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Old 06-05-2015, 10:35 PM   #15
forklord

 
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Sorry ive been on so many threads about multiple things and lots of pms. Forgot about this one. So the speed shop checked everything and it looks good. Mantic said there shouldnt really be any possible install error. Pretty straight forward. After teading multiple threads with similar issues even with stock clutches, it seems the answer is the ram clutch pedal adjuster. Im on my phone so i wont bother linking. Just google camaro5 ram clutch and youll find it. They pretty much guaranteed itll resolve the issue other than the general difference to be expected with this type of heavy duty clutch. Ill report back next week.
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2010 2SS- 562whp/634wtq 12 psi on3 turbo 78mm magnum /w aem truboost, pat g cam, Kooks 3" catback, Factory Rep 41s with 285/315 20" michelin PSS, Snow Meth, Hex Hood Vents, ZL1 FP & ADM FPCM /w JMS BAP, ID 850s, DSS lvl 4 axles & aluminum 1 piece D/S, Total Pro BMR bushings, fe4 sways, toe rods & trailing arms, Prothane engine mounts, MGW shifter, eaton true trac, mantic 9000 clutch, idealg master cylinder, JDP clutch oil reservoir, ram clutch pedal adjust, Tick clutch & bleed lines, Dewitts Rad
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Old 06-06-2015, 01:28 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by forklord View Post
Sorry ive been on so many threads about multiple things and lots of pms. Forgot about this one. So the speed shop checked everything and it looks good. Mantic said there shouldnt really be any possible install error. Pretty straight forward. After teading multiple threads with similar issues even with stock clutches, it seems the answer is the ram clutch pedal adjuster. Im on my phone so i wont bother linking. Just google camaro5 ram clutch and youll find it. They pretty much guaranteed itll resolve the issue other than the general difference to be expected with this type of heavy duty clutch. Ill report back next week.
Have you had a chance to drive it yet to verify that it fixes the issue?
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Old 06-07-2015, 09:52 AM   #17
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No the tranny is still out and waiting on ram kit to arrive. Doing a new rear main seal, monster slave cylinder thingy and arp crank pulley bolt in the mean time.
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2010 2SS- 562whp/634wtq 12 psi on3 turbo 78mm magnum /w aem truboost, pat g cam, Kooks 3" catback, Factory Rep 41s with 285/315 20" michelin PSS, Snow Meth, Hex Hood Vents, ZL1 FP & ADM FPCM /w JMS BAP, ID 850s, DSS lvl 4 axles & aluminum 1 piece D/S, Total Pro BMR bushings, fe4 sways, toe rods & trailing arms, Prothane engine mounts, MGW shifter, eaton true trac, mantic 9000 clutch, idealg master cylinder, JDP clutch oil reservoir, ram clutch pedal adjust, Tick clutch & bleed lines, Dewitts Rad
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Old 06-16-2015, 09:16 PM   #18
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just got the car back. the ram clutch adjustor worked!! way better. clutch pedal is still stiffer than stock but eases in way better. no more chatter or bucking. love it!

did a flush with wilwood fluid, ram adjustor, monster clutch billet release bearing support.

edit: after driving around with an updated tune for a bit its not quite as good as i originally thought. still helped. but 1500 $ later....its still a little choppy but more manageable. i have this weird ticking sound coming out of the shifter/ tunnel when im at a stop in neutral with the pedal out. as soon as i press it it goes away. the squeak my pedal made is now gone tho. theres something going on here but i dont know what. im def not spending any more money on it. it still makes some noise once in a while shifting in other gears. little chatter or slap here and there. it may be that im not used to driving a cammed car as well, even tho the cam is nothing crazy. it hasnt shit the bed yet so it cant be anything too serious or something would have went kaboom by now i guess? seems like the best option is to keep building it as a dedicated track car and buy a "2017 zl1" or whatever... keep it mostly stock for my street ride. no more headaches!!
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2010 2SS- 562whp/634wtq 12 psi on3 turbo 78mm magnum /w aem truboost, pat g cam, Kooks 3" catback, Factory Rep 41s with 285/315 20" michelin PSS, Snow Meth, Hex Hood Vents, ZL1 FP & ADM FPCM /w JMS BAP, ID 850s, DSS lvl 4 axles & aluminum 1 piece D/S, Total Pro BMR bushings, fe4 sways, toe rods & trailing arms, Prothane engine mounts, MGW shifter, eaton true trac, mantic 9000 clutch, idealg master cylinder, JDP clutch oil reservoir, ram clutch pedal adjust, Tick clutch & bleed lines, Dewitts Rad

Last edited by forklord; 06-17-2015 at 01:07 AM.
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Old 07-06-2015, 09:46 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by forklord View Post
just got the car back. the ram clutch adjustor worked!! way better. clutch pedal is still stiffer than stock but eases in way better. no more chatter or bucking. love it!

did a flush with wilwood fluid, ram adjustor, monster clutch billet release bearing support.

edit: after driving around with an updated tune for a bit its not quite as good as i originally thought. still helped. but 1500 $ later....its still a little choppy but more manageable. i have this weird ticking sound coming out of the shifter/ tunnel when im at a stop in neutral with the pedal out. as soon as i press it it goes away. the squeak my pedal made is now gone tho. theres something going on here but i dont know what. im def not spending any more money on it. it still makes some noise once in a while shifting in other gears. little chatter or slap here and there. it may be that im not used to driving a cammed car as well, even tho the cam is nothing crazy. it hasnt shit the bed yet so it cant be anything too serious or something would have went kaboom by now i guess? seems like the best option is to keep building it as a dedicated track car and buy a "2017 zl1" or whatever... keep it mostly stock for my street ride. no more headaches!!
Still not happy with it or has your oppinion changed? I appreciate these updates. Still not sure if this is what I need to do.
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Old 07-06-2015, 02:54 PM   #20
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Ive gotten used to the difference now. Certainly better. I think im expecting too much out a heavy duty clutch. Probly shoulda got a less intense clutch. I think the weight savings in the driveline also play a part maybe?For the price and ease of installation id give it a shot if i was you.
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2010 2SS- 562whp/634wtq 12 psi on3 turbo 78mm magnum /w aem truboost, pat g cam, Kooks 3" catback, Factory Rep 41s with 285/315 20" michelin PSS, Snow Meth, Hex Hood Vents, ZL1 FP & ADM FPCM /w JMS BAP, ID 850s, DSS lvl 4 axles & aluminum 1 piece D/S, Total Pro BMR bushings, fe4 sways, toe rods & trailing arms, Prothane engine mounts, MGW shifter, eaton true trac, mantic 9000 clutch, idealg master cylinder, JDP clutch oil reservoir, ram clutch pedal adjust, Tick clutch & bleed lines, Dewitts Rad
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Old 04-26-2016, 07:22 PM   #21
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Have you had it on the track yet. I'm about ready to pull the trigger on one now.
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Old 04-29-2016, 10:25 AM   #22
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Have you had it on the track yet. I'm about ready to pull the trigger on one now.
Mine does great at Bandimere with DRs. If you like to launch while slipping or just dumping it seems this clutch loves it either way.
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Old 04-29-2016, 10:55 AM   #23
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Mine does great at Bandimere with DRs. If you like to launch while slipping or just dumping it seems this clutch loves it either way.
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Old 04-29-2016, 09:22 PM   #24
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Mine does great at Bandimere with DRs. If you like to launch while slipping or just dumping it seems this clutch loves it either way.
Mine did great at 800whp, whats your power level? I am going to turn up my boost, but I am of the understanding that its only good for 1000 foot pounds of torque.
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Old 05-03-2016, 03:04 PM   #25
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Mine did great at 800whp, whats your power level? I am going to turn up my boost, but I am of the understanding that its only good for 1000 foot pounds of torque.
Just shy of 800 whp and 800 wtq corrected, but the altitude sure takes plenty of power. My guess is I'm actually putting around 600 hp and similar tq to the wheels.
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