A question for the road course Guys

[rockrau]

It seems I am driving fast enough to need brake cooling ducts. The other week I was on the Pocono North Course with PCA and by the middle of the fourth session on Saturday the front brakes were and are vibrating under braking, the harder I broke the worse it got. I noticed it in the prior sessions,but got progressively worse the faster I went. I decided not run on Sunday because I knew I could not repair it on a Saturday night! So I'm now getting ready to buy the Quantam brake ducts. So, THE QUESTION is, what do I do about the rotors? I'm hoping to do another two day event or two this year. Also I'm hoping to do the CTS-V brake upgrade this winter. So, to the Guys with experience, what do you recommend to get me thru another couple of events? THANKS!

[Rob3D]

You may want to consider correcting your spelling of the word course (from corse) as well as run your entry through a grammar, punctuation and spell checker before being corrected by the grammar and spelling nazis because then it'll be about eight pages of bullshit before you get an answer to your question.

[ICTsccaCamaro]

So for the rotors if you just trying to make them last a few more events you can make sure they aren't under the minimum thickness and have them turned/machined to remove the warpage so you will have smooth stops

[White_SS/RS]

Sounds like pad transfer onto the rotors. It creates high and low friction areas on the disc and makes it feel like vibration. Any pics of the rotors? What are your current pads?

At this point the cure would be to resurface the rotors. You can probably reuse the pads, just hit them with some sand paper. Do a good brake burnishing making sure not to lock up the wheels and let the brakes cool before fully stopping the car.

[rockrau]

Carbotech pads,RP2 front,XP8 rear.

[Synner]

I'm a redneck, I used a palm sander with 36 grit to remove the deposits and kept using the rotors. Can't find anyone to turn them anymore except a machine shop that wanted $175. They worked just fine and I'm not worried about some hypothetical warping way down the road as I'll never have them very long before they're dead anyways.

Even with the ducts you may need to go easier with the braking if you're trying to hold out with the same pads until the full replacement.

[White_SS/RS]

Rockrau, Yeah that looks like pad transfer. Were the rotors fresh when you put the carbotech's on? Or were they used with other pads previously? You could definitely try what Synner posted... Can't hurt... Cheaper, And it would get you by until your upgrade.

[jeremywes]

I agree with uneven pad deposits. I just had the same problem with mine after a very hard track weekend. I had a local shop turn them because the run-out was showing a slight warpage. Cost me 30 bucks. Good luck!

[JusticePete]

OEM rotors with Cobalt Friction XR1 front and XR3 rear pads and your new ducts will provide great braking..

[seddon]

I ran lime rock a while ago did 3 sessions of 10 laps with stock rotors and hawk pads with no issues. I also downshift a lot.

[rockrau]

When replacing the stock rotors, should I go OEM or some other option? I was speaking to a PCA instructor(20yrs) last night who drives a ZO6 on the track reccomended NAPA rotors,said casting #s on the ones he gets for his Vett were same as his OEM.???? I am thinking if I cut them they will warp again

[White_SS/RS]

Its not really warping, but more of uneven deposits of pad material creating high and low friction areas that feel like vibration. Cutting them and then doing a good burnishing proceedure should correct the issue. Your pads should have the burnishing proceedure included or check the manufactures web site.

Buying new ones is up to you but having them turned (cut) wont (or shouldn't) be removing much material to clean up the ones you have.

[JusticePete]

It is never a good idea to cut or turn rotors on a performance automobile, especially when it will be run on a road course. The metal mass of the rotor is directly related to the ability of the rotor to dissipate heat. Normal use reduces mass. Road course use reduces mass rapidly.

The 5th Gen runs hard and fast. It requires brake pads that can handle the heat it generates. Do not buy a brake pad that does not clearly state what the operating temperature range is for the pad. Metal begin to glow at roughly 900 degrees. A Camaro track pad has to be able to handle a MINIMUM of 1,200 degrees.

Replace your rotors with an OEM rotor. HAWK DTC 60 up front and DTC 30 rear will work. Cobalt Friction XR1 front and XR3 rear are the best.

[tw78911sc]

anyone beat this? 2 days at Watkins Glen, two sets of pads, the coloring is not dust, the red powder coat turned to black/brown. Pedal never went soft and turned my fast lap late session 2nd day. Also burned the rubber seals off the pistons. Going to Chevy next week. Rotors are cracked everywhere. Had no issues at other tracks, just too much energy to scrub off into heat. Then the next morning there was a fluid leak from the caliper onto the rotor/wheel.