the old hood just spraying a corner and I couldn't believe how well it matched. I have painted whole cars with nason before and they turned out good, but the paint supply said if was trying to match use the cromax, he showed me the nason had maybe 5or6 pigments, and the cromax had 9or10. I don't really think the flex agent is required anymore with paints, I havn't used them on anything I've done, and buddy said they don't at the shop either.
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06-19-2018, 06:04 PM | #21 | |
Big Crow
Drives: '13 ZL1 Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: California
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Last edited by silversleeper; 06-19-2018 at 06:19 PM. |
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06-19-2018, 06:19 PM | #22 | |
Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS/RS ABM 6M Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Kansas
Posts: 617
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So I want to put in the effort to learn a new skill and try doing this (mostly) by myself, asking questions so that I can get the best results...and that's the EASY way out? Right.. ok, maybe I came to the wrong place. I would have assumed the easy way was dropping it off at the body shop and writing a check. I thought one could order good paints that would be a pretty close match to factory.
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2010 ABM 2SS/RS LS3 6 Speed -- Rotofab CAI | Speed Engineering 1 7/8" Longtubes w/ cat Delete | Magnaflow competition catback | TSP 231/246 cam| TSP/PAC .660" Spring Kit | TSP CNC Ported Heads | Bo White PTB | GPI Ported/RM Intake | 3.91's | BC Catch Can | MGW Shifter | BMR 1" Drop Springs | BMR Trailing arms/Toe Rods/Rear UCA Bushings | Pegasus Subframe Mounts
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06-19-2018, 06:40 PM | #23 |
Big Crow
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Location: California
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^ You can go to the autoparts store or walmart and get duplicolor cans which would match ok if you get your color code, for separate parts and not stand out so much. I used it on my heritage grill. As people stated don't expect a perfect match but it might be close enough for you too.
I thought I was getting something with a more perfect match and higher quality when I went with the automotivetouchup.com brand but you see how that turned out for me on two cars I tried it on. Last edited by silversleeper; 06-20-2018 at 01:42 AM. |
06-19-2018, 08:57 PM | #24 | |
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Plastic will NEVER match perfectly with a car. You think it does? Go to the any dealership of your choice and look at the difference between plastic and panels painted the same color on new cars. And you’re going to try matching it on a 10yr old car? Good luck. Just know it won’t match perfectly. You’ll notice a difference.and yes. You need a flexible plastic agent in sealer or paint. I forget it’s been awhile. But they do make something for it to adhere to plastic and flex as plastic flexes and contracts with heat and cold. That’s why in the 80s when plastic bumpers were the common thing from chrome bumpers the paint flakes off A LOT. Of them. That’s why. No flex.
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06-19-2018, 11:45 PM | #25 | |
Drives: 14ss Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: metrpolis il
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06-20-2018, 12:11 AM | #26 | ||
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Drives: 2013 Camaro 2SS/RS & 2006 Corvette Join Date: Jul 2015
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Personally, I think it's great you want learn and that your dad is willing to teach you. To accomplish what you want, I recommend finding a good local body shop that does a lot of collision & body work. Ask them to do a color match to your car and if they'll sell a quart or so; your dad should know how much he'll need. If they subcontract out to a paint shop (some do their own, some don't), ask them what shop they use and go there. A good shop should be able to match your paint almost exactly, regardless if it's metallic or not. In most cases when these shops do a collision repair, they don't repaint the entire vehicle, they only paint the repaired sections and blend the new paint into the old … when this is done properly by a good shop, you can't tell the car has ever been repaired.
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06-20-2018, 12:17 PM | #27 | |
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06-20-2018, 12:49 PM | #28 |
I took my paint code to a autobody supply store and they mixed up a pint of PPG that was more than enough to paint my ground effects plus new rear spoiler. I can't tell any difference from the original paint, (6 yrs old). We used a reducer and finished with a heavy clear coat.
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