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Old 09-14-2011, 06:00 PM   #43
HufferSS
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Originally Posted by GMRULZ View Post
This is very true, my curve is extremely flat and I run 10.99@125.40 w/ only 536rwhp peak. Its all about power under the curve. There are a lot of 600rwhp Camaro`s on here who can`t get out of the 11`s...
To be fair it could be a traction issue rather than a curve issue.
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Old 09-14-2011, 08:32 PM   #44
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To be fair it could be a traction issue rather than a curve issue.
There is that reason for some no doubt. But there are cars /w a cam swap and a cetri style blower that make great mph, but don`t seem to run any quicker w/ over 100 more hp w/ traction. It takes a fairly good sized stall or steep gear to make up for the less hp under the curve.. ie.. peaky graph.
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2010 SS L99, 536rwhp 10.843@126.72. Whipple Supercharger stock pulley, ARH 1 7/8 longtubes w/ catted xpipe, magnaflow 3" mufflers, ADM Race CAI, 3:70 gears, lightweight wheels and nitto drag radials. Stock internal L99, stock converter.

Bolt on best before blower 12.22@113.29 w/ nothing but ARH headers, catted x-pipe, ADM CAI and a tune on stock Pzero`s!

Other car 2008 C6 Ls3, z51, A6, Npp Exhaust, best bonestock pass 11.80@118.82, Number 2 on the Corvette Forums Bonestock fastest list..
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Old 09-14-2011, 08:49 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GMRULZ View Post
This is very true, my curve is extremely flat and I run 10.99@125.40 w/ only 536rwhp peak. Its all about power under the curve. There are a lot of 600rwhp Camaro`s on here who can`t get out of the 11`s...
Wow, that is amazing! Just like music to my ears my friend! You have a damn good L99!
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**Result**: 465rwhp/ 447rwtq. Satisfied.
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Old 09-14-2011, 09:00 PM   #46
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Originally Posted by Mr CLuTcH View Post
Wow, that is amazing! Just like music to my ears my friend! You have a damn good L99!

Thanks man! hoping to make it 10.7`s this fall w/ the same hp. Have gears and lightweight wheels tires since the 10.99 pass. A smal 2600 stall over the winter and I`m going to make a run for the stock internal L99 record of 10.55.
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2010 SS L99, 536rwhp 10.843@126.72. Whipple Supercharger stock pulley, ARH 1 7/8 longtubes w/ catted xpipe, magnaflow 3" mufflers, ADM Race CAI, 3:70 gears, lightweight wheels and nitto drag radials. Stock internal L99, stock converter.

Bolt on best before blower 12.22@113.29 w/ nothing but ARH headers, catted x-pipe, ADM CAI and a tune on stock Pzero`s!

Other car 2008 C6 Ls3, z51, A6, Npp Exhaust, best bonestock pass 11.80@118.82, Number 2 on the Corvette Forums Bonestock fastest list..
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Old 09-14-2011, 10:19 PM   #47
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Originally Posted by GMRULZ View Post
Thanks man! hoping to make it 10.7`s this fall w/ the same hp. Have gears and lightweight wheels tires since the 10.99 pass. A smal 2600 stall over the winter and I`m going to make a run for the stock internal L99 record of 10.55.
WOW. Your really showing the build and performance potential of our "inferior" L99's. Bad-a**! I'm still shocked that you got into the 10s with just 536rwhp, when I know guys with like 700hp to the wheels and can't break into the 11s. lol. I guess it's all about your setup and how you apply it.

Hey do you have any good ideas for typical L99 owners who are into modifying they're setup? My car for instance has the basics before FI, and I did have gears in mind but just don't know what to go with. 3.73? 4.10? But I would like a car that is geared for top end speed, but won't fall short in between. I'm no technical guy as far as all of that goes, but I'm just at a stand still right now. I want to be able to come out of a dig strong without burning smoke, but I also want top end power.

Man, I sure hope you have a video of your run when you hit 10.5....that would be awesome to watch! Team L99! lol
__________________
S.I.M. SS(L99):
*American Racing Headers (LT)
*Magnaflow cat-back competition exhaust
*K&N typhoon CAI
*Aggressive cam.
*Tune
**Result**: 465rwhp/ 447rwtq. Satisfied.
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Old 09-14-2011, 11:15 PM   #48
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I own an '11 5.0 and will be buying a new Camaro SS sometime between now and spring. I like all the muscle cars and currently own a '67 RS and '73 Z-28 and my wife drives a '10 Challenger R/T. We have a few different muscle cars and enjoy them all. About a month ago I ran a new LS-3 SS with my GT. My GT is an A6 with 3.15 gear and I have a tune, CAI, aluminum D-shaft and Borla mufflers as mods. He had a set of BBK long tubes and high flow cat pipe(no tune though) as his mods. We were both on stock radials. Out of the hole I would pull him a couple of cars but as we neared the end of the quarter I could see him slowly making up ground in my side mirror. He did not catch me in the quarter but if he could have launched his car better he would probably have a slight advantage and put a car or so on me. I have driven the M6 Camaro and the M6 Mustang and I did not like the 6 spd manual in the Mustang at all. The way it is geared has you shifting into 5th to finish the quarter; personally I didn't care for it. The automatic felt much better and is definitely easier to launch. With the tune it shifts at 7,000rpm. The Camaro was the opposite; I preferred the manual trans over the automatic and that is what I am going to get when I order it. I felt the gear spacing in the M6 Camaro was better all around compared to the Mustang with a M6. I took my Mustang to the track bone stock and ran a pair of 13.08's at 109.5mph for the sake of comparison. Have not been back yet to see what the mods did. I'm guessing it will go 12.50's if I get a decent leave. Will find out very soon. I agree with most of the guys on the dyno thing. Good info to have but the track is the last word. I definitely can't wait to get the Camaro. My wife and I both were impressed with it when we test drove it(Thanks Becky!) and know there won't be any regrets. Sorry for the long post.
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Old 09-15-2011, 02:21 AM   #49
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Originally Posted by GMRULZ View Post
This is very true, my curve is extremely flat and I run 10.99@125.40 w/ only 536rwhp peak. Its all about power under the curve. There are a lot of 600rwhp Camaro`s on here who can`t get out of the 11`s...
Hell get out of the 11's I see a lot that cant even get in lol.
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Old 09-15-2011, 11:30 AM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr CLuTcH View Post
WOW. Your really showing the build and performance potential of our "inferior" L99's. Bad-a**! I'm still shocked that you got into the 10s with just 536rwhp, when I know guys with like 700hp to the wheels and can't break into the 11s. lol. I guess it's all about your setup and how you apply it.

Hey do you have any good ideas for typical L99 owners who are into modifying they're setup? My car for instance has the basics before FI, and I did have gears in mind but just don't know what to go with. 3.73? 4.10? But I would like a car that is geared for top end speed, but won't fall short in between. I'm no technical guy as far as all of that goes, but I'm just at a stand still right now. I want to be able to come out of a dig strong without burning smoke, but I also want top end power.

Man, I sure hope you have a video of your run when you hit 10.5....that would be awesome to watch! Team L99! lol
It is definetly all about the setup.I use the KISS method. Keep it simple stupid...Lol.. Less sometimes is more. You might have trouble convincing a girl of that, but it works w/ cars...

It is very much about power under the curve and being able to put it down. If you are going FI I would not go more than 3:55 w/ the gears unless you can rev it ie.. have changed out the stock afm lifters. I am shifting right where the 1/4 finish is now and I have the shift point bumped up in 4th to make it there at 125mph. If you have changed the lifters or plan to you can use the 3:70`s or 3:73`s but there is the potential as you make more power and run more mph to possible need less gear again and back to the 3:55`s or 3:45`s despite being able to shift at a higher rpm w/ the non afm lifters. So it depends on your plan really as far as gears go. If you plan on a roots/screw style blower go w/ a 2600 stall, centri/ turbo go w/ a 3200 stall.

As far as a bolt-on L99 goes, you need 3 things to put down great times compared to stock, a good CAI, long tubes w/ x-pipe and a good tune. I went 12.22@113 w/ stock tires and no other mods. Another thing is keep the car as light as possible, I wouldn`t strip it but, I ordered mine w/ out the sunroof or ground effects to keep it as light as possible. Don`t run w/ any more fuel than you need, boosted around 1/2 tank, NA 1/4 tank or less.

Lighter wheels and tires are a must, you not only lose weight but you lose reciprocating mass which is a big deal. If you are NA and do a good sized cam be sure to run a decently big stall to put you in your power band and know someone who can tune it, big stalls are funny to tune on these cars.

Run in good cool air at a track that does a good job of prep. Don`t start throwing suspension mods on it til you see if you need them or not. I`m still 100% stock suspension. Squats and goes.. Thats about all I can think of right now.
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2010 SS L99, 536rwhp 10.843@126.72. Whipple Supercharger stock pulley, ARH 1 7/8 longtubes w/ catted xpipe, magnaflow 3" mufflers, ADM Race CAI, 3:70 gears, lightweight wheels and nitto drag radials. Stock internal L99, stock converter.

Bolt on best before blower 12.22@113.29 w/ nothing but ARH headers, catted x-pipe, ADM CAI and a tune on stock Pzero`s!

Other car 2008 C6 Ls3, z51, A6, Npp Exhaust, best bonestock pass 11.80@118.82, Number 2 on the Corvette Forums Bonestock fastest list..
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Old 09-15-2011, 12:52 PM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GMRULZ View Post
It is definetly all about the setup.I use the KISS method. Keep it simple stupid...Lol.. Less sometimes is more. You might have trouble convincing a girl of that, but it works w/ cars...

It is very much about power under the curve and being able to put it down. If you are going FI I would not go more than 3:55 w/ the gears unless you can rev it ie.. have changed out the stock afm lifters. I am shifting right where the 1/4 finish is now and I have the shift point bumped up in 4th to make it there at 125mph. If you have changed the lifters or plan to you can use the 3:70`s or 3:73`s but there is the potential as you make more power and run more mph to possible need less gear again and back to the 3:55`s or 3:45`s despite being able to shift at a higher rpm w/ the non afm lifters. So it depends on your plan really as far as gears go. If you plan on a roots/screw style blower go w/ a 2600 stall, centri/ turbo go w/ a 3200 stall.

As far as a bolt-on L99 goes, you need 3 things to put down great times compared to stock, a good CAI, long tubes w/ x-pipe and a good tune. I went 12.22@113 w/ stock tires and no other mods. Another thing is keep the car as light as possible, I wouldn`t strip it but, I ordered mine w/ out the sunroof or ground effects to keep it as light as possible. Don`t run w/ any more fuel than you need, boosted around 1/2 tank, NA 1/4 tank or less.

Lighter wheels and tires are a must, you not only lose weight but you lose reciprocating mass which is a big deal. If you are NA and do a good sized cam be sure to run a decently big stall to put you in your power band and know someone who can tune it, big stalls are funny to tune on these cars.

Run in good cool air at a track that does a good job of prep. Don`t start throwing suspension mods on it til you see if you need them or not. I`m still 100% stock suspension. Squats and goes.. Thats about all I can think of right now.
Nice write up!
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Old 09-15-2011, 01:43 PM   #52
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Originally Posted by 1967RS427 View Post
I have driven the M6 Camaro and the M6 Mustang and I did not like the 6 spd manual in the Mustang at all. The way it is geared has you shifting into 5th to finish the quarter; personally I didn't care for it.
I'm the same way with muscle cars.....I love them all, I had a clean ass red/black 67 Camaro w/ stalled ZZ4 right out of HS until I lost in in a divorce.

Only un-tuned 3.73 owners have to shift into 5th gear before the finish.

The 3.31 and 3.55 geared manuals finish in 4th and so do tuned 3.73 owners due to raising the redline to 7,200rpm.

The quickest stock manual is running 3.31's I believe but the quickest tune only manual is running the 3.73's for the reasons above.

Auto owners are are getting their best ET's and 60 foots without loading the converter, the best way is to just leave the line right off idle and it will hook and go.

You are probably also leaving two to three tenths on the table by not having a custom dyno tune not to mention most canned tunes have dangerous timing tables due to the lack of knowledge for the time. My tuner is making almost 20whp over Evo's canned tune on a customers bolt on 5.0L they brought in.

http://www.svtperformance.com/forums...tion-tune.html

Last edited by BigDan; 09-15-2011 at 02:02 PM.
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Old 09-15-2011, 08:29 PM   #53
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Dan, you are correct on the gearing and when the rpm limit is raised; the one I drove was a 3.73 stick. I still didn't care for it; The Camaro just felt better spaced through the gears to me. I have the Bama tune in my '11. No problems so far but I'm not arguing against a dyno tune also. I had my '03 Cobra dyno tuned and it has been 8 years with zero failures so that says something for sure. When I spoke with the Bama folks I told them I wanted everything conservative. I don't want my car running on the edge. We have 93 octane premium all over here so that helps also. I read about people having issues with the Lund tunes in a couple of blogs. They appear to work well but are probably more aggressive. For the Camaro I have a place near here called Vector Motorsports. He specializes in late model GM cars/trucks. My daily driver is a '07 TrailBlazer SS. He did a tune in that at 8,000 miles; the truck has 54,000 on it now and has never missed a beat. His tune made a noticeable difference(especially on top end). If I decide to tune the Camaro I would have him do it.
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