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Old 06-19-2018, 02:56 PM   #15
Mr_Draco


 
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Keep in mind most likely any paint you buy won't be a 100% match. Your car is 8 years old. It's had 8 years worth of sun exposure which has caused the paint to fade some. Even the best paint you buy now will match what the paint looked like 8 years ago.

Not to mention you're dealing with a metallic paint and that adds a whole new headache to the process.
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Old 06-19-2018, 03:25 PM   #16
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Keep in mind most likely any paint you buy won't be a 100% match. Your car is 8 years old. It's had 8 years worth of sun exposure which has caused the paint to fade some. Even the best paint you buy now will match what the paint looked like 8 years ago.

Not to mention you're dealing with a metallic paint and that adds a whole new headache to the process.
I figured at this point, nothing would would be 100% match. I am hoping because they are separate pieces at different angles, it won't be terribly noticeable. Luckily, while older, the car only has 21k on it, and I believe that it was mainly stored inside out of the sun (has for sure been the last year that I have owned it). So it shouldn't have had horrible fading.

I'm just looking for some good brands so I don't have to worry about issues with it down the road. I am looking to get a heritage grille too, and at least it's paint would match the ground effects if I do it all at once.
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Old 06-19-2018, 03:53 PM   #17
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Like I stated previously, I would go with a slightly different shade of blue as a contrast. It would look good and you wont have to stress about the color matching 100%.

Personally, I would not paint the grill the same color, but that's me.
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Old 06-19-2018, 03:57 PM   #18
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I appreciate the input. But the entire point of this is to not have 2 different colors between the body and the ground effects. I saw another ABM get effects painted recently and his turned out good. Not 100% match but damn close. Not many would notice.

And I don't know why I would get the heritage grille and do anything but the blue to match. The whole reason I like them is because they appear to make the grille in the middle smaller and the rest blend into the car.

Different strokes, I guess
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Old 06-19-2018, 04:48 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by go_go_gadget88 View Post
I figured at this point, nothing would would be 100% match. I am hoping because they are separate pieces at different angles, it won't be terribly noticeable. Luckily, while older, the car only has 21k on it, and I believe that it was mainly stored inside out of the sun (has for sure been the last year that I have owned it). So it shouldn't have had horrible fading.

I'm just looking for some good brands so I don't have to worry about issues with it down the road. I am looking to get a heritage grille too, and at least it's paint would match the ground effects if I do it all at once.
You might have a side cast issue. That's when the paint shade looks a little different from certain angles. This is more noticeable on metallic colors like your car. If you had a solid color, it would be much easier.

Do realize there can be up to 7-8 variations of a particular color. Just because you know the color code, doesn't mean it's going to "match".

It seems like you still want the easy way out. So, I guess your parts won't be a perfect match. That's okay though. Someone like me will be able to tell, but maybe you won't. Good luck!
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Old 06-19-2018, 05:19 PM   #20
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I'm pretty picky on paint matching. It drives me crazy when you see a car going down the road and you can see halfway down the door where they blended it. I've painted several cars, but like your dad they've been complete paint jobs so wasn't trying to match. I bought my car needing a hood and bumper from a deer. It's ashen gray and I was pretty terrified the paint wasn't going to match. I used dupont chromabase, or cromax I guess its called now. It matched perfect. I had a buddy that works at a body shop guide me with blending the tops of the fenders and front edge just to be on the safe side, but it really turned out great. I had practiced on the old hood just spraying a corner and I couldn't believe how well it matched. I have painted whole cars with nason before and they turned out good, but the paint supply said if was trying to match use the cromax, he showed me the nason had maybe 5or6 pigments, and the cromax had 9or10. I don't really think the flex agent is required anymore with paints, I havn't used them on anything I've done, and buddy said they don't at the shop either.
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Old 06-19-2018, 06:04 PM   #21
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I have used a few spray cans from this place, and they can put it in gallons if needed for you.

http://www.automotivetouchup.com/tou...10/all-models/
Just so people can see what I'm talking about, here's pics of the front and rear where some touchup was done using that brand. I've been painting things for 50 years so I know basically how it is done. This wasn't due to being put on wrong. I've used no coatings or chemicals on top of it either. That's not dirt, except the black bug dots to the right, that's how bad it really looks. The splotchy and yellowing. It looked better but with mismatched color on first application, this is how badly it aged after a couple years. I was trying to just blend in a few scratches without using fillers and sanding.
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Old 06-19-2018, 06:19 PM   #22
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It seems like you still want the easy way out. So, I guess your parts won't be a perfect match. That's okay though. Someone like me will be able to tell, but maybe you won't. Good luck!

So I want to put in the effort to learn a new skill and try doing this (mostly) by myself, asking questions so that I can get the best results...and that's the EASY way out?

Right.. ok, maybe I came to the wrong place. I would have assumed the easy way was dropping it off at the body shop and writing a check. I thought one could order good paints that would be a pretty close match to factory.
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Old 06-19-2018, 06:40 PM   #23
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^ You can go to the autoparts store or walmart and get duplicolor cans which would match ok if you get your color code, for separate parts and not stand out so much. I used it on my heritage grill. As people stated don't expect a perfect match but it might be close enough for you too.
I thought I was getting something with a more perfect match and higher quality when I went with the automotivetouchup.com brand but you see how that turned out for me on two cars I tried it on.

Last edited by silversleeper; 06-20-2018 at 01:42 AM.
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Old 06-19-2018, 08:57 PM   #24
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When I ordered their paint it did not match at all. One was in a shade of gold and the other silver.
To make matters worse I ordered their clear which turned super yellow after a year.
UV rays will yellow ANY polyurethane clear to some extent.

Plastic will NEVER match perfectly with a car. You think it does? Go to the any dealership of your choice and look at the difference between plastic and panels painted the same color on new cars. And you’re going to try matching it on a 10yr old car? Good luck. Just know it won’t match perfectly. You’ll notice a difference.and yes. You need a flexible plastic agent in sealer or paint. I forget it’s been awhile. But they do make something for it to adhere to plastic and flex as plastic flexes and contracts with heat and cold. That’s why in the 80s when plastic bumpers were the common thing from chrome bumpers the paint flakes off A LOT. Of them. That’s why. No flex.
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Old 06-19-2018, 11:45 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by go_go_gadget88 View Post
So I want to put in the effort to learn a new skill and try doing this (mostly) by myself, asking questions so that I can get the best results...and that's the EASY way out?

Right.. ok, maybe I came to the wrong place. I would have assumed the easy way was dropping it off at the body shop and writing a check. I thought one could order good paints that would be a pretty close match to factory.
I say give it a try, it’s prob going to run you about $160 for a quart of Cromax base mixed to your vin, see if your Dad has some clear left over from one of his projects, or pick up a quart of nason select clear with activator, will be about $50, 465-00 I think is what I usually use. You’ll also need some reducer, few other odds/ends. If the parts are factory primed, scuff them up and spray them. I think you’ll really be suprised in the results. Being down low on the car you’re not going to notice imperfections or if it’s not a perfect match like you would on the hood or fender.
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Old 06-20-2018, 12:11 AM   #26
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After speaking with my dad recently about my wishes to have my ground effects painted to match the body color, he has offered to paint them/start showing me how to lay down automotive paint. He stripped his old truck down about a year ago and repainted that entire thing. It turned out amazing, so I am not worried about the actual painting process being an issue.

However, he did stress that I need to find a matched paint, as he wasn't comfortable mixing up anything to match. My question is, what have other people on here used brand-wise that has come out matching the factory paint well? My car is a 2010 camaro with Aqua Blue Metallic paint. Don't need a lot of paint, so I am not really concerned with price. I just want them to match as good as possible!

Also, since these are plastic pieces....do we need to get any kind of flexing agent to mix in to keep it from cracking? Or is this typically not an issue since these pieces don't move much?


Thanks in advance!
Quote:
Originally Posted by go_go_gadget88 View Post
So I want to put in the effort to learn a new skill and try doing this (mostly) by myself, asking questions so that I can get the best results...and that's the EASY way out?

Right.. ok, maybe I came to the wrong place. I would have assumed the easy way was dropping it off at the body shop and writing a check. I thought one could order good paints that would be a pretty close match to factory.

Personally, I think it's great you want learn and that your dad is willing to teach you.

To accomplish what you want, I recommend finding a good local body shop that does a lot of collision & body work. Ask them to do a color match to your car and if they'll sell a quart or so; your dad should know how much he'll need. If they subcontract out to a paint shop (some do their own, some don't), ask them what shop they use and go there. A good shop should be able to match your paint almost exactly, regardless if it's metallic or not. In most cases when these shops do a collision repair, they don't repaint the entire vehicle, they only paint the repaired sections and blend the new paint into the old … when this is done properly by a good shop, you can't tell the car has ever been repaired.
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Old 06-20-2018, 12:17 PM   #27
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Personally, I think it's great you want learn and that your dad is willing to teach you.

To accomplish what you want, I recommend finding a good local body shop that does a lot of collision & body work. Ask them to do a color match to your car and if they'll sell a quart or so; your dad should know how much he'll need. If they subcontract out to a paint shop (some do their own, some don't), ask them what shop they use and go there. A good shop should be able to match your paint almost exactly, regardless if it's metallic or not. In most cases when these shops do a collision repair, they don't repaint the entire vehicle, they only paint the repaired sections and blend the new paint into the old … when this is done properly by a good shop, you can't tell the car has ever been repaired.
I could. Why? Because no shop that does insurance repairs, especially a DRP, is going to take the time and effort to dial in the color properly.
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Old 06-20-2018, 12:49 PM   #28
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I took my paint code to a autobody supply store and they mixed up a pint of PPG that was more than enough to paint my ground effects plus new rear spoiler. I can't tell any difference from the original paint, (6 yrs old). We used a reducer and finished with a heavy clear coat.
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