Aeromotive A1000 Stealth Fuel System Issues

[incon3037r]

After installing my F-1D on my G8 and driving it for only two days, my car started experiencing cavitation and shutting down. The fuel rails were extremely hot to the touch and would not start until cooling off for at least an hour or so. I had it towed to the shop to diagnose the fuel problems. Hooked up a fuel pressure gauge and it would hit a max of 5psi then drop to 0. Drop the tank to find this on my Stealth A1000


After sending it back for a new pump and adding the pump speed controller and MSD tach adapter. We also had to figure out the wiring for the tach adapter, because Aeromotive's directions were printed wrong and they referred us to MSD, who also did not have a clue and tried to sell me another model tach adapter. After the wiring was figured out, the car has been running just fine and staying cool. Im still waiting to see what happens. If it this one goes, I plan on buying the Squash setup.

[CyberPredator]

Originally Posted by speedster

Have Aeromotive A1000 and Eliminator on multiple cars with lots of pressure and use. All NRE dyno testing done on 100's of engines > 1000 hp using these pumps with no failure yet. Sufficient wiring and plumbing are very important. A friends Impala has 70,000+ miles on his original A1000.

Bummer that Camaro5 people have had issues.

I also know that the corvette forums are having alot of issues with the eliminator. They mostly recommend the stealth.

[pyr0b0y]

Originally Posted by SRT10KLLR

Are you using the existing fuel pump wiring to run the Aero or did you use some sort of hot wire kit? If not already doing so I would run the pump right off the alternator for more consistent power.

I have the pump hooked up to a relay, haven't thought about the alternator, what voltage is your battery at when you're driving? Does it suck a lot of juice?

Originally Posted by camarostar2010

Dayum Pyro...sorry to here. I am getting "squashed" myself soon. I ran from the aero set up...too many stories. I hope you get this sorted out bro.

I did my research and found mixed stories, my shop got a good price on aeromotive because they were a WD for them.

Originally Posted by Padre

I have the Aeromotive Stealth and have not had any voltage or pressure problems, more or less... I also do not have the volt regulator.

The problem I do have is an apparent fuel cut in some circumstances. We believe it is related to one or both of these things:

1) Low fuel level. Without a full tank, there is less pressure to the pump. The Stealth does not use the factory pickup (as I understand it). It happens to me under hard acceleration (launching at the track), so it could also be low fuel sloshing around.

2) Fuel boiling. Theory is that without the volt regulator, the returned fuel gets hot and once it gets to a certain level, the hot fuel causes low pressure. My solution has been to keep the tank full since it's easier to heat up less fuel in the tank.

I am worried about the life of the pump as well and have plans to order the volt regulator with the hope that it will also address the apparent heated fuel problem.

Either way, for you, have you noted the fuel level when this occurs and is it a factor for you?

Padre

It was just above a 1/4 tank. We did 3 or 4 pulls and the MAF sensor would max out a 10k Hz, and then we started logging fuel pressure and found it was doing fine up to about 5k, then would drop dramatically. I'm thinking about getting a fuel pressure pressure gauge, so I'll see if running on a full tank makes a difference. I've not heard about fuel boiling. The thing that doesn't make sense, it is loses pressure past a certain rpm, rather than across the board.

Originally Posted by BullF-16

I have the entire Aeromotive Stealt setup sitting at home waiting for my motor. I will be running the Stealth eliminator pump in tank return style with -10 feed and -8 return lines. I also ordered the billet fuel controller to keep the pump speed down at lower rpms.

I did a bunch of research on this setup on Corvetteforums and LS1tech and could not find any negative information. I guess we will see.

I did the same and got lots of positive reviews, but my stealth pump went out pretty fast....

Originally Posted by speedster

Have Aeromotive A1000 and Eliminator on multiple cars with lots of pressure and use. All NRE dyno testing done on 100's of engines > 1000 hp using these pumps with no failure yet. Sufficient wiring and plumbing are very important. A friends Impala has 70,000+ miles on his original A1000.

Bummer that Camaro5 people have had issues.

I'm hoping it's something simple like what Padre brought out. Hell, I'm hoping it might be that the fuel filter is clogged (although that wouldn't make sense why pressure would drop only above 5k rpms. The wiring seemed to be sufficient, all plumbing is -8AN, which aeromotive recommended.

I did find out I can access the fuel pump wiring from the rear passenger seat, so i'll see what kind of voltage reading im getting. If its constant voltage, hopefully its just the filter.

Thanks for all the replies guys, give me some things to think about and test!

[Padre]

Originally Posted by pyr0b0y

I've not heard about fuel boiling. The thing that doesn't make sense, it is loses pressure past a certain rpm, rather than across the board.

The term for what I called fuel boiling is cavitation.
http://fuelab.com/customer-support/2...ing-cavitation
http://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-ind...plication.html

I would recommend trying it with a full tank (the fuel pump can't heat the whole tank too much), adding an inline fuel cooler, and/or adding the volt regulator from Aeromotive. In that order. That's what I'm going to do.

BTW, cavitation can kill a fuel pump (but not always), which is maybe why some guys have seen failures.

Good luck, Padre

[pyr0b0y]

Originally Posted by Padre

The term for what I called fuel boiling is cavitation.
http://fuelab.com/customer-support/2...ing-cavitation
http://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-ind...plication.html

I would recommend trying it with a full tank (the fuel pump can't heat the whole tank too much), adding an inline fuel cooler, and/or adding the volt regulator from Aeromotive. In that order. That's what I'm going to do.

BTW, cavitation can kill a fuel pump (but not always), which is maybe why some guys have seen failures.

Good luck, Padre

Right now, i just have a regulator, but do not the the electronic voltage controller hooked up. I try and not run my tank below 1/4.

[SRT10KLLR]

Originally Posted by pyr0b0y

I have the pump hooked up to a relay, haven't thought about the alternator, what voltage is your battery at when you're driving? Does it suck a lot of juice?

I haven't looked but I am sure it gets stressed from the nitrous, boost controller, methanol and all the other shit drawing power.

Make sure it is wired by itself and not in any way hooked to the stock wiring. This way you know it is getting all the power it needs and that somehow your ECM is trying to limit power to the pumps like some sort of limiter.

[camarostar2010]

the more I look at this thread the better I feel i didnt jump on the aero...if it has all these variables, and confusing stuff...I am out....I am starting to feel like this is the thread on the ******* grill..just all kinda stories..ughhh.

[speedster]

One more quick thought/tip on these pumps - You MUST use a relay mounted as close to the pump as possible with dedicated wiring. Thinking back on early installs, this caused a lot of headaches when not done. Hope that helps.

[stevieturbo]

Location of the relay is less important than using proper quality wiring.

Does nobody make a setup to run a pair of Bosch 044's or similar ?

They flow very well, and are 100% reliable. And unlike most other pumps, dont fall flat on their face when you the fuel pressure rises.

Garbage... 80 street miles on it and a few track passes, two 9-second passes, most were aborts from traction woes....

Made a single dyno pass last night on my combo, at 6100RPM's it went to ~20psi and crapped the bed. Screwed the regulator all the way down just to see, now the pump even with regulator all the way in makes maybe 40psi tops at idle. I have mine completely isolated with a single relay, running 10ga wire. I've installed probably 200+ of their series pumps in numerous applications (All externals).

Maybe I have a problem with the internal line, right now do not know what went wrong, frankly don't care I'll never use another Aeromotive series internal pump again.

Made 737rwhp through the unlocked 4l60E at 16psi @ 6100rpms.. Would have cracked 800+ on the low boost if I could have made a pass to 72.

[pyr0b0y]

I talked to Jesse from Aeromotive at SEMA. I told him all the issues I was having with the system and he's working with me on troubleshooting the issue, and promised to get me taken care of.

[thebeast916]

Squash is the way I'm going. Last thing I want is something going wrong at wot. Just need to watch the air/fuel gauge more closely now

[ayousef]

Originally Posted by thebeast916

Squash is the way I'm going. Last thing I want is something going wrong at wot. Just need to watch the air/fuel gauge more closely now

isnt that a dual pump set-up? That is also asking for trouble, one pump fails and kaboom goes the motor.

I think most people are having problems due to poorly designed kits/wiring and not having the pump speed controller which is a must with an A1000 or bigger on the street.

To the OP, how much power are you making? The A1000 is rated at 1000bhp with FI on a fuel injected motor per aeromotive's website, that should be around 850rwhp. You could try to set your base fuel pressure at 50psi and do the pull one more time, the pump probably cant flow that much fuel at that high of a pressure.

[thebeast916]

Good thing about his kit is you can choose the pump you want. 1 big pump, 2 big pumps, 2 small pumps, whatever combo you like. Just call him. You run one pump all the time till a certain boost level, with his integrated hardware, fuel pressure regulator. And misc. parts. Over the last few years, he has perfected his setup.

Huge success in the g8 world.